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Discussion Starter #1
So far I'm 0 for 2 on the lower ones. The bolt heads just snap off. The driver side was popped off by my impact wrench. The passenger side was popped off using my 1/2" breaker bar. There is no rust on them. I've seen grade 9 and even grade 10 bolts used in this application. These appear to be grade cheddar. Sorry, just needed to vent.
 

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Master Caster
2005 XT, Mildly Modified...2006 XT Limited, Highly Modifed
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So far I'm 0 for 2 on the lower ones. The bolt heads just snap off. The driver side was popped off by my impact wrench. The passenger side was popped off using my 1/2" breaker bar. There is no rust on them. I've seen grade 9 and even grade 10 bolts used in this application. These appear to be grade cheddar. Sorry, just needed to vent.
They are typically pretty tough for the size of them. Here's the trick that I use. I use a 3/8' bar, and I tap the bar with a hammer. Like a baby, hand impact. It's always good to soak a few weeks prior to work in high corrosion environments.

That said, the last they may have been installed with way too much torque.
 

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2005 Outback H6 3.0 LL Bean
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These are grade 10.9 bolts. The only time I ever twisted one of them apart is when I didn't use any penetrating lubricant on it. It was on a newer car, under 100k miles, not too rusty, tightened by the factory. It was the lower bolt like yours. Since then, I have learned my lesson; always PB Blaster, never a problem.
 

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Master Caster
2005 XT, Mildly Modified...2006 XT Limited, Highly Modifed
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These are grade 10.9 bolts. The only time I ever twisted one of them apart is when I didn't use any penetrating lubricant on it. It was on a newer car, under 100k miles, not too rusty, tightened by the factory. It was the lower bolt like yours. Since then, I have learned my lesson; always PB Blaster, never a problem.
I have run across several new stories now of over torqued factory bolts. I tried to do a J-pipe (used to be downpipe) on a 2016 WRX and the bolts/nuts and studs were so over torqued I had to give up completely or risk breaking something.
 

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Onyx, 2008 LL Bean 3.0R and 2017 Honda Civic Hatchback Sport Touring
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Cobalt drill bit and tap set time? New caliper time? Sucks either way.
 

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2005 Outback H6 3.0 LL Bean
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When mine broke, the bolt stub was still sticking out of the caliper bracket. If I was at home, I'm sure I could've saved it by welding a nut onto the stub and hitting it with the impact. Because I was working on a relative's car in a different state, however, a new caliper for $70 at NAPA solved the problem nicely. Another part that's relatively cheap and widely available because Subaru used them on everything for decades.
 

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2005 OBXT Limited, VF37, STI intake, 5MT
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For reference, the grade 10.9 does not denote its ability to resist twisting (or torque). It's the rating of tensile strength (push/pull) and shear strength. (Generally, the higher the grade, the better at resisting torque-related failure)

Still sucks and is a major PITA.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
A fresh 2006 OB showed up in the yard. Time to practice this Sunday! With a can of PB Blaster of course.
 

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Master Caster
2005 XT, Mildly Modified...2006 XT Limited, Highly Modifed
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Por que?

You just got a new car instead?
 

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Master Caster
2005 XT, Mildly Modified...2006 XT Limited, Highly Modifed
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16,119 Posts
A fresh 2006 OB showed up in the yard. Time to practice this Sunday! With a can of PB Blaster of course.
Start soaking now. Sunday is just a couple "creep' days away.
 

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2005 Outback Wagon 3.0 L.L. Bean
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After soaking, "Shock" the fastener by striking it with a hammer prior to twisting it loose.
Use a bit of heat only if needed. Not too much as to heat the piston seals.
 
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Master Caster
2005 XT, Mildly Modified...2006 XT Limited, Highly Modifed
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After soaking, "Shock" the fastener by striking it with a hammer prior to twisting it loose.
Use a bit of heat only if needed. Not too much as to heat the piston seals.
Except there are bellows (grease/dust shield) on these caliper bolts. Heat gonna cook those right away.

Unless we are talking about the hanger-to-the-knuckle bolt.
 

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2006 Subaru OUtback XT
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88 Posts
OK, we seem to have a bolt problem. So which bolts in the picture below?
 

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2012 OB , 2017 Impreza
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OK, we seem to have a bolt problem. So which bolts in the picture below?
In your photo, the SLIDER bolts (1) are not supposed to be very tight. These bolts do not have much load on them. All they do is keep the calipers aligned to the brakepads.

However, the BRACKET bolts (Not in your photo) must pass the entire weight of the vehicle and all braking forces from the brakepads to the spindle housing. These bolts have fine threads on them and are high tensile. I have replaced these with grade8 metric bolts from local hardware store.

Of course, the BRACKET bolts are only removed if the ROTOR is being replaced. Since the caliper is already removed at this point, applying a little heat is not a big deal.
 

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In your photo, the SLIDER bolts (1) are not supposed to be very tight. These bolts do not have much load on them. All they do is keep the calipers aligned to the brakepads.

However, the BRACKET bolts (Not in your photo) must pass the entire weight of the vehicle and all braking forces from the brakepads to the spindle housing. These bolts have fine threads on them and are high tensile. I have replaced these with grade8 metric bolts from local hardware store.

Of course, the BRACKET bolts are only removed if the ROTOR is being replaced. Since the caliper is already removed at this point, applying a little heat is not a big deal.
The bolts #3 have a flat cut that keeps them from spinning but bolts #1screw down inside #3 and clamp the calipar down. I had a hard time getting the bottom #1 bolt loose on my right side. A new set of bolts from Rockauto is like $6 a side.

The #2 bolt missing in the picture but goes thru the two holes in the bracket, my bottom one also was well over 100 Ft/Lbs and fought me most of the way out. Rusty-crusty. Took my wirewheel to them and chased a tap in the holes threads.

Per Carfax my 06 OBXT came from Colorado where it spent 9 of its years.
 

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You guys all seem to be fans of PB Blaster, have any of you ever tried Kroil? I like Kroil better than PB Blaster, Kroil is known as the oil that creeps. Any time you use a penetrating oil you should tap/hit the fastener to cause vibration to help the oil get through the rust.
 

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Master Caster
2005 XT, Mildly Modified...2006 XT Limited, Highly Modifed
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You guys all seem to be fans of PB Blaster, have any of you ever tried Kroil? I like Kroil better than PB Blaster, Kroil is known as the oil that creeps. Any time you use a penetrating oil you should tap/hit the fastener to cause vibration to help the oil get through the rust.
Kroil is awesome. More expensive than a (2-for-$4) at autozone. "Creep" is also very good. I try to mention all three usually. Sometimes "PB" is just the general call for penetrant.
 

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2005 Outback H6 3.0 LL Bean
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I used to work at a paper mill and the guys there swore by Kroil. I tried to order some directly from their (Kano Labs') website once, and immediately had my credit card stolen. I see it's available on Amazon now. PB Blaster seems to be adequately effective, and given its wide availability and low price, I haven't been tempted to experiment with anything else.
 

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2012 OB , 2017 Impreza
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The bolts #3 have a flat cut that keeps them from spinning but bolts #1screw down inside #3 and clamp the calipar down. I had a hard time getting the bottom #1 bolt loose on my right side. A new set of bolts from Rockauto is like $6 a side.

The #2 bolt missing in the picture but goes thru the two holes in the bracket, my bottom one also was well over 100 Ft/Lbs and fought me most of the way out. Rusty-crusty. Took my wirewheel to them and chased a tap in the holes threads.

Per Carfax my 06 OBXT came from Colorado where it spent 9 of its years.
#3 in the photo is NOT "bolts". Instead, those are the SLIDERS themselves. All these sliders do is slide in/out of the housing. The bolts #1 thread into the end of them.

With that said, it is not unusual for the sliders to become stuck within the caliper housing. This most often happens if the rubber bellows allows water to get inside.

I have been able to get a stuck slider moving again with penatrating-lube or a propane torch. Since all the hydraulics are within the CALIPER, it is OK to apply some heat to the bracket where the sliders move. Remember that the rubber parts are DESIGNED to take the heat of braking so they are pretty robust.

Start by soaking with penatrating-lube for a day or so... then GENTLY try to rotate the sliders back and forth. If you get ANY movement at all.... you have won the battle and they WILL come out with patence.

If that does not work, then move on to using a propane torch. Again GENTLY try to rotate the sliders back and forth.
 

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2005 XT, Mildly Modified...2006 XT Limited, Highly Modifed
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If that does not work, then move on to using a propane torch. Again GENTLY try to rotate the sliders back and forth.
Remember, the lower slider has the rubber sleeve, so torching it will toast it. A slider is cheaper than a caliper for sure. It just may take some extra cleaning if the rubber gets smoked.
 
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