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2001 VDC/SC One of a Kind
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@dobotm

Have you had it scanned for stored error codes?
When was the fluid replaced last? Have you considered dropping the pan and replacing the filter?
Have you checked the mounts, front, side and rear?

If it was the torque converter, you'd get shudder on take off and downshifts. You may also feel a shudder as the TCM tries to apply the torque converter clutch after the car starts moving, about 2nd ratio.

If it's the lock up duty solenoid then you wouldn't have AWD, VDC, traction control, and most of the lights on the dash would be lit up. Same with any solenoid issue, the computer would pick up on it. If it's solenoid related, then that would require a valve body replacement.

Since you have all these miles on it, it may be something simple and fairly easy to rectify. If it is the transmission, used ones can be found relatively inexpensive. Down here in Austin I can get them for about $400 with a torque converter. Any one going this route should be sure the fluid system is clean on the car and have new fluid ready to go in, and maybe a relearn.

No one on this forum or otherwise can tell you when/if/how the transmission will fail. It's impossible to determine based on a single post. IF you have codes from the TCM or verify that you've checked physical parts external to the transmission, then it would be a little more toward a good estimation of what's happening and the lifespan.
 

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2011 Legacy 2.5i Prem. 6mt; 2008 H-D Sportster 883
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14 Posts
Better throw my hat in the ring. 2011 Legacy 6mt. I don't think my problem is legacy or outback specific. Car is making what I would describe as a scraping or grinding noise:

A. When does the sound happen?

In low gears under brisk acceleration. Almost always 1st gear, usually 2nd, sometimes 3rd if I'm gunning it up a highway on-ramp or something. I can also get it to occur if I'm barely creeping backwards and begin to take off even under light throttle. Sound seems to happen between 1500-3000 rpm. There is no noise on deceleration.

B. Where does the sound come from?

Definitely in front of me, but I can't tell if it's on the left side or more towards the center of the car.

C. Does the sound vary with some condition?

Seems more dependent on engine speed, since I can get it to happen under clutch slippage. Gets more frequent as the car/air warms up, but it will still happen in the cold. As far as I can tell, the noise isn't dependent on wheel direction (doesn't get better/worse if I'm turning the steering wheel).

D. Is there a vibration associated with the noise?

Maybe slightly through the body, but not through the wheel, pedals, or gear lever

E. Does it affect drive-ability? how?

Not noticed.

If it matters, I believe my car also has a bad viscous coupling, as I get pretty severe binding during tight parking lot turns after the car is warmed up.
 

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Premium Member
2001 VDC/SC One of a Kind
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13,992 Posts
Better throw my hat in the ring. 2011 Legacy 6mt. I don't think my problem is legacy or outback specific. Car is making what I would describe as a scraping or grinding noise:

A. When does the sound happen?

In low gears under brisk acceleration. Almost always 1st gear, usually 2nd, sometimes 3rd if I'm gunning it up a highway on-ramp or something. I can also get it to occur if I'm barely creeping backwards and begin to take off even under light throttle. Sound seems to happen between 1500-3000 rpm. There is no noise on deceleration.

B. Where does the sound come from?

Definitely in front of me, but I can't tell if it's on the left side or more towards the center of the car.

C. Does the sound vary with some condition?

Seems more dependent on engine speed, since I can get it to happen under clutch slippage. Gets more frequent as the car/air warms up, but it will still happen in the cold. As far as I can tell, the noise isn't dependent on wheel direction (doesn't get better/worse if I'm turning the steering wheel).

D. Is there a vibration associated with the noise?

Maybe slightly through the body, but not through the wheel, pedals, or gear lever

E. Does it affect drive-ability? how?

Not noticed.

If it matters, I believe my car also has a bad viscous coupling, as I get pretty severe binding during tight parking lot turns after the car is warmed up.
How old is the clutch?
What is the condition of your Diff fluid?
Have you checked the CV axles? Bearings?
The viscous coupler could be the source of the noise.
Is the noise loud enough to get a recording on video or otherwise?
 

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2011 Legacy 2.5i Prem. 6mt; 2008 H-D Sportster 883
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14 Posts
How old is the clutch?
What is the condition of your Diff fluid?
Have you checked the CV axles? Bearings?
The viscous coupler could be the source of the noise.
Is the noise loud enough to get a recording on video or otherwise?
I've only had this car about 3 months. I was test driving it during cold weather, and the car couldn't get warmed up enough for any of these symptoms to appear before I bought it. While it otherwise appears in pretty good shape, I'm assuming that the clutch, front driver's side CV joint, and other major mechanical pieces are original (FP CV joint has been replaced at some point). I don't know the condition of any of the fluids, but I'm about to go through and change them all.

If I can get a decent sound recording of the noise, I'll definitely post it.
 

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3 Posts
2001 BH OUTBACK (4 CYL)
A. When does the sound happen?

_ When engine is running YES
_ When transmission is in some particular gear NO
_ When turning YES (LEFT)
_ On throttle YES,POWER ON IN CORNER
_ When braking NO
_ Over bumps NO
_ In cold conditions NO
_ At speed - wind noise NO

B. Where does the sound come from?

_ Can't tell
_ Drivetrain SEEMS LIKE THIS
_ Suspension/wheels/brakes MAYBE?
_ Front YES
_ Rear
_ Body

C. Does the sound vary with some condition?

_ Engine/transmission rpm dependent MAYBE
_ Wheel rpm dependent MAYBE
_ Air speed/direction dependent NO
_ Varies according to some other condition

D. Is there a vibration associated with the noise?
NO


E. Does it affect drive-ability? how? (Essay question, 2500 words or less)

YES, IT'S VERY ANNOYING AND I THINK SOMETHING MIGHT REALLY BRAKE!

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
 

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Premium Member
2001 VDC/SC One of a Kind
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13,992 Posts
2001 BH OUTBACK (4 CYL)
Is it a growing noise, popping noise, knocking noise?

Noise when turning is generally associated with the wheel assembly or front axle. I suggest you check the wheel bearings and axles.

Next would be the exhaust system. No connections loose, no loose heat shielding, etc.

Transmission and engine mounts would be next.
 

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It's a knocking noise, usually when there is heavy load on the engine (up hill around left hand corner). I have done wheel bearings and transmission mount. I thought I had had the axle done,... but ?
Thanks for the replies

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
 

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2001 VDC/SC One of a Kind
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13,992 Posts
It's a knocking noise, usually when there is heavy load on the engine (up hill around left hand corner). I have done wheel bearings and transmission mount. I thought I had had the axle done,... but ?
Thanks for the replies

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
Is the oil full?
 

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1 Posts
Based on a suggestion from a member, we've drawn up a list of clarifying questions regarding some strange or new noise your car is making.

We need details to help diagnose a problem or determine if it may be dangerous to drive the vehicle.

So, please provide as much of this information as you have:

A. When does the sound happen?

_ When engine is running
dr_ When transmission is in some particular gear
_ When turning
_ On throttle
_ When braking
_ Over bumps
_ In cold conditions
5_ At speed - wind noise

B. Where does the sound come from?

x_ Can't tell
Drivetrain
_ Suspension/wheels/brakes
_ Front
_ Rear
_ Body

C. Does the sound vary with some condition?

_ Engine/transmission rpm dependent
x_ Wheel rpm dependent
_ Air speed/direction dependent
_ Varies according to some other condition

D. Is there a vibration associated with the noise?

_ Feel it through the floorpan or seat
_ through the steering wheel
_ Feel it through a pedal

E. Does it affect drive-ability? how? (Essay question, 2500 words or less)/QUOTE]
I think it started with a whining in phoenix Az Then we went to South Dakota and I noticed going down hills that the engine brake was getting louder. so I did not think anything wrong. So when I got to South Dakota I started going 80 miles an hour and i Stop at a high speed. The vehicle did like the engine brake or did a jerking to the car. and started making a load noise under the hood. let the car sit for a few and no noise. The next day drove the car for a hundred or so no noise. When i started to drive home about 75 miles the noise came back like a whirring noise. When I push on the gas the noise seems the louder but the transmission seems ok.
 

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I experience this same problem on my ‘01 Dodge Stratus usually after rain. As far as I understand, it’s just metal or something around the wheel at the turning section of the tire rubbing to make that squeak noise. To fix it, simply just apply WD-40 to the area around the squeak and it fixes it. Mine has been like this for probably 2 years now and this has fixed it and just keep applying it every time it comes up.
 

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2009 Outback 2.5i Limited
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32 Posts
2009 Outback 2.5i Limited

I've been having noise problems for the past few months. Rumbling noise on front end slowly getting louder.
Changes with speed not engine load.

Recently got much louder, particularly at highway speeds. If I'm going 60 and I throw the engine into N, not much changes.
Decided to change out the front bearings, since I'd done the rears two years ago.
During that process the front right axle is free, and when I rotate it by hand against the engine, I get quite a bit of grinding noise.

Is it safe to assume that that CV axle needs to be replaced as well? (and might have been the problem?)
The boots had torn a number of years back, and I just replaced the covers.

Thanks.
 

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2008 OB Limited 2.5i, Portland OR USA
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5,677 Posts
Is it safe to assume that that CV axle needs to be replaced as well? (and might have been the problem?)
The boots had torn a number of years back, and I just replaced the covers.
Are you saying the vehicle was driven several years with torn boots (not sure what you mean by "cover" if you aren't talking about the boots)? If so, chances are that the CV joints are damaged and would need to be replaced.

Whether or not that is contributing to the rumbling noise you are presently hearing is a different issue.
 

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We just bought a 2017 2.5i Outback Limited with 21600 miles on it.
When the car is idle and the AC is on there is a good but of vibrating in the brake (when foot is on the brake) and sounds like it is idling high (rpm is normal at 600).
When the AC is turned off the vibration and noise go away so thinking it is definitley associated with the AC.

We test drove a 2017 3.6 Limited and didn't notice any such noise or vibration.
 

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2001 VDC/SC One of a Kind
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13,992 Posts
Tye 2.5i could have a weak battery or bad ground cable.

Could also be a coked up throttle body.

The AC could be overcharged.

Any of these would cause idle issues. With the low mileage on the car and the age, that's where I'd start.


Of course, I'd just take the 3.6R over the 2.5i. More power, more towing capacity, 5 speed auto instead of a CVT. Probably decked out a bit better as well.
 

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Tye 2.5i could have a weak battery or bad ground cable.

Could also be a coked up throttle body.

The AC could be overcharged.

Any of these would cause idle issues. With the low mileage on the car and the age, that's where I'd start.


Of course, I'd just take the 3.6R over the 2.5i. More power, more towing capacity, 5 speed auto instead of a CVT. Probably decked out a bit better as well.
Thanks for the reply. Appreciate it!

We only tow kayak and paddleboards so the 3.6 wasn't necenssary and the one we test drove had more than double the miles and $1500 more.

It is still under warranty so we will get it into the dealership next week. I saw this thread on here as well with some great information:

 

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For follow up the local dealership fixed the rough idle. It was indeed a bad alternator that was replaced and the idle is now smooth.
Under warranty so no cost to us.
 
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