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Best OEM Brakes for my Situation

3K views 6 replies 6 participants last post by  stevenva 
#1 ·
Hey there gang,
First post here, stalked for a while, been on NASIOC for a while, too. So here's my situation. Got rid of my '02 Outback, and bought my mom's old 2011 Outback. I kept the new Sparco Terra's, and snow tires I had for the '02, as they were pretty **** new. Using the Terra's for some non winter tires (Yokohama Geolandar's). Was wondering, when I do need new rotors/pads for my car, what would be some good brands/sizes to look at that are a good step up from the OE ones on there now?
Mainly worried about rotors and sizing, and wondering if I could step up a size or if that would require some work to get the caliper moved due to the new rotor size and what not.
Been looking at the usual suspects (Brembo, StoTek, etc.) but would like some more opinion to think about for when the time actually comes to purchase stuff, I can have it well sorted beforehand.
 
#2 ·
IMO, going with a BBK is not worth the money. You already have the largest production 5x100 brakes (save the Legacy S402 Brembo setup) Subaru used (at 316mm diameter). StopTech is only 16mm larger (at 332mm). You would get nice 4-piston calipers, but pads and rotors will forever be harder to get and more expensive. Plus, the kits are running $2500+.

If you want to "feel" the brakes better, I'd start with a fluid flush/replacement. You'd be surprised how much of a difference fresh fluid makes (and given NO ONE changes it after 2 years like you should).

Next, I'd do braided stainless lines to firm-up the pedal (if needed).

Otherwise, (assuming you're sticking with OE brake setup), stick to solid (blank) rotors and a good ceramic set of pads. You can do something a little more aggressive on the pads (like Hawk or EBC), but they always come at a trade-off (higher dust, lower life, more noise) the more aggressive you go.
 
#3 ·
I was quite satisfied when installing ceramic pads. At the time I had to replace the rotors on all four corners but that was after 100K.

Ceramics will wear the rotors more than composite (soft) pads but you should still get 50-60K off of the rotors.

Usually that is a good time to get in there and look at the bearings, bushings, boots and ends. I found it easier to commit to an entire day of being coated in dirt and grease if I could finish off an entire axle. In a weekend the car can be sitting nicely and I won't have to go back for 2-3 more years.
 
#4 ·
I recently did routine brake service on my '12 3.6...

Resurfaced the OEM rotors, replaced pads at all 4 corners with Hawk HPS (bedded properly!), replaced fluid with Valvoline synthetic. It is night and day different. Several weeks after doing the work, I still notice how much better the braking is. IMHO, you needn't do anything else...or should at least start here before spending crazy money.
 
#5 ·
Thanks guys for the replies. Gives me sometime to mull over. Just dropped over $1k in new tires and such, so no moves now. When I do get stuff done, probably get new rotors, just due to the fact that here there is a lot of salt used in winter so rotors are pretty rusted.
 
#6 ·
On an 2001 legacy gt, I used hawk pads and I liked the performance. On cold mornings it took a stop or two to warm up the brakes, after that, they stop on a dime. I had a pocket of weird wear on one of the pads, and called up hawk, sent pictures and they sent new pads. It's comforting getting a response like that from a company these days.

I just used some akebono pads on a 2008 outback with new rotors (raybestos e-coated?) and like them so far, but I'm only 200 miles in. I wouldn't consider these performance pads, but would consider them a high quality replacement. Akebono is a little skimpy on the grease, but they provide just enough to put on the contact points and they don't include the new clips that the brakes sit in for the calipers.

I'll probably use the Akebono on my wife's stock impreza too, which may be the exact same pads.
 
#7 ·
Akebono pads and regular rotors. The only upgrade to rotors may be Centric coated. Coated rotors will help only by keeping rust at bay on the non-surface area, they will stop the same as regulars. Get a complete fluid exchange. Many techs will cheat and just bleed any air and stop short of a full exchange of fluid. A car of that age may benefit from upgraded brake hoses, They may have become soft by now and need them anyway.
 
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