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03 H6 OBW & 06 WRX Sportwagon
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almost looks like the 'waffle' shaped rubber discs are gone - but yeah, that location is the primary force point for acceleration and braking and needs to be as tight as you can tolerate it. Most folks find the prothane inserts to be too high NVH but, they are a cheap alternative. OEM is kinda high, some folks like myself have used Febest brand bushings from amazon. There may be other alternatives now.

If you are planning to DIY the swap, an impact wrench is gonna be VERY helpful.
 

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01 outback-5sp-UEL-wrx wheels
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I agree with Texan, check the other side for a flat circular somewhat thick rubber disc that has vertical grooves, they should be on both sides of the bushing. You may as well start looking to get replacements. i got mine on from amazon but they had labeled them incorrectly, they looked right in the pics but they did not match up at all. item number 20201Fa060 and 20201fa050. I then turned to ebay and ordered these (M629 Control Arm Bushing For Subaru Baja Forester Outback Legacy FM11 FM12 SET) i was getting an insanely loud knocking sound on heavy braking and knocks from my passenger side when shewould hit uneven surfaces. If i remember correctly, i just took out the 3 bolts holding the bushing to the car (make sure to use an impact gun, they are tight AF) and possibly the other control arm bushing but i dont think i did that one. Next i just used a huge pry bar to get em out and in, by hand would be a bitch. If you go with solid Poly bushings, your ride quality will suffer.
 

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01 outback-5sp-UEL-wrx wheels
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almost looks like the 'waffle' shaped rubber discs are gone - but yeah, that location is the primary force point for acceleration and braking and needs to be as tight as you can tolerate it. Most folks find the prothane inserts to be too high NVH but, they are a cheap alternative. OEM is kinda high, some folks like myself have used Febest brand bushings from amazon. There may be other alternatives now.

If you are planning to DIY the swap, an impact wrench is gonna be VERY helpful.
hey man, real quick. my loud knocking went away after replacing mine, but im still getting a clunk/knock in specific situations. most common, happens everyday, when im turning left into my drive way that has an inch or 2 blunt lip stepup i get a solid clunk on the passenger side ( the side my transverse went out on) ive looked at ball joint, tie rods, trans V bushing, strut tower bolts, shock and strut itself, top hat and nothing seems out of place, loose, leaking. the ball joint and tie rods are new.
 

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03 H6 OBW & 06 WRX Sportwagon
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^^^^ yep - sway bar mounts and endlinks need inspection. I have read endlinks can be bad but tricky to inspect/test.
 

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01 outback-5sp-UEL-wrx wheels
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Clunks on a bump and/or turn is almost certainly sway bar bushing. They can be hard to see that there is an issue. Just replace them.
Thanks guys, yea i did inspect those but as you said, it could be hard to tell. lol i actually have all for endlinks, front/rear in my back seat waiting to install, maybe i should get off my ass...
 

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My tribeca had a clunk going slow over bumps and turns sometimes. Replaced front swaybar bushings because of advice on tribeca board. The old ones looked fine, but the new ones fixed the sound.
 

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01 Outback LL Bean
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There are rubber rings that go in the front and back of the bushings. Those are gone. I suspect they worn out due to the transverse link bushing being bad.

OE bushings are liquid filled and probably a smoother ride. Febest bushings are solid rubber and I am about to throw some in a car going to my mom. They are $25 or so on amazon.

OE is the only source for the rubber ring bushings although sometime the Febest bushings come with them...lol...sort of strange but one of my Febest came with the rings and one did not.

Rear ring: 20202AA011 (need one for each side)
Front ring: 20202AA001 (need one for each side)
OE Bushing Left: 20201AC110 (Febest uses same part number)
OE Bushing Right: 20201AC100
Lock Nut: 20207AA000 (need one for each side) (You can reuse by recommend to replace)
Metal Washer: 20206AA000 (need one for each side) (You can reuse if yours are still there. Suspect they might be damaged give the rubber rings are missing)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
There are rubber rings that go in the front and back of the bushings. Those are gone. I suspect they worn out due to the transverse link bushing being bad.

OE bushings are liquid filled and probably a smoother ride. Febest bushings are solid rubber and I am about to throw some in a car going to my mom. They are $25 or so on amazon.

OE is the only source for the rubber ring bushings although sometime the Febest bushings come with them...lol...sort of strange but one of my Febest came with the rings and one did not.

Rear ring: 20202AA011 (need one for each side)
Front ring: 20202AA001 (need one for each side)
OE Bushing Left: 20201AC110 (Febest uses same part number)
OE Bushing Right: 20201AC100
Lock Nut: 20207AA000 (need one for each side) (You can reuse by recommend to replace)
Metal Washer: 20206AA000 (need one for each side) (You can reuse if yours are still there. Suspect they might be damaged give the rubber rings are missing)

Funny, this is exactly what I ordered for one side, except for the rings. I also ordered a torque wrench to make sure I got everything squared away.
 

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01 Outback LL Bean
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Funny, this is exactly what I ordered for one side, except for the rings. I also ordered a torque wrench to make sure I got everything squared away.
When you install the large nut that locks the transverse link to the control arm you need to pay attention to the orientation of the link. You can either mark the angle the transverse link makes with the control arm on your old link or you need to leave the nut loose and jack up the control arm at the ball joint until the car comes off the jack stand then tighten. The second method is probably best given how bad of shape your current joint might be in. The transverse link nut is 22 or 24 mm. If you are setting locking it down once it is attached to the car at static ride height you will need a box wrench to tighten the nut.

The new transverse link must be locked down at static ride height or you will quickly damage the new bushing!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
When you install the large nut that locks the transverse link to the control arm you need to pay attention to the orientation of the link. You can either mark the angle the transverse link makes with the control arm on your old link or you need to leave the nut loose and jack up the control arm at the ball joint until the car comes off the jack stand then tighten. The second method is probably best given how bad of shape your current joint might be in. The transverse link nut is 22 or 24 mm. If you are setting locking it down once it is attached to the car at static ride height you will need a box wrench to tighten the nut.

The new transverse link must be locked down at static ride height or you will quickly damage the new bushing!
Thanks for the idea, because this is going to help a lot. I believe I have a 22mm wrench, so that should work. What about the inner and outter bolts? Tighten them up at the same time as when I do the nut?
 

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2002 Outback 2.5 MT5 Original Owner
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Febest bushings on the front of my 02 Outback as well. They work great. I recommend marking the perimeter around the old ones with a marker before removal so you can put the new bushings back on in the same place.

Definitely jack the front knuckle so it is 100 percent weight bearing before tightening the lower A arm to bushing nut.

Sent from my SM-G900R4 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Just replaced my LCA rear bushing, made a world of difference on the car. Laos, the side bushings next to the transverse link were completely gone. Thanks everyone for your help. Here's a picture of the bad transverse link for reference. Also, it was super easy to do, although I was not able to precisely torque the nut on the LCA.
2017-11-13_10-49-52 by Jorge Vargas, on Flickr
 

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2002 Outback 2.5 MT5 Original Owner
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Wow that is shot! Mine were not even visibly worn but replacing them made all the difference (car was extremely wallowy and pulling hard left). I also had an auro machine shop press new Febest bushings into the control arm.

Sent from my SM-G900R4 using Tapatalk
 
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