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2001 Subaru Outback H6 3.0 LL Bean
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I know that the rotors tend to warp on these Subie rotors. I currently have two sets (stock and Raybestos) but these are probably going to be done, especially the stock ones. What rotors are recommended (the best bang for the buck)? Also, any good pads out there that I should look for (Hawks?)

Car is an '01 H6 3.0 if that matters at all. Any input would be great.

thanks in advance :)
 

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(formerly) 03 H6 OBW , (presently) 06 WRX Sportwagon & 2021 Honda CR-V
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I think stock equipment is pretty good, that said, I really like the value from Centric for a daily driver - even a little 'spirited driving'.

Try Centric rotors with Centric Posiquiet Ceramic pads. I'm running those pads on the wifes 03 H6 and they are as good or better than stock, MUCH better than the Wagner pads I pulled off at half-use.

If you feel you need a high performance pad, try StopTech Street Performance. I run those on my WRX. great value, good enogh for an occasional track day, bite well cold (well, low mid 20s anyway) they dust a little more than stock - not a lot more. There's a very long thread on them at NASIOC.

as for warping, it's a term that is usually a misnomer. Uneven pad deposition is the most likely cause of pedal pulsation. But brakes can fail in a lot of different ways and sticking calipers and other problems can lead to pad deposition or changes in the rotor alloy's temper.

lot s of good reading at the stoptech site;

-Warped- Brake Disc and Other Myths

Bed-In Theory

Uneven Pad Deposit Removal

for brake parts lube, I was recommended and now use;

 

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2008 Ford Escape XLS - 2002 Subaru Outback
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'03 Outback H6-3.0 Black Granite Pearl, base model with cold weather package and cloth seats.
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Unless you have a very specific need for a specific performance enhancement, you can't beat the OEM pads and rotors.

I've gone back to them after trying Napa stuff and even Brembo blanks. And my mechanic agrees that for normal applications, Subaru OEM can't be beat.

And, about all you can easily find is OEM for rear rotors.

Slotted/drilled? All nonsense for these cars.
 

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01 Outback LL Bean
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I would agree that OEM is good but much more expensive than Centric which I agree is OE quality or better. I also recommend the Centric Posiquiet ceramic pads and centric rotors. Centric also makes a cryo-genically treated rotor for a little more. Best prices are on rock auto.
 

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2001 Subaru Outback H6 3.0 LL Bean
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
thanks for all the input. I understand OEM is usually the best way to go but it all depends on how much I can save up til I need to get new brakes. I'm a broke recent-college-graduate (june).

Right now, I'm in the process of getting tranny and diff materials to do a drain/fill process since my gears are sluggish. After that, I will save money to get either centrics or possibly OEMs.
 

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2002 Outback 2.5
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41 Posts
I know that stock brakes should be good enough for our cars but over the past year I have found that they just are not up to the job. After ruining 2 sets of front rotors ( one new) I bought ebc Usr slotted rotors. And paired them with hawk hps pads in the front. They are great, no heat problems at all. I drive canyon type roads everyday and can not fade this set up. The stocks preformed poorly compared to these.

I wish I had stopping distance to compare overall braking improvent. The price was steep but worth it for me. Plus it just looks cool to have slotted rotors!! Haha. Anyway I just wanted to put in my 2 cents.

Good luck
Reed
 

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02 Outback LL Bean
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nibble123- I did a rotor swap about 3k miles ago. I used Napa rotors and pads on my car. I think I went one step up from the cheap ones. I'll look at the receipt when I get home. So far they work good for me. I think the bed-in process is what makes the everything work correctly.

I think it depends on your application. For a DD that might see an occasional spirited backroad drive the Napa or OE stuff should be fine. If you are doing a lot of spirited driving I might splurge on the expensive stuff. To me the cost wasn't worth it.
 

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In my opinion, on a street car that probably won't be raced, OEM or inexpensive parts from NAPA or similar are probably fine.

-Where I differ from many people is that I have a personal policy to NEVER "turn" a brake disc. When I replace pads, if the disk doesn't have nasty gouges or other problems, then I simply re-use it. Turning a disc ~~~INVARIABLY~~~ in my opinion leads to warping and a vibrating sensation when you go to stop. Utterly annoying, I've noticed that my brakes work perfectly fine simply by changing out the pads and leaving the disc in place. I did this to my minivan 7 years ago, and the brakes worked fine afterwards. The pads are due, and looking at the disc, I think I am going to replace them this time. The van is a '97 model with 155,000 miles and they look like the original discs. Only within the past year have I had the vibration.

My opinion on brake discs/pads. YMMV-
 

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Normy my 2001 Subaru was the same way. I did all the pad replacements generally around 65K with about 10% left on the pads. I finally took the stock rotors at 144,000 to a machine shop they checked em they were perfectly fine regarding specs and they only had a very slight build up on them. They ran smooth and were a non issue at 180,000 miles when I sold the car.

We towed trailers with that car through the Sierras - and live and commuted daily in San Francisco brake abuse doesn't get much worse than that. As for turning discs I caught a very large Toyota dealer who turned my BRAND NEW rotors after explicitly noting in the work order not to turn rotors. They turned them! I made them put a gauge on them at the dealer when I picked it up and found out they had turned the rotors. They had turned over half the meat off the brand new rotors! I had the service manager come to the desk and after some arguing and showing him the Freaking receipt for the rotors purchased from his parts department 3 months prior he relented and gave me brand new rotors in the box for me to take home and put on the truck.

The whole turning the rotors thing is too much of an opportunity for a shop to hasten your need for a future brake job - generating more income for them and yes additional parts they can mark up and sell to you since your rotors are done and need replacing at that visit. LOL

Since I started doing all our brakes on our cars I have not had any more brake issues and we have not had to replace ANY rotors due to being near max spec or out of spec for many years now.
 

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+1 on this concept. I have not had rotors turned on any of my vehicles (Fords, Toyotas, Nissans) in years after having some of the same exepriences. If a rotor gets scarred up bad enough to require turning, I replace it (and it's friend on the other side).
 

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2001 Outback Wagon 2.5i 208000 miles
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I had the Centric Premium Rotors, and Posi Quiet Ceramic pads delivered to my doorstep, purchased on Amazon.com, for a total of $117 for the fronts. Did the job in under 2 hours. The dealer wanted about $250 to do the front brakes, (turning the old existing rotors). The brakes are great. NO shimmy issues like before.
 
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