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Onyx, 2008 LL Bean 3.0R and 2017 Honda Civic Hatchback Sport Touring
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4,112 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
My left rear rotor and hub got really hot (350 degrees Fahrenheit) on my 2000 2.5 H4 automatic trans, so I thought the wheel bearing was going. Upon inspection and the opinion of my local guy, we determined the bearing and hub were fine. But, the caliper was dragging. Replaced the left rear brake line and pads on both sides and it helped some. But the rotor was still about 75-80 degrees hotter than the other three.

I rebuilt the caliper about 9 months ago and it still seemed sort of "sluggish" if you know what I mean. I believe the heat put an end to it. I'm going to put a new caliper on there next week and wonder if there is any problem with using an aftermarket (Duralast Gold from Autozone or similar) caliper? Is this one of those "You're really gonna regret it down the road just because you saved some money now" deals? Or is a decent caliper a decent caliper and I can get away with an aftermarket much (OEM $216 vs Duralast $59 with core) cheaper one?
 

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2001 VDC/SC One of a Kind
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14,317 Posts
You can get an A1 Cardone from any good supplier that carries a lifetime warranty. They are excellent calipers and I have yet to have any issues with one. I don't know who rebuilds for Auto Zone, but I know Advance and Oreilly's use them.
 

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Onyx, 2008 LL Bean 3.0R and 2017 Honda Civic Hatchback Sport Touring
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4,112 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I ordered a driver side rear A1 Cardone caliper. Hopefully this solves the problem and my steering wheel shimmy does not come back either. Logically the shimmy should be eradicated since relieving some pressure on the rotor from the caliper fixed it, therefore relieving all of the pad drag on the caliper should keep the shimmy away. Of course the key word here is "logically" - not something that applies to many things in my life. lol
 

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Onyx, 2008 LL Bean 3.0R and 2017 Honda Civic Hatchback Sport Touring
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4,112 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
The caliper did and still does work to stop the car nearly three years later. But, no it did not fix the steering wheel shimmy. I ended up biting the bullet last year and rebuilding a lot of components on the driver's side front end. They included: Ball Joint, Wheel Bearing, and replaced the steering rack with a used one I picked up for $50 with the tie rods, so that took care of both sides inner and outer tie rod ends. Plus a new (used) knuckle because I FUBAR'd mine while trying to drill out the ball joint retainer bolt which I broke off in the knuckle.

So lots of time and money later and the shimmy has not come back. I have several threads here about my relentless intermittent steering wheel shimmy with lots of false starts, dead ends, and temporary fixes that will cover just about anything you can try to diagnose and possibly even fix a shimmy. It goes well beyond the "Did you balance your tires?" type of questions.
 
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