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2005 Outback 2.5I
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8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Getting ready to replace my front brakes and wanted to hear from anyone about their experiences with various brands. 42,000 on 2005 Outback Wagon--mostly local driving to and from work.
 

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Meh.
I has wagons.
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12,371 Posts
Lots of opinions here. Many people upgrade to Akebono or Hawks for improved performance. I'm about due for a brake job, and it will just be whatever is the best sale: Advance/Autozone/etc.
 

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'06 LOB, '03 Taco, '97 MX-5
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782 Posts
Hawk HPS all around greatly improved feel.
 

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2005 Outback 2.5I
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8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks, Raybestoes are available locally and seem to have a pretty good reputation.
I also have read that the rotors MUST be turned on the vehicle. Can't think of a single reason why, the rotors are certainly not manufactured on a car, right?
 

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2008 Outback 2.5i
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1,148 Posts
Don't bother turning OEM rotors. Either replace them, or take 220 grit sand paper and rough up the surface and take off any rust/wear ring.
I like the Hawk HPS front and rear, with sanded rotors. They have a nice liner feel with with OEM cold bite (10degrees outside). I still have my winter tires on, so i can't say how they are like at threshold braking, higher temps and dusting. But they did have better predictably then OEM and quieter as OEM.

Think of them as what should have been on the car from the factory.
Also, when you pull the rear brakes off, adjust the parking brake shoes. Subaru left off the usual drum auto adjusters.
 

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'05 Outback 2.5i - 5-Spd Manual (Now with a new Family)
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1,266 Posts

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OBW '03 H6 VDC Euro
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86 Posts
Brembo solid rotors and Textar pads combo works just fine for me. Anyway, if you want to upgrade your brakes significantly you should install upgraded calipers first, IMHO.
 

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'06 LOB, '03 Taco, '97 MX-5
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782 Posts
Don't bother turning OEM rotors. Either replace them, or take 220 grit sand paper and rough up the surface and take off any rust/wear ring.
I like the Hawk HPS front and rear, with sanded rotors. They have a nice liner feel with with OEM cold bite (10degrees outside). .....
Well put, although I assume you meant "linear" rather than "liner".
I did not sand my rotors, but did brake them in. Which is the fun part!
 

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'06 LOB, '03 Taco, '97 MX-5
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782 Posts
Lots of opinions here. Many people upgrade to Akebono or Hawks for improved performance. I'm about due for a brake job, and it will just be whatever is the best sale: Advance/Autozone/etc.
Buying brake components based on price alone?
 

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'06 LOB, '03 Taco, '97 MX-5
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782 Posts
Brembo solid rotors and Textar pads combo works just fine for me. Anyway, if you want to upgrade your brakes significantly you should install upgraded calipers first, IMHO.
I'd start with tires, then pads.
 

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Meh.
I has wagons.
Joined
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12,371 Posts
Buying brake components based on price alone?
Not totally. But somewhat. Not the best plan, but hard financial times can mean doing what works in the short run. Front pads for $50 right now are better than worn pads and the $100+ set I can't afford.
 

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2010 OBW limited 2.5 CVT
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1,602 Posts
I bought pads and rotors from Brake_overstock on Ebay for my '98. They were about $60/axle shipped. So far, I am satisfied. They work as well as or better than the OE brakes on my '06. For something to get by until you can afford better, they will fit the bill.
 

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'97 Outback Wagon 2.5 5-speed I saved from junkyard!
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310 Posts
Well put, although I assume you meant "linear" rather than "liner".
I did not sand my rotors, but did brake them in. Which is the fun part!
Well put, although I assume you meant "break" rather than "brake".
 

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'04 OBW, 2.5i, 5-spd
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94 Posts
I'm running Hawk HPS pads and ATE Premium One rotors on all 4 corners.

The reason I went with the Hawks is because Bendix does not make Titaniumetallic pads for Subies.
 

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'06 LOB, '03 Taco, '97 MX-5
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782 Posts
Well put, although I assume you meant "break" rather than "brake".
D'oh! Well.....ummm... at least I was phonetically OK....
 

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'06 LOB, '03 Taco, '97 MX-5
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782 Posts
Not totally. But somewhat. Not the best plan, but hard financial times can mean doing what works in the short run. Front pads for $50 right now are better than worn pads and the $100+ set I can't afford.
Probably - the name brands are usually OK, as long as you're not canyon carving. For most day-to-day applications, it's a difference in feel rather than performance.
Do make sure you break your brake pads in!
 

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Meh.
I has wagons.
Joined
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12,371 Posts
Don't get me wrong, I would love to have Brembo blanks with Hawk HPS or Akebono pads and rotors to give me something better than stock. But that is outside of the budget right now.

So it will probably be Advance Auto ceramic pads and new rotors with fresh fluid.
 

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2011 Outback Limited 2.5i/2018 Crosstrek limited
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5,013 Posts
Question. Not knowing a lot about brakes...other than they stop the car...okay I'm not that uninformed...but...isn't it better to replace with OEM pads seeing as they are made for the specs of the car, rotors, etc. Can mixing and matching rotors and pads lead to premature wear of one or the other...or both because they are not matched up for each other?

I have looked at after market parts, but unless it's an old clunker...and I have not had one of those since I used to drive the old VW bugs...I have always ended up going OEM. Never been disappointed with them. Are the performace gains from after market parts really worth it?
 

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'02 2.5 SOHC 4EAT AWD, Purolator classic air filter, Mastercraft Tires, Pennzoil high milage 10w-30, Car Quest platinum (Wix) filter
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13 Posts
Thinking about picking up these for my fronts, Beck Arnley- Premium - Semi-metallic. It's 50$ delivered from parts bin. Any thoughts??? Total subaru newbie here!!!
 

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22,806 Posts
Question. Not knowing a lot about brakes...other than they stop the car...okay I'm not that uninformed...but...isn't it better to replace with OEM pads seeing as they are made for the specs of the car, rotors, etc. Can mixing and matching rotors and pads lead to premature wear of one or the other...or both because they are not matched up for each other?

I have looked at after market parts, but unless it's an old clunker...and I have not had one of those since I used to drive the old VW bugs...I have always ended up going OEM. Never been disappointed with them. Are the performace gains from after market parts really worth it?
Yes and yes you are correct Scooby. You BS with the track guys enough they will all say the same thing. When you start replacing things with non OEM specs you create a cascade effect as other parts in the chain end up needing to be upgraded to non OEM spec to support the original non OEM spec part.

With brakes I learned that more than anything is how heat is generated and dissipated. After market non OEM pads pending their make up could generate more heat and so your stock rotors - calipers and possibly brake lines etc then have an issue. I learned that one just before I put non OEM pads on my Landcruiser. Another family member was saying WOW these pads are great they have lasted more than 6000 miles etc etc. Then a week later he has a caliper fail and a brake line suffer heat damage while repairing these he finds out his new rotors with 8000 miles on them are nearly torched. So I do some digging and fine out there is a very good reason the old LC is speced with pads that wear out in 6000 miles or so. All related to heat and how the rest of the bits cope with it.
 
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