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2013 2.5i Outback Limited w/ moonroof
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Discussion Starter #1
Taking a 12 hour trip tomorrow, she currently has 1,800 miles, anyone think using cruise control will be a problem or should I be past that point by now?
 

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2013 Subaru Outback
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Good to Go

I never saw anything in the owners manual about not using the cruise control. It says not to run the same speed "for a long period of time" during the first 1000 miles.

I used the cruise control during the first 1000 miles, adjusting the speed occasionally (every 15 minutes or so).

You are definitely fine now at your mileage.
 

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2013 Outback 2.5 Premium
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Not keeping the same speed in a vehicle for the first 1000 miles is an excellent idea ... for your carbureted vehicle. According to my "other" boxer engine dealer, this had less to do with maintaining the same speed, and more to do with breaking in the spring(s) and mechanics associated with the carburetor; generating a "flat spot" half way through the throttle opening (from closed to WOT). Drive-by-wire (throttle, at least) as pretty much done away with this.

I think a lot of legacy information has been passed down from generation to generation without substantiating whether or not it is actually necessary... sort of like changing your oil every 3,000 miles.

Besides, unless you live in Texas or some other incredibly flat state, you're probably going to be varying engine speeds @70MPH on a 12hr trip as you ascend/descend hills, go through stoplights for pee breaks, etc.
 

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2012 Impreza Sport Ltd 2013 Outback Limited SAP
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Issue is probably more centered on the rings than on the fuel delivery system. You do know that these are fuel injected?
 

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2013 Outback - 3.6R Limited, EyeSight/Nav/MoonRoof/Kitchen Sink.
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Book said something about 500 miles. Dealer said 1000.

Either way, you should be good to go at 1800.
 

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2013 2.5i Premium 6mt, Twilight Blue
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^^ Owner's manual also says 1,000 miles. OP should be good to go at his current mileage.
 

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2013 Outback 2.5 Premium
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Issue is probably more centered on the rings than on the fuel delivery system. You do know that these are fuel injected?
Yes, perhaps I didn't make it clear. This advice was great advice to give when you had a carbureted vehicle. Having not seen one of those since the 80s, it's legacy advice; it is outdated and should not be offered anymore.

IDK about Subaru engines specifically, however many others are "broken in" at the factory; some prior to mating with their chassis.

Here's an article from the late 90s discussing the piston ring theory. It seems more related to higher engine speeds vs. cruise control.
 

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Not keeping the same speed in a vehicle for the first 1000 miles is an excellent idea ... for your carbureted vehicle. According to my "other" boxer engine dealer, this had less to do with maintaining the same speed, and more to do with breaking in the spring(s) and mechanics associated with the carburetor; generating a "flat spot" half way through the throttle opening (from closed to WOT). Drive-by-wire (throttle, at least) as pretty much done away with this.

I think a lot of legacy information has been passed down from generation to generation without substantiating whether or not it is actually necessary... sort of like changing your oil every 3,000 miles.

Besides, unless you live in Texas or some other incredibly flat state, you're probably going to be varying engine speeds @70MPH on a 12hr trip as you ascend/descend hills, go through stoplights for pee breaks, etc.
I suppose the carb flat spot theory is valid but there are still reasons for not driving at a constant speed.

Regardless of the fueling method, varying the load while driving causes thrust loading on the crankshaft and pistons. Allowing new rings to thrust forwards and backwards causes them to "seat" in the bores. Driving at constant speed generates little thrust loading and cylinder bore glazing can take place as a result. Once glazed, it causes poor oil sealing and the engine wil be prone to burn oil from then on.

Modern engines are built to much tighter tolerances and don't need as much break-in but they do need some. As to changing oil early after break-in, I agree that finding metal shavings in the oil is a thing of the past but manufacturers still use assembly lube when they build the engine. I prefer to remove this lube once it mixes in with the oil. Call me old fashioned, or legacy-minded but I go by the simple maximm that an early oil change doesn't hurt and since I keep my cars for a very long time, I'll do whatever it takes to extend the engine's life.

While the OP is past the break-in mileage, it wouldn't hurt to now and then disengage cruise, apply a healthy does of accelerator for a bit and back off, doing this three or four times. I remember an engine builder I spoke with who elieved that the best way to break-in a new engine was to put it in second gear, go full throttle and back off to low RPM, followed by another run. Five or six such runs produced engines that burnt no oil.
 

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2011 Outback 2.5i Premium, CVT, Steel Silver, all-weather package. Upgrades: Tweeter kit, BlueConnect, media hub, remote start, Curt 2" receiver hitch.
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I have found metal shavings in EVERY break in oil filter I have opened. This includes VW, Mercedes, Toyota, and Subaru. Still happens... Every time.
 

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2013 Subaru Outback
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Besides, unless you live in Texas or some other incredibly flat state, you're probably going to be varying engine speeds @70MPH on a 12hr trip as you ascend/descend hills, go through stoplights for pee breaks, etc.
Texas is big, and most of it is not flat, e.g., David Mountains, Guadalupe Mountains, the Hill Country, and even much of the east Texas woodlands.

Also, tell all your friends that Texas is full. We are no longer accepting out-of-state refugees. Yee haw.
 

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2012 OUTBACK 2.5 LIMITED SILVER ICE Metallic, moon and nav free
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With a CVT transmission, the engine is constantly varying RPM's. Don't worry about engine break in. The car probably had double digit numbers on it when you bought it. It is broke in already. Most new high performance custom built engines get a 20 minute cam break in and then go for it after that.
 

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I have found metal shavings in EVERY break in oil filter I have opened. This includes VW, Mercedes, Toyota, and Subaru. Still happens... Every time.
I didn't find any on my late-model BMW but I did on my Toyotas. I always change the oil at 1200 miles; why take a chance?
 

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2013 Outback 3.6R Ltd- Nav, Eyesight, HK, Graphite Gray Metallic
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I've always found this advice confusing, but I got it again from my Subaru dealer - don't use cruise control until 1000 miles, vary your speed. It seems to me that the engine speed, i.e. RPM, is what's important to vary, not mph. Unless the road you're traveling on is totally flat, your rpm changes whenever the road goes uphill or downhill, especially if your CC is holding your mph constant. I used my CC all the time during the first 1K miles, since the roads I travel around here are hilly. Am I wrong about this?
 

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I think part of it is while using CC it can push the RPM's above the 4K mark they want you to avoid exceeding.
 

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2013 Outback 3.6R Ltd- Nav, Eyesight, HK, Graphite Gray Metallic
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I think part of it is while using CC it can push the RPM's above the 4K mark they want you to avoid exceeding.
Aha, very good point
 

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I have never seen a group of car owners SO concerned about break-in periods as we have on this forum...You'd swear we were driving a Ferrari.

Just drive the car people, it won't hurt it.
 

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2013 2.5i Outback Limited w/ moonroof
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Discussion Starter #19
Thanks for the responses - the weather was actually so bad (snow, sleet and rain) that I didn't wind up using cruise control much anyway until the end. 90% of the trip was at 45-50mph on 70mph roads. :(
 

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Is long as your not (red-lining) the engine we will be fine. That manual has us all paranoid, drive it and enjoy.
 
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