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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone!

I have a 2005 Outback 2.5i with a manual transmission and 85k miles. This weekend I was doing what should have been routine brake maintenance - replacing pads and rotors. The brakes have not previously been done.

The issue that I am facing is that the head of lower 17mm bolt securing the caliper mounting bracket sheered off when I tried to remove it. The whole area is heavily rusted. The top bolt came out and it's threads were pretty rusty, so I presume the bottom bolt is even in worse condition. Honestly, everything is pretty much fused together.

So.... I am looking for some options. I don't see much hope in getting the remainder of the bolt extracted, although I can't count out the possibility. Does anyone have any tricks that might work?

Beyond that, I'll have to start backing into the area and replace a bunch of parts. The bracket mounts to the axle housing, so that would ultimately be the thing (as well as a new caliper mounting bracket) that would need replacing. If I need to go that way, I'm hoping for some insight as to what might be involved in that job? Mostly I'm looking to identify all the things that might go wrong so that I can make an educated decision as to whether to engage a shop to do this, or whether I might be able to do it myself.

Fun job! ;)
 

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Master Caster
2005 XT, Mildly Modified...2006 XT Limited, Highly Modifed
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16,151 Posts
Well the caliper hanger and the knuckle need to be replaced. That means you will have to remove:

Strut lower bolts
Ball Joint
CV Axle Spindle at the hub
Wheel Bearing Hub
Brake Dust Shield

Getting the frozen bolt out ... drilling it out if you a Masochist. It will probably take longer than changing everything.
 

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Brucey
'17 3.6
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11,707 Posts
Can you fit a reverse drill bit/broken bolt extractor?

There are different types but the ones that work best for me are the type you drill into the bolt then ram a rod in.

Like one of these. 20 bucks.

The last time I had a broken bolt it was about a half hour to use this to get it out.

I'm not sure if replacing the hub is necessary.

If you do replace it I would look into replacing the ball joints and tie rods if they're original too. At 14 years old they might be due. The wife's bug eye had the ball joints replaced at around 14 years old. (an '02 replaced in '15)

It's possible you can get a junk yard hub assembly and replace pretty cheaply. Replacing with new is gonna be pricey.
 

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Premium Member
03 H6 OBW & 06 WRX Sportwagon
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17,839 Posts
if you won't compromise any important rubber or grease - heat the bolt up with a torch, spray it with Kroil or PB Blaster or 50:50 acetone/ATF after it cools, do that again (avoid breathing fumes and setting fires OK?) - as it cools, it may be able to pull the penetrant in.
 

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Master Caster
2005 XT, Mildly Modified...2006 XT Limited, Highly Modifed
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16,151 Posts
I didn't mean to be negative on "extraction", it can be done.

Brucey is getting good at it.

But we are a talking about a hardened bolt that broke, assumingly because of corroded threads. As 1LT stated, penetrant and it needs time to work. I don't mean an hour, I mean 12. Again heat cycling with MAP gas or Oxygen will be a benefit. Propane will do ZERO good, it doesn't get hot enough.
 

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OBW H6 VDC, Tribeca, XT6
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12,390 Posts
1. left handed machinist grade drill bit and drill it out. take breaks and dab the tip in oil occassionally to keep it cool and sharp. cheap bits won't work.

drilling out the bolt looks less intimidating if you assess the rust and imagine the ball joint, tie rods, axle also being conundrums to remove. if you're unsure - attempt to "partially" remove/move these parts and see if they'll comply.

you'll almost certainly need a new ball joint and tie rod as they are hard to remove and retain the original boots in the rust belt. might as well replace them anyway.

2. take it to a machine shop and have them extract it from the knuckle

3. buy a used knuckle

4. Or - here's probably something only I would do in certain situations, and have done before - drill a 6.9mm hole and tap it to M8x1.25 threads and don't even bother extracting it. Measure the other bolt holes to determine how deep it needs to be - tape your drill bit at that depth and that's your end point. It's just all going to rust weld itself back into place anyway, haha.
 

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2017 2.5i Premium Lapis Blue
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4,356 Posts
One option would be to go ahead and put the new brake pads and rotors and get everything else put back together again, and then just weld what is left of the broken bolt to the knuckle. Then just make sure to sell the car before it comes time to replace the brakes again.



:hide:
 

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Registered
2016 2.5i Outback, 2002 Audi S4 Avant, 1980 CB750F Supersport, 1985 Carrera 3.2
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568 Posts
Same thing happened on 3 bolts of my 2011 STI (1 broke, two came out but stripped the threading clean) . I picked up a heli-coil kit from Oreilly's, which was a bit pricey but cheaper than a replacement upright, and continued to drill the old heads/threading out. Having a drill press helped greatly and the bit I needed to use was the correct size for tapping the threading for the heli-coil. Was a bit involving but was able to finish everything up the following day.

I have also used an acetylene torch to get out broken bolts quite easily without the threading being damaged.
 

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Premium Member
2007 2.5 L Obsidian Black Outback XTL
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602 Posts
One option would be to go ahead and put the new brake pads and rotors and get everything else put back together again, and then just weld what is left of the broken bolt to the knuckle. Then just make sure to sell the car before it comes time to replace the brakes again.
Oooh! You are THAT GUY! :x

I hates you, I hates you to pieces! Nasty elvees with their bright eyes... Lol, sorry I was channeling my inner Gollum.

I think everyone has bought or been gifted "that car". Like the one I was given on my 16th birthday where the paint all washed off the first time it rained... The second one where the radiator was filled with a pound of sawdust to stop the leaks.

Please OM fix it right or replace that part. If not there is a specific circle in **** where the sellers of such cars end up.. (Downstream from the outhouse in the fifth circle where used car salesmen go). 0:)
 

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Master Caster
2005 XT, Mildly Modified...2006 XT Limited, Highly Modifed
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16,151 Posts
Oooh!

I hates you, I hates you to pieces! Nasty elvees with their bright eyes... Lol, sorry I was channeling my inner Gollum.
I was kinda thinking the same thing. But then again, anyone who buys FrankenWagon when I am dead is going to wish they had their chance at me. Cherry isn't far behind. It's a good thing I don't have a welder, I'd be super dangerous.
 

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Premium Member
2007 2.5 L Obsidian Black Outback XTL
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602 Posts
I had been sorely tempted to get a TIG welder but then I decided that I am not "Rosie the Riveter" (world war 2 reference. Another girl who was a mechanical engineering student put that poster up in our dorm. A STEM girls dorm in university.. We always wondered about what way she swung).
Hanging out in the welding store with the guys, chatting about argon gas blends over herbal tea.. Just can't see it.

My limited exposure to the welding store was when I would go buy a D tank of P-10 gas and then to explain to them in how to blend it.

That is one of the gender lines I will leave in place. You guys can own fire, sparks and melty metal.
 

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Premium Member
03 H6 OBW & 06 WRX Sportwagon
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17,839 Posts
melty metal?

my wife had a lot of fun cuttlefish bone casting fine silver

but then, she has experience melting glass.
 
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