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2010 Outback

Local shop quote for both axles to replace pad and resurface: $300 +tax

My experience replacing pad is on a 98 Honda Accord EX which had disc brakes. I'd like to just buy pads and do the job myself, but don't have the ability to resurface.

Is it worth the savings if money is really tight?
--tj
 

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you got about 150 in part and 150 labor there.... How many miles do you have. I just turned 60K and ordered my pads and rotors for when I have time.
 

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if you're discs aren't vibrating at all - you don't need a resurface, just replace the pads. Subaru's are unbelievably easy to replace pads on, very simple job. Once the wheel is off - they are usually one or two bolts to replace the pads. I have a nice jack and air tools for the wheel and can do it in like a few minutes.

regardless of armchair commentators that speak of the apocalypse when talking about brakes....they are usually unbelievably easy...particularly new stuff like yours with no rust issues yet.

find a local place that does resurface and let them do it. $15 the shop across the st from my office does it so it's convenient.

you can also just buy new rotors and then no worries about resurfacing, save the old rotors for next time, have them resurfaced later when it's convenient. but then that cuts into your savings.

be sure to check and if necessary clean and grease the caliper slide pins.
 

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The subaru brakes are already marginal if you ask me. I would resurface. Most auto parts places do this for $10 ea. But they will want 4 hours, because I think they don't like doing it, so plan accordingly. Don't expect to drop them off and get them in an hour. But it's pretty easy to do. You can change the transmission fluid and diff fluid while you wait :)
 

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Except that modern brake materials really need the fresh surface to break in properly. Will you still stop? sure. Will the brakes be working as well as they can? No.
i undersatnd where you're coming from, but i don't think that's how it works practically speaking.

one could theoretically argue a used rotor is more effective at stopping if one was into armchair debating about theoretical and technical points that mean little in the real world.

an uneven rotor presents more surface area of contact for the pad to contact. so you would have the effective surface area of a larger rotor. more friction, more heat dissipating surface area....better.

the difference is nearly silly but the point is - the differences are so small they are negligible for real world practical experiences.

yes - some rotors need to head to the scrap yard or be turned, but as a rule so say that all used rotors are bad is silly. a 2010, unless it's seen some kind of odd use/abuse - the rotors are likely fine to use.

i'm not even saying I "wouldn't turn them, i would. but if one didn't want too, it wouldn't be a big deal, i like to inform people and let them make their own decisions. 10 years ago nowhere turned rotors where i lived so it wasn't convenient and i avoided it far more often. now i'm lucky.

if the person wasn't needing new pads - he would still be driving those same rotors with no issues.

if one is into telling others about their rotors - please let them know how you know, what experience, data, quantitative results, how many times have you driven without turning rotors across different makes/models/decades? too often stuff like this is a one-size-fits-all regurgitated opinion rather than based on technical, experience, engineering driven quantitative results in the real world. the later is generally more helpful to people.
 

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Most auto parts places do this for $10 ea.
most auto parts places are not turning rotors for customers any more. depends on area, there are many people that don't have a convenient place to have rotors turned. i've never seen it for less than $15 but still it's cheap and you definitely would like to keep the original, probably higher quality OEM rotor material over buying new.
 

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most auto parts places are not turning rotors for customers any more. depends on area, there are many people that don't have a convenient place to have rotors turned. i've never seen it for less than $15 but still it's cheap and you definitely would like to keep the original, probably higher quality OEM rotor material over buying new.
144,000 miles on my 2001 before I pulled the original rotors and had them checked and what the machinist called more of a cleaning than a turning. Minor build up was what he called it.

Pads used were stock OEM pads changed about every 65,000 miles. Use? Car lived in San Francisco did daily Bay Area commutes and towed trailers through the sierras. Essentially your worst example of possible brake abuse.

The machinist who checked my rotors said that he almost never EVER sees subaru rotors that need replacing. Then pointed to a few other vehicle brand stock rotors and said that he gets lots of those and they need to be replaced. What were they?

GM products - Ford products and to my surprise some of the Honda products. Why? He said simple large heavy vehicles with under built rotors.

So far my gen 4 has been pretty much identical to my 2001 regarding pad wear. However around 32,000 miles when driving local slow speed streets with various stop signs and such the brakes would develop a terrible sounding grinding sound which would go away after a few higher speed freeway off ramp type stops where heavier use of the brakes took place. I actually pulled the calipers twice trying to sort out why they were doing this. Pads were fine and rotors were fine. Now at 43,000 miles this grind sound has gone away.

My suspicion is that the pad material had a slight consistency change and the dust it created at low temp light braking use caused this grinding type sound which was probably more like mini marbles rolling between the disk and the pad surface. Now with the pads worn down a little more this isn't happening so my suspicion is that the pad material that was generating this dust effect has been worn through and the material is generating dust that isn't causing this. Pads have about 50% left at 43,000 miles not all that different than my old subaru.

I'll be tossing on new pads probably OEM around 60-65K and the rotors are fine right now and probably will be perfectly fine at 65K. Since I started doing my own brakes ironically both and and the wife have had FAR FAR FAR fewer brake ie zero brake issues. Prior to that we seemed to have lots of odd early replacement of pads and oddly enough rotors which were no longer in spec ie had been turned down to the point they had to be replaced.

I caught a toyota dealer having turned down over 50% of the meat off my brand new rotors on my truck a couple of years ago. After I produced the receipt from their very own parts dept and the work order stating the rotors were new and not to turn them - then having the shop manager measure the rotors with me he finally caved and gave me in the box two new front rotors for my truck.

When shops turn your rotors and make it out as they are doing you a favor - it is a easy opportunity for them to trim down your rotors so your back for a full brake job sooner than later.
 

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most auto parts places are not turning rotors for customers any more. depends on area, there are many people that don't have a convenient place to have rotors turned. i've never seen it for less than $15 but still it's cheap and you definitely would like to keep the original, probably higher quality OEM rotor material over buying new.
O'reilly autoparts, a fairly large chain here in Colorado, did mine for $10 ea this Spring.

Napa here in Boulder also boasts a 'machine shop' and turn rotors, but they wanted $15. I didn't check Advance Auto parts.

I'm surprise that 'most' don't turn them since it seems like 'most' here in colorado do, and the did in Gainesville, FL 10 years ago, and in Mass 15 years ago.
 
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