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1997 Outback Wagon, 2.5L DOHC, auto & 2001 Forester, 2.5L SOHC, auto
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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2015 Outback Limited and experiencing a battery drain. There's an intermittent clicking sound coming from the rear of the car and it looks like when unnoticed will drain the battery overnight. We've experienced some opening issues with the rear tailgate where it will not entirely open and just pop open a tad but that's it. Wife"s car and this has left her stranded a few times. Anyone experience any issues with the auto tailgate or any relays?

Thx
Keez
 

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On the Super Mod Squad
2002 3.0 VDC Wag + 2018 2.5 Leg Ltd
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26,480 Posts

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2016 Outback 2.5
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614 Posts
I wouldn't describe the noise as a "clicking" but it could possibly be the fuel evaporation leakage system running. It sounds more like a small motor.

It can fire up anytime long after you've shut the car off.

I measured about half an amp dark current on my vehicle and I think that's the main culprit in running the batteries down.
 

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2008 Outback 2.5i, 2009 Forrester 2.5 sohc
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606 Posts
I wouldn't describe the noise as a "clicking" but it could possibly be the fuel evaporation leakage system running. It sounds more like a small motor.

It can fire up anytime long after you've shut the car off.

I measured about half an amp dark current on my vehicle and I think that's the main culprit in running the batteries down.

Half an amp seems very high. did you measure from the negative battery post to the negative cable with the car off?

Shouldnt it be more like 10s of milliamps for the unswitched loads like the radio memory and security?

I chased a current leakage on my old 240 volvo, and it turned out to be an after market radio.

A way to trouble shoot is attach your meter between the negative post and cable, read current, and take one fuse out at time and see which fuse service is drawing the high current.
 

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2005 OBXT Limited, VF37, STI intake, 5MT
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I would ask your local dealer about any TSB (technical service bulletin) about rear hatch problems. It sounds like the power liftgate is not cycling fully or a button/switch is being held down.

This is a thread for similar complaints for the 2015+

power lift gate issues
 

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2016 Outback 2.5
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614 Posts
Half an amp seems very high. did you measure from the negative battery post to the negative cable with the car off?

Shouldnt it be more like 10s of milliamps for the unswitched loads like the radio memory and security?

I chased a current leakage on my old 240 volvo, and it turned out to be an after market radio.

A way to trouble shoot is attach your meter between the negative post and cable, read current, and take one fuse out at time and see which fuse service is drawing the high current.

Others on here have noted similar readings or more.
 

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2000 Outback 2.5l 4EAT
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24 Posts
While diagnosing parasitic current draws you should be less than 50mA. Or .05 amps.

Do you have any aftermarket electronics on the car?

You can remove the fuse from the suspected circuit one at a time to narrow it down. Remove a fuse, check the amps. This is more easily done with an ammeter, or a touchless meter of some kind. (I use my Fluke T1000 a fair amount.)
When you found the circuit that has the biggest drop to the amps, look at everything that circuit has on it.
I remember when Honda/Acura came out with their Hands Free Link, customers were complaining about dead batteries all the time. We had a TSB (technical service bulletin) after a month of replacing the HFL control units. The problem was the control unit its self. It was not actually going to sleep after the ignition was turned off.
So it could be the hatch motor/ control unit is having problems going to sleep.

Do some checks first, and I would always recommend asking your local Subaru dealer if they have any TSB's on the subject too.
 

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On the Super Mod Squad
2002 3.0 VDC Wag + 2018 2.5 Leg Ltd
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26,480 Posts
While diagnosing parasitic current draws you should be less than 50mA. Or .05 amps.

Do you have any aftermarket electronics on the car?

You can remove the fuse from the suspected circuit one at a time to narrow it down. Remove a fuse, check the amps. This is more easily done with an ammeter, or a touchless meter of some kind. (I use my Fluke T1000 a fair amount.)
When you found the circuit that has the biggest drop to the amps, look at everything that circuit has on it.
I remember when Honda/Acura came out with their Hands Free Link, customers were complaining about dead batteries all the time. We had a TSB (technical service bulletin) after a month of replacing the HFL control units. The problem was the control unit its self. It was not actually going to sleep after the ignition was turned off.
So it could be the hatch motor/ control unit is having problems going to sleep.

Do some checks first, and I would always recommend asking your local Subaru dealer if they have any TSB's on the subject too.
Its kind of a pandemic here with battery threads for 2013 and newer. day after day after day, :soapbox:
what the factory picked is just not enough with the cold and the factory electronics.
(keyless fobs in coat pockets getting bumped activating interior lights of cars 30 feet away does not help,)
 

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2000 Outback 2.5l 4EAT
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24 Posts
It seems like all manufactures have the same problems. Keyfobs in pockets and hitting the lock/unlock button. ARGH!
 

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2000 Outback 2.5l 4EAT
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24 Posts
Humblemechanic, He is an amazing tech.
I just learned something new too.

I know this is not my thread, but thanks for the lesson.
 
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