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opps, oil is down below the first little hole... looks like a lawsuit was filed and won.

now i have to figure out how to get the dealer to honor the results of the lawsuit...

...or just keep putting in oil very month.
 

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2010 Outback 3.6R 2014 Legacy 2.5i 2003 Legacy L special edition (retired to backup)
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opps, oil is down below the first little hole... looks like a lawsuit was filed and won.

now i have to figure out how to get the dealer to honor the results of the lawsuit...

...or just keep putting in oil very month.
as long as you made the claim within the warranty period they should honor it.
 

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I have a 2012 3.6 and a 2014 2.5. Finally got around to taking them in for the airbag recall. Sadly I found that the 2014 2.5 is in need of a head gasket and oil an gasket. The 2012 went in to a different dealer for the airbag recall, Come to find out we have been told BOTH are in needed of a head gasket. The dealer that did 2012 airbag, came back with a laundry list of items needing "immediate" attention. The 2012 is at 107K and the 2014 is at 74K. HIGHLY disappointed as I had read the head gasket issues had been resolved. So on the 2014, my extended warranty is on for 7 yrs 100K. I was advised to work with Subaru direct first. They did respond quickly to the diagnosis, however they are only willing to cover $1400 of the $2800 estimate. While I was waiting on the diagnosis, I actually test drove the 2020 Forester and the Outback. Outback by far is a superior vehicle of those 2, however I'm not sure I am willing to risk buying something that will require MAJOR engine work every 5-6 years.

SO disappointed.
 

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^ you and I are in the same boat with the 2014... but I got SOA involved and it is being worked out.
 

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2010 Outback 3.6R 2014 Legacy 2.5i 2003 Legacy L special edition (retired to backup)
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Got a 2010 3.6R premium for $8500. they normally go for about $10-11K here.

things you need to look for on a used outback 3.6R after you drive it about 30 miles or so.

1. suspension noises, there is a reason my car was $8500. Thankfully about $350 in parts has resolved that issue. (new OEM control arms, bushings, end links)

2. does the transmission shift well when cold and hot? If not, RUNNNNN FORREST RUNNNNN!!!!

3. connect a OBDII tool and check to make sure all of the readiness monitors have passed and that there are no pending codes. If not, move along, you got potential issues.

4. are all of the tires the same brand and age/wear?

5. these cars wear diapers under the engine bay so you will need to have the car inspected by a reputable mechanic
if you are unable to do the inspection yourself for leaks.

6. open the hood, does it smell like any fluid or burning fluid?

fluid visible check

power steering should be red
coolant is either green or blue (Subaru now uses the blue coolant)
brake fluid should not be so dark you cannot see light through it

hose check

is the intake on tight? is it stock? if not, move along.

7. does the engine run smoothly, if not, move along, could be plugs, could be something else

8. remove push pins on air duct and then remove duct and check air filter, does it look nasty? Prolly should move along as what else are they holding off on?

If you buy the car

1. take it straight for an oil change.

2. you are going to have to service EVERY SINGLE FLUID regardless of mileage... unless the previous owner hands you a super stack of service maintenance work done, consider it not done. Will cost you around $150-200 if you use al OEM stuff (coolant, brake fluid, ATF, differential) and about 40% if you go aftermarket.

on my car that I bought I have replaced

engine oil
trans fluid
power steering fluid
differential fluid
new tires
new end links front and rear
new sway bar bushings front and rear
new center caps (some were missing)
new air filter
new cabin filter
new serpentine belt

it had newish brake fluid due to newish brakes so I will service it in the spring when it gets warmer outside, ditto for the coolant. finally I will tackle the spark plugs (what a pitb)

I will also be putting on newer lower control arms as a complete assembly and new smart strut assemblies for a 13-14 in the spring (all 4 corners)
 

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^ you and I are in the same boat with the 2014... but I got SOA involved and it is being worked out.
A pair of 2014 vehicles with FB engines needing head gaskets? Really?? What are the symptoms? Internal or external leaks? Oil or coolant?
 

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2010 Outback 3.6R 2014 Legacy 2.5i 2003 Legacy L special edition (retired to backup)
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in my case we will find out. tech stated they were not sure if it was coolant and oil. car is schedule for next Tuesday. SOA is chipping in 750 towards repair...that will cost about $850...
 

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2010 Outback 3.6R 2014 Legacy 2.5i 2003 Legacy L special edition (retired to backup)
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update, reseal fixed the oil leak no HG issues

to add to what you would look for in a used outback... the 3.6R comes with a water to oil cooler and that front pipe that runs under the engine is very prone to corrosion. I am replacing mine (parts on order)
 

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Do yourself a favor, don't buy one with a CVT unless you want to roll the dice on a several thousand dollar replacement. If I had known about the CVT issues and the repair cost, I would not have bought my 2012. As good as it is, and it is a good car, 9k for a CVT is outrageous.
 

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all these HG issues have me concerned! I've seen bad HGs on other vehicles before but never on a opposed engine, this being my first. I have a 2014 2.5 CVT with about 94k miles. what are they symptoms?

what i've noticed is just how much oil the engine consumes; more than any other car i've owned and i've owned lots of older cars with bad valve seals that didn't consume this much. thank God for the oil low light, which has turned on twice early in my ownership during long highway drives. now i check the oil level once a month as a precaution and end up adding up to half a quart at a time. is this a bad HG? could just be the nature of the engine?

i also hear a lot of what sounds like rod knock during dead stop starts, and this isn't even while flooring it - just normal acceleration application...not comforting at all!
 

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the FB motors do not have any passages for coolant between the head and the block. head gasket failure is not a known issue with the FB2.X motors
 

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Hi All,

I've been looking to dump my '14 Escape 2.0L turbo recently and recently saw a 2013 Outback 2.5 Limited for sale. It's a former corporate car and has 196k miles and is going for 5990. The dealership has a free carfax and you can see it's been serviced regularly every 2-3 months at 4-5k mile intervals. That's been the case in the last 3ish years it looks like. Can't tell what its life was like in the first few years or so as there's not really any records besides the DMV and emissions. I know these cars can run for quite some time and I'm looking to test drive it but don't want to be wasting my time on it if it isn't worth the trip out there. https://www.carfax.com/VehicleHistory/p/Report.cfx?partner=DEY_0&vin=4S4BRBLC8D3273607. I am planning on getting an independent mechanic to look it over prior to buying it. Pictures of it look good and it seems to be taken care of.

Full disclosure. I bought my Escape 5 years ago and made a mistake in financing. I'm still paying for it. I have about a year left. It was used at the time. I didn't have the down payment that I should have had. I've learned my lesson now on that part. However, 2+ years ago, I started to work for the state of PA and now mainly take the train into Center City Philly. My drive used to be 25 miles one way when I worked in healthcare doing IT but since the job change, I drive probably a mile to mile and a half to the train. The Escape has the 19" wheels which just make the ride rough. While I love the power of the 2.0 turbo, there's nothing eco about it. Gas mileage was pretty poor on it as well. Even with the long drive that was through the countryside, it would still get 19~20 mpg. Now that I'm all city driving with light traffic that's down to 17~18 I think. I can't really tell. I've had to already replace the Sync 2 system, thankfully under warranty. Don't get my wrong, I don't mind the car. It is decent but I'm looking for a bit more of comfort out of an SUV and shed some dead weight from my finances.

Thoughts? Concerns I should look for?
 

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Head gasket, head gasket, head gasket has it been replaced if it's a 2.5 l h4. I think the 2013 with an H4 still has a timing belt, has that work been done also the alternator and starter if it's an H4. These are the major issues I have had with my 2010 but I'm still driving the car with 202,000 klm and it's in good shape and a pleasure to drive.
 

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In my research, the 2013 got a refresh with the FB motor. It has a timing chain and the newer tr580 CVT. But yes, head gasket is certainly in my mind. According to the carfax service, there was a drive belt recently replaced maybe 10k miles ago. I'm assuming that would be the serpentine belt up front.

I'm still wondering about the CVT and worried that's what might grenade on me first.

That is very encouraging that yours is lasting a long time and holding up.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
 

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One other thing was the oil pressure sending unit leaked, it sits on top of the engine and dripped oil onto the exhaust causing a lot of smoke. 30 bucks Canadian and a large socket fixed it, but if I wanted to burn the car I could have left it.🤣
 

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Head gasket, head gasket, head gasket has it been replaced if it's a 2.5 l h4. I think the 2013 with an H4 still has a timing belt, has that work been done also the alternator and starter if it's an H4. These are the major issues I have had with my 2010 but I'm still driving the car with 202,000 klm and it's in good shape and a pleasure to drive.
2013+ are all FB 2.5L and they are timing chain...
 
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