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Discussion Starter #1
What’s different between the california models and the federal emissions models? I see they have different gasket sets for doing a head gasket job, I need to order head gaskets tomorrow and trying to figure this out. I’ll be honest, I searched but didn’t look too hard.


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Discussion Starter #3
Ah yes, crucial information I didn’t give you guys. Sorry

It’s an 07 OB 2.5 non turbo, so I’m guessing that qualifies as an “I”?


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You should have "unified" emissions by 2007. 2005 was weird in that the "Cali emissions" (U5 code) had a different exhaust and intake gaskets that would not be compatible with Fed emissions cars (hence the different part numbers for a "head gasket set").

But by 2007, all the 2.5L OB were PZEV cars and were build the same way (engine-wise).

For reference, HS26415PT1 is a good/correct number for a FelPro set.
 

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What’s different between the california models and the federal emissions models? I see they have different gasket sets for doing a head gasket job, I need to order head gaskets tomorrow and trying to figure this out. I’ll be honest, I searched but didn’t look too hard.


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what I think has happened based on your pics, someone prior to you has dropped in a different EJ253 than was originally in the car, as they have taken a silver marker and crossed off the emissions sticker like that information is no longer valid.

(maybe they dropped it in without doing any work to it, ...going from the original engine that was seized to a running car again,...although all 2000-2009 plain jane EJ25 will need head gaskets from oil leaks)

what is wrong with the car now that you need head gasket work?
(external oil leaks dripping on the ground/ hot exhaust? external coolant leaks dripping on the ground / exhaust?
exhaust gases in the coolant? coolant leaking out the exhaust? )

be specific. type all you want. (as it will define if the engine is fixable with a typical head gasket job, vs. spending $1500-2000 on something that is not fixable).

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if you buy head gaskets: the ones to buy are the better ones for the EJ255 turbo ( 11044AA642 X2 for a pair), that are multilayer steel vs. the junk that they sell for typical EJ253 (for them to leak again).
https://www.amazon.com/Subaru-Gasket-04-06-Legacy-Forester/dp/B01ED8AZYU/

the rest of the head gasket kit is rubber gaskets for all the other oil seals,

and these EJ253 engines "need" their heads machined. (like just honed smooth in a pro machine shop, but no other work).
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I’m getting the heads machined, have a buddy at an engine shop, the passenger side is leaking oil externally and compression leaking into water jacket causing overheating and over flow, excessive air in the cooling system after a short test drive even after burping the system multiple times.

It didn’t dawn on me when taking the picture that it is not the original hood. I refused to buy anything other than a MLS head gasket anyway, just trying to find the proper set so I can have it here by the weekend! I will be doing valve guide seals and pan gasket while I’m at it, may even replace the oil sump pickup as preventative maintenance.


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seeing as how your buddy has a machine shop make sure the short block and heads are perfectly smooth for the MLS gaskets.

not sure if it will turn out, what with the exhaust gases into the coolant, but worth a try.

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don't rush the job. you can easily land yourself in buying expensive parts, rush shipping, wrong parts,

and then overheating / and melting the newly installed engine fast. (happens here....and then all your work is for nothing, ...while you look for a new engine to do it all over again)..
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Supposedly they have some kind of bit that leaves the desired surface texture for head gaskets to seal properly from what the manufactures require. I’m not really worried about the block for machining but I can check it for warp myself.

Driver side was done before I bought the car, the guy pulled the engine and never did the passenger side, so I plan on doing both so I know what was done and that I’m satisfied with the work. I’m a diesel and equipment mechanics. I just do all my own work if I can since they all work on the same principles.


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I know this has gotten a little off topic from the title, but I got the heads off today, the guy before me never machined the head at all. The passenger side he tried to get the valve cover off and quickly gave up because about 3 of the bolts were stripped at the head.

Got the heads off after fighting the rounded bolts for a while. Passenger side head had a spot from cylinder to water jacket where the gasket separated, also the oil galleys were showing signs of the external leaking, I’m hoping to have the heads back monday.

Another thing the PO lied to me about was the timing kit with water pump and all the pulleys that he said he did. I pulled the cover and there was cracks in the belt.... I hate liars!!!!


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Another thing the PO lied to me about was the timing kit with water pump and all the pulleys that he said he did. I pulled the cover and there was cracks in the belt.... I hate liars!!!!
Maybe the lesson out of this is to make sure you see receipts for all of the work that is stated to be performed, and that it lists part numbers.

Then follow up with a pre-purchase inspection by someone independent and knowledgeable. Give them copies of the paperwork so they know where to cross-check the work.

There are still no absolute ironclad guarantees with this approach, but it is a petty sure bet that the work was done.

I have noted that there is a strong correlation between sellers stating the absolute truth, and also having the proper paperwork on hand and in order for you to inspect - sometimes without me even asking. One can argue cause and effect here, but it's probably because the seller understands he's in a stronger position if he can convince buyers it's all as he says it is.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I’m not so much mad that I had to do the work, I bought the car for $800, I’m more upset the guy lied to my face. I work in a shop and have all the tools needed and the know how for the most part. Just not the machining, thankfully I have a friend to do the heads for me.


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Discussion Starter #16
My buddy that machined the heads said the drivers side head that just had the head gasket done was warped with a nice bow in the middle between cylinders. And the passenger side was warped and had a low spot in the corner right where my oil was sealing out of the head and the head gasket delaminated around the combustion ring. He also stated these heads have never been machined before and were still at the original height. Now they have been cut down 5thou.

Got them bolted in and torqued in proper sequence which was a pain in the car trying to get the lower rear head bolts.




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Discussion Starter #17
Can someone tell me where the line is suppose to hook up to? Passenger side of the block



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