My pedal kept going to the floor once my abs light went on...it was scary but I was a mile from my house, but before my car was serviced my brakes were fine
And then again here:
I haven't tried it yet....I've had my abs light come on before and ive shut the car off and turned it back on and the light has gone off and I didn't have any problems
Okay, ABS system learning time. Your arguments are fruitless and without merit.
This is not air brakes. The ABS system works in conjunction with the hydraulic system on any car. It relies on hydraulic pressure to operate. With 4 WABS, each wheel has a speed sensor that communicates the wheel's rotation to the ABS module. When the modules "sees" a wheel moving slower or at a stop in relation to the other wheels and the operator is applying the brakes, it will activate a control solenoid and dump valve to pulsate the pressure to the wheel losing traction to maintain a rolling state rather than lock up.
Sensors on the hydraulic system in more recent builds communicate hydraulic pressure, pedal pressure and reservoir fluid levels to effectively operate the complete system.
If the hydraulic system has a failure, then the ABS cannot function. If the ABS module, motor, solenoids or speed sensors have a malfunction and it is seen by the ABS module, the ABS is deactivated and stopping relies solely on the driver's attention to loss of traction.
In the scenario we have here, there was an issue with the ABS prior to the visit for the steering repair, but it was ignored. We can assume, based on the OP's description, that it was an electronic issue since it reset with the key off, then on. We don't know what the issue was because codes and history codes have not been posted. We don't know how long its been since the initial incidents to now, so there is also the possibility that any history codes have cleared themselves. Also, if the dealer tech disconnected the battery while doing the repair, memory is wiped clean up to that point. Prior incident codes are mute.
When the ABS light comes on steady, there are two things that clear the light and reactivate the ABS. One is repair of the fault. The other is a key cycle where the light will go off after a bulb check and stay off until it sees a problem emerge.
When the system detects and issue with the hydraulic system, it deactivates because it needs the hydraulics to perform in order for the ABS module to perform.
As for the drop in pedal and then the ABS light coming on; duh, hydraulic issue with the vehicle caused the ABS to disengage and deactivate because it knew it would be worthless to operate without a proper operating hydraulic system.
There is apparently, now at this time, an issue with the hydraulic system. It could be in the master cylinder. Could be in the ABS motor assembly. Could be something at the wheels like a hose leaking, a bleeder valve is open, a joint at a connection is leaking, a caliper seal is leaking or a dump valve within the ABS unit or the relief valve in the master cylinder is stuck open allowing for loss of pressure. We don't know.
As for the vehicle not stopping. Apparently it did, just not up to full snuff. So somewhere on the car brakes did apply to slow and stop the car. FAILSAFE.
Stop with trying to lay blame on the manufacturer. Your just spinning your wheels.