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07 OBW N/A 5SP
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2 months ago the TB on my '02 broke while cruising on the highway. Getting ready to pull the engine now. I was given a couple of spare heads off I believe a '01 or '02. Are the heads/ valves the same?

I am also going to use the Fel-Pro (MLS) HG kit. Their website says to replace the head bolts??? Is that really nec.?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated....
 

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01 Outback H6 VDC, 97 GT wgn w/ ej22, 98 OBW w/ej22
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the heads are the same 00 - 02.

you DO NOT need new head bolts.

if you have not bought the felpro kit yet be sure to google for the best price.
my local parts store has it for $200,
a coupon gets it for $150 plus tax.
amazon sells it for $135 plus shipping.
www.rockauto.com for for $125 plus shipping/

look around.
 

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'17 3.6R Touring Brillant Brown Pearl
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OBW H6 VDC, Tribeca, XT6
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no need to replace headbolts. that is dependent on the type of materials used in constructing the head bolt - Subaru's have always been reusable type.

yes the heads and valves are the same.

you can swap valves if you trust your heads more and don't mind compressing valve springs - but it's really annoying and time consuming. swapping a known good head is well worth it.

the heads don't need tested, they'll need resurfaced. you can even do that yourself, it's really easy and saves gobs of time, well worth it to source the one part needed:
DIY Head Resurfacing... or "Post-apocalyptic machine shop techniques!" - Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales... - Ultimate Subaru Message Board

head gasket kits are usually priced too high. all you need is head gaskets and intake manifold gaskets.

valve cover and exhaust manifolds are nice though exhaust manifolds are often reusable and both are easily replaced later as needed.

i'd do the timing belt kit while it's all apart. and cam and crank seals, reseal the oil pump (tigthen the backing plate screws). cam/crank seals may come with the kit if you go that route.

if it has a plastic rear separator, buy the upgraded metal one and appropriate screws. t he plastic ones can crack.
 

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07 OBW N/A 5SP
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for all the info!!! I am hoping there is no piston damage....that would really suck!! I have chatted with allwheeldrive in the past.....I might go for one of his six star kits. Good reviews!

I am glad the spare heads/valves are the same. Don't mind swapping the valves into my heads......save a few bucks on valves. I have always done my own resurfacing unless there was a real bad warp or badly pitted, though I have yet to do a subaru head....just inline fours in the past.....I have a real nice flat stone used for sharpening wood chisels that I use. That and lots of wd40!
Thankfully my engine wasn't leaking any oil/coolant and it wasn't overheating.
And also glad I don't need headbolts! Didn't think it was nec. Just Felpro covering their butts I guess.....

I will most def. replace the separator.....was trying to find it on subaruonline parts but they don't list it?? They show it in their diagrams but don't show a price?? Even tryed Park subaru...nothing there either. I know allwheeldrive has it. Stumbled across it while checking out the site.....lots of great info there.

Once I round up a cherry picker I'll pull the engine and fingers crossed the pistons are ok..

Cheers and thanks again guys!
 

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OBW H6 VDC, Tribeca, XT6
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EJ25 heads are never warp or crack so testing is poinless, it'll have high and low spots and they should be resurfaced, anything more is a waste of time. so sounds like you're good to go.

if a lift is a hang up - an 02 actually isn't that hard to do in the vehicle. remove the lower 2 14mm engine mount nuts and the top pitch stopped - 3 fasteners only and you can lift the engine up quite a few inches, giving more than enough room for easy head removal/install. they're actually quite easy that way.
 

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07 OBW N/A 5SP
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I've been putting off doing the clutch for sometime now.....so pulling the engine will take care of that job as well. Had a new clutch sitting on the shelf since my last OB. Figure now is the time...otherwise I would tackle it in the vehicle. Cheers
 

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How did you know the valves bent? Im asking cause my tooth idler sheared off from a bad bearing and Im nervous that i too am going to have to replace the heads/ blah blah..

Should you without bent valves be able to rotate the cams freely?
 

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Leakdown or compression test is the best way. The valves will still operate even when bent, they just don't seal all the way. . . which leads to low compression.
 

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07 OBW N/A 5SP
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
When the timing belt went I had it towed to a shop. They put the new belt on and then they cranked it over by hand. They could only go a few degrees before it would stop dead. They told me prior that it was an interference engine and the valves were probably bent but they wanted to see for sure. So it would seem I have some badly bent valves in order for it not to crank over. The belt went when I was cruising at 60 mph. The belt disintegrated taking out the timing cover as well. I'll be pulling the engine soon. Hopefully no piston damage!!
 

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When the timing belt went I had it towed to a shop. They put the new belt on and then they cranked it over by hand. They could only go a few degrees before it would stop dead.
is this on your 02 vehicle that's listed? that's odd for the engine to just stop. are they well versed in Subarus? it's often the case that people use the wrong crank mark to install the belt in which case you can get interference.

just making sure since i've never seen a bent valve subaru not be able to turn over the engine...unless they were bent due to catastrophic internal engine failure...blown bearings, pistons crashing through heads, etc...those won't turn over of course. lol

If your heads are off you can set them on a bench upside down and fill the combustion chamber with water and if they're bent the water will leak away.
or some other oil based product that doesn't promote rust.
 

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+1. Wrong crank mark will do that every time. Use the index on the flange of the crank pulley and align it with the mark on the crank sensor. . . ignore the square stamped into the front of the crank pulley.

Luckily they just turned it over by hand.
 

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'01 Outback
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When the timing belt went I had it towed to a shop. They put the new belt on and then they cranked it over by hand. They could only go a few degrees before it would stop dead. They told me prior that it was an interference engine and the valves were probably bent but they wanted to see for sure. So it would seem I have some badly bent valves in order for it not to crank over. The belt went when I was cruising at 60 mph. The belt disintegrated taking out the timing cover as well. I'll be pulling the engine soon. Hopefully no piston damage!!
Being off a few teeth would do that.

As for when the belt parted from this mortal coil, mine went at idle, the rampage cleaned all of the idlers off of the front of the block, ripped the crank sprocket off of the crank, and ruined valves on both sides.
 

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'01 Outback
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is this on your 02 vehicle that's listed? that's odd for the engine to just stop. are they well versed in Subarus? it's often the case that people use the wrong crank mark to install the belt in which case you can get interference.

just making sure since i've never seen a bent valve subaru not be able to turn over the engine...unless they were bent due to catastrophic internal engine failure...blown bearings, pistons crashing through heads, etc...those won't turn over of course. lol

or some other oil based product that doesn't promote rust.
Aluminum heads don't rust.
 

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07 OBW N/A 5SP
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
It's an '02. I'll check the alignment of the belt before going any further. I just assumed there is a badly bent valve(s) that's extended deep into the cc and interfering with the piston.

The shop was one of only a few that were open on a saturday. I was hours away from home so needed to get mobile quickly. They came highly recomended though.
 
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