[FOX-]

There is a fuse slot under the hood labeled FWD. If a fuse in IN this slot it will turn off the VDC system. The VDC system incorporates a series of sensors to determine the current behavior of the car, if one of these sensors is bad or disconnected I believe it would also cause the system to trip off while still allowing ABS to work. A Subaru Select Monitor could tell you more.

Even with VDC off, the VTD(Variable Torque Distribution) system is still working, which is a huge benefit for the VDC cars.

As for the smoke, the H6 engine is known to leak oil from the front case, valve covers, and oil cooler gasket. There are plenty of topics on all of those here. A lot of people just let them slowly leak.

Next time you look at it, take a look at the muffler. There should a bulb piped out of the side of it. This is a bypass valve designed for the H6 engine and was the original muffler that came with the car.

Where are you located? A car like that here would quickly sell for $5k. If you weren't in a hurry you could probably get $8k for it.

-Tim

 

[RedGeminiPA]

There is a fuse slot under the hood labeled FWD. If a fuse in IN this slot it will turn off the VDC system. The VDC system incorporates a series of sensors to determine the current behavior of the car, if one of these sensors is bad or disconnected I believe it would also cause the system to trip off while still allowing ABS to work. A Subaru Select Monitor could tell you more.

Even with VDC off, the VTD(Variable Torque Distribution) system is still working, which is a huge benefit for the VDC cars.

As for the smoke, the H6 engine is known to leak oil from the front case, valve covers, and oil cooler gasket. There are plenty of topics on all of those here. A lot of people just let them slowly leak.

Next time you look at it, take a look at the muffler. There should a bulb piped out of the side of it. This is a bypass valve designed for the H6 engine and was the original muffler that came with the car.

Where are you located? A car like that here would quickly sell for $5k. If you weren't in a hurry you could probably get $8k for it.

-Tim

I'm in Altoona, PA - Outbacks usually fetch a premium here as well, but as I said, the dealer is a very fair guy.

So, it's possible there could be a fuse IN the FWD slot? Could the previous owner have done this to possibly get better gas mileage? Could this trip the Check Engine light for an O2 sensor?

Yes, the muffler has the bulbous looking thing coming out of the side of it.

I hope if there are any leaks, he'll take care of them. He's very picky about leaks.

 

[FOX-]

If there is a fuse in the slot, removing it would be a simple and free solution to your VDC light. It's doubtful, but a possibility and I like to start with the simple things. A fuse in that slot, even with the normal automatics, does not improve fuel economy, but there are other reason someone might want to disable VDC. I doubt it would cause on O2 code, that's probably a separate issue.

The oil cooler is a simple leak to fix, the valve covers are a bit harder and the front case is a royal PITA. To give you an idea: I had a shop replace my timing chains, tensioners, guides, oil pump and water pump. To get to all of those you have to remove that front cover. Just to remove it and then reseal it when they were done cost me ~$1400 in labor. It's not an easy job. There are several dozen allen head bolts that need to be removed, each one a different length. Usually the radiator has to be pulled or the engine has to be removed depending on how patient your mechanic is. 15k miles later and mine is slowly leaking again, and it will continue to because I will not be removing it again.

-Tim

 

[RedGeminiPA]

If there is a fuse in the slot, removing it would be a simple and free solution to your VDC light. It's doubtful, but a possibility and I like to start with the simple things. A fuse in that slot, even with the normal automatics, does not improve fuel economy, but there are other reason someone might want to disable VDC. I doubt it would cause on O2 code, that's probably a separate issue.

The oil cooler is a simple leak to fix, the valve covers are a bit harder and the front case is a royal PITA. To give you an idea: I had a shop replace my timing chains, tensioners, guides, oil pump and water pump. To get to all of those you have to remove that front cover. Just to remove it and then reseal it when they were done cost me ~$1400 in labor. It's not an easy job. There are several dozen allen head bolts that need to be removed, each one a different length. Usually the radiator has to be pulled or the engine has to be removed depending on how patient your mechanic is. 15k miles later and mine is slowly leaking again, and it will continue to because I will not be removing it again.

-Tim

I just talked to him. He said the valve covers have very minor seepage, and he's going to see if they may just need tightened a bit. He's also going to steam down the underside of the engine, as it appears it's never been cleaned quite that good. Everything else is dry - no other leaks. He also ordered the O2 sensor - driver side. It should be in today, and he'll get it in. He said a tie rod and CV boot were also replaced yesterday. It's going for state inspection this afternoon.

He called the Subaru dealer, and the tech said there's a switch hidden somewhere for the '01 VDC system. The tech is supposed to find out exactly where it is and call him back. I know this is contrary to what I've read on here. He is going to check for a fuse in the FWD slot.

He's still amazed by the condition of this Outback for the miles. And yes, it has a new Subaru muffler on it, and the rest of the exhaust looks excellent.

 

[cardoc]

Does the MIL/CEL work? If there is a code stored that deals with engine performance, the VDC light will be on due to an issue related to its operation. It comes on when temperature exceeds 215F, cam codes, map codes, crank codes, etc....

The VDC uses the engine and transmission controls along with ABS function to control the vehicle. It could be a fuse inserted in the FWD/VDC OFF slot, but could be internal.

The EZ30D is a tough engine. When taken care of, expect a really long life.

And when/if something happens, they are relatively easy to repair.

 

[RedGeminiPA]

Does the MIL/CEL work? If there is a code stored that deals with engine performance, the VDC light will be on due to an issue related to its operation. It comes on when temperature exceeds 215F, cam codes, map codes, crank codes, etc....

The VDC uses the engine and transmission controls along with ABS function to control the vehicle. It could be a fuse inserted in the FWD/VDC OFF slot, but could be internal.

The EZ30D is a tough engine. When taken care of, expect a really long life.

And when/if something happens, they are relatively easy to repair.

Thanks cardoc.

The light does work. I'm not sure of the actual code number, but it came up O2 Bank 2 sensor 1. Initially, an O2 heater circuit fault was listed, too. After the codes were cleared, only the O2 Bank 2 Sensor 1 reappeared.

He should have the new sensor installed, or will be doing so this morning. Hopefully that clears up the VDC OFF light. He got a new direct fit sensor from NAPA for around $160. He said he hasn't had a lot of luck using universals, so he doesn't buy them anymore.

We both thought it seemed odd that after he cleared the codes (several times), the VDC OFF light didn't come back on until a split second after the CE light. This was happening while the engine was cold.

He should be calling me today about picking it up.

Is it odd to be excited about trading a car that's 4 years newer with 100k less miles for this VDC?

That's what I'll be doing... trading my '05 Saturn Vue Red Line AWD (Honda 3.5 V6 and 5-speed auto) with 125k on it. My Vue is more unique, but I'm sold on the overall quality of the VDC. Plus, I think the H6 will get a little better gas mileage, which is my main reason for doing this.

 

[RedGeminiPA]

I talked to him today. The lights are staying out since he did the O2 sensor. He said it will need valve cover gaskets, but they're not bad right now.

It'll also need tires next year, but they're still decent for now.

I should be getting it tomorrow.

 

[Performance Suby]

Just out of curiosity, what type of tires are you running and where do you have the dry rot? (sidewall, between tread etc)

 

[RedGeminiPA]

Just out of curiosity, what type of tires are you running and where do you have the dry rot? (sidewall, between tread etc)

I'm not sure what brand they are. It was more in the tread.

 

[idosubaru]

Replace the spark plugs and valve cover gaskets at the same time. Plugs are very tricky on this motor and way easier with the valve covers removed.

Probably a matter of time before those gaskets need replaced, they're just common on most vehicles with any age/mileage on them.

Also - the CV's spray grease which burns off the exhaust.

*** The serpentine tensioner pulley bearings fail all the time on these engines. I would replace the bearings in both of them right now. The bearings are $5 each and take 15 minutes to replace. Super easy.

His comments about headgaskets and timing belts won't matter for this engine - the headgaskets aren't issues on the H6 (big issues on the H4's) and the H6 engines don't have timing belts.

$3,000 should be a great price for that condition too.

 

[RedGeminiPA]

Replace the spark plugs and valve cover gaskets at the same time. Plugs are very tricky on this motor and way easier with the valve covers removed.

Probably a matter of time before those gaskets need replaced, they're just common on most vehicles with any age/mileage on them.

Also - the CV's spray grease which burns off the exhaust.

*** The serpentine tensioner pulley bearings fail all the time on these engines. I would replace the bearings in both of them right now. The bearings are $5 each and take 15 minutes to replace. Super easy.

His comments about headgaskets and timing belts won't matter for this engine - the headgaskets aren't issues on the H6 (big issues on the H4's) and the H6 engines don't have timing belts.

$3,000 should be a great price for that condition too.

That's what I was thinking. He just replaced one of the CV boots due to a light tear, and a tie rod end.

What is a good spark plug to use? I used the OEM Denso Iridium plugs in my Honda-powered Saturn Vue.

The only issue I'll have this time of year for doing certain things is decent weather, since I don't have a garage.

I could easily see this car priced around $5,000 based on condition alone. I'd never expect to find one this clean with those miles, especially in the snow belt.

 

[CNY_Dave]

Plugs? Stock.

 

[idosubaru]

+1 to Dave above - stick with original plugs, whatever the manual/Subaru says.

 

[RedGeminiPA]

What are the stock plugs? With 225k on it, who knows what plugs are in it?

 

[RedGeminiPA]

I sold the Saturn to a different dealer for more money. I ended up getting this VDC for $3,300 + fees.

The steering wheel now wobbles above 60-65 or so. It didn't do that before when I drove it. He did rotate the Firestone tires on it. Between doing that and the new tie rod end, I think new tires and an alignment will cure that.

Something new after I got gas yesterday: the CEL came on - P0420 Bank 1. That code wasn't coming up before, and he replaced the front O2 in Bank 2. I'm going to check out the PCV valve soon. That seems to be a likely culprit from what I've read on here. Since he replaced the O2, the VDC OFF light hasn't come back on, only during startup for systems check.

He did say the valve cover that was seeping had a bolt that was about 1/2 turn loose. Maybe that'll stop the seepage until I can get them replaced.

I'll try to get some pics soon.