The new owner of a 2012 Outback! Thank you for the great links and information. pics coming soon.
I have a 2012 3.6 and a 2014 2.5. Finally got around to taking them in for the airbag recall. Sadly I found that the 2014 2.5 is in need of a head gasket and oil an gasket. The 2012 went in to a different dealer for the airbag recall, Come to find out we have been told BOTH are in needed of a head gasket. The dealer that did 2012 airbag, came back with a laundry list of items needing "immediate" attention. The 2012 is at 107K and the 2014 is at 74K. HIGHLY disappointed as I had read the head gasket issues had been resolved. So on the 2014, my extended warranty is on for 7 yrs 100K. I was advised to work with Subaru direct first. They did respond quickly to the diagnosis, however they are only willing to cover $1400 of the $2800 estimate. While I was waiting on the diagnosis, I actually test drove the 2020 Forester and the Outback. Outback by far is a superior vehicle of those 2, however I'm not sure I am willing to risk buying something that will require MAJOR engine work every 5-6 years.
I just bought a one owner 2013 outback base model. Nothing to report yet.
I wish there were more rugged kayak tie downs.
How many miles on carGot a 2010 3.6R premium for $8500. they normally go for about $10-11K here.
things you need to look for on a used outback 3.6R after you drive it about 30 miles or so.
1. suspension noises, there is a reason my car was $8500. Thankfully about $350 in parts has resolved that issue. (new OEM control arms, bushings, end links)
2. does the transmission shift well when cold and hot? If not, RUNNNNN FORREST RUNNNNN!!!!
3. connect a OBDII tool and check to make sure all of the readiness monitors have passed and that there are no pending codes. If not, move along, you got potential issues.
4. are all of the tires the same brand and age/wear?
5. these cars wear diapers under the engine bay so you will need to have the car inspected by a reputable mechanic
if you are unable to do the inspection yourself for leaks.
6. open the hood, does it smell like any fluid or burning fluid?
fluid visible check
power steering should be red
coolant is either green or blue (Subaru now uses the blue coolant)
brake fluid should not be so dark you cannot see light through it
is the intake on tight? is it stock? if not, move along.
7. does the engine run smoothly, if not, move along, could be plugs, could be something else
8. remove push pins on air duct and then remove duct and check air filter, does it look nasty? Prolly should move along as what else are they holding off on?
If you buy the car
1. take it straight for an oil change.
2. you are going to have to service EVERY SINGLE FLUID regardless of mileage... unless the previous owner hands you a super stack of service maintenance work done, consider it not done. Will cost you around $150-200 if you use al OEM stuff (coolant, brake fluid, ATF, differential) and about 40% if you go aftermarket.
on my car that I bought I have replaced
power steering fluid
new end links front and rear
new sway bar bushings front and rear
new center caps (some were missing)
new air filter
new cabin filter
new serpentine belt
it had newish brake fluid due to newish brakes so I will service it in the spring when it gets warmer outside, ditto for the coolant. finally I will tackle the spark plugs (what a pitb)
I will also be putting on newer lower control arms as a complete assembly and new smart strut assemblies for a 13-14 in the spring (all 4 corners)
The vehicle has one previous owner. They bought it from the dealership that is selling it now. All the service records were done on the vehicle at that dealership and the carfax shows it.Have you obtained the service records? These are indeed great bang-for-the-buck vehicles but you want to ensure that the oil & filter changes were done as specified.
All that is to say, I don't trust Subaru service departments as far as you can throw 'em. They are trying to create service work where there's no need whatsoever.
I have a 2012 Outback 3.6r Premium - I just replaced my 225/60/R17 With the Wildpeak AT3W 245/65/R17.While the added height, while not much of a difference, is nice for off-roading I would stick with the stock size. The manufacture designed the car for 225/60R17 so it will keep you speedometer fairly accurate, plus your suspension angles may be slightly off by using a different size tire causing abnormal wear or steering feel.
Looking at a 2011 with a manual transmission frees you from some of the issues presented by the CVT. Since the car IS ten years old, I’d seriously consider changing the timing belt, water pump, belt tensioner, and idler pulley(ies). Use genuine Subaru parts, or the Aisin kit and avoid Gates belts as they tend to fail. You might also consider changing the serpentine belt and idler pulley unless you know those have been changed. Again, no Gates belts. If you can get ahold of service records for the car, that would be a plus.Hello...New here...I've wanted a Subaru for some time now. Looking at purchasing a 2011 Outback Premium with 2.5i and 6 sp manual trans, 71K miles. Any advice or things to look for before this purchase? thanks.
Thanks for the informationLooking at a 2011 with a manual transmission frees you from some of the issues presented by the CVT. Since the car IS ten years old, I’d seriously consider changing the timing belt, water pump, belt tensioner, and idler pulley(ies). Use genuine Subaru parts, or the Aisin kit and avoid Gates belts as they tend to fail. You might also consider changing the serpentine belt and idler pulley unless you know those have been changed. Again, no Gates belts. If you can get ahold of service records for the car, that would be a plus.