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So I have a 2000 Subaru legacy outback with the 2.5. replace my radiator back in August and just ran across some overheating problems and would have to bang on the thermostat and the car would go back to normal and I could drive again for a couple days until the thermostat guy sucks So eventually I ended up changing out the thermostat. Now that I changed out the thermostat and the hoses my car will get heat as I'm doing the burp process stay at normal temperature and then I start to drive and the temperature from heater drops and the car overheats within 60 seconds. I used a radiator sealant into it today. And again I got amazing heat while at idle and then as soon as I started to go and get higher RPMs I would overheat. So did I not burp it correctly? And I've done every method... is the thermostat not opening? Bottom hose is cool top hose is hot..... Or is this a water pump issue ? Please help. I just want back on the road 馃ぃ
 

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2009 Subaru Outback 3.0R Limited
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First, has this Outback already had its head gaskets done? How many miles on the car?

If your lower rad hose is cool, you're not getting good flow through the radiator. Since you've had your radiator replaced I assume you can rule it out. Is the new thermostat a genuine Subaru thermostat? It needs to be. While you can find aftermarkets ones that will work, simply going to a parts store to get one is not the way to go. The radiator cap also needs to be the correct spec: 1.1bar.

And yes, burping is critical.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yes Its an OEM Tstat. So I must have a lodge of air somewhere in the system?

What's the best way I've jacked it up. Let it run with no cap.. should I take top hose off and fill from there? And if so do I add coolant to the hose or radiator? There's no bleeding valve ..
 

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2009 Subaru Outback 3.0R Limited
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142 Posts
The most common way I know is to have a spill-free funnel on the radiator. There are many good videos on YouTube about how to do it. I would check out MrSubaru1387 on YouTube.

But that still leaves the question about the head gaskets.
 

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2011 Outback 2.5i, 6M
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102 Posts
Internal HG leak from cylinder to water jacket can cause a bubble to form right behind the tstat. The pocket of combustion gasses don't hit enough temperature to open the tstat, so you get them symptoms you have.

Have you run a HG leak test yet?
 

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2019 Subaru Outback 3.6R Limited
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87 Posts
So I have a 2000 Subaru legacy outback with the 2.5. replace my radiator back in August and just ran across some overheating problems and would have to bang on the thermostat and the car would go back to normal and I could drive again for a couple days until the thermostat guy sucks So eventually I ended up changing out the thermostat. Now that I changed out the thermostat and the hoses my car will get heat as I'm doing the burp process stay at normal temperature and then I start to drive and the temperature from heater drops and the car overheats within 60 seconds. I used a radiator sealant into it today. And again I got amazing heat while at idle and then as soon as I started to go and get higher RPMs I would overheat. So did I not burp it correctly? And I've done every method... is the thermostat not opening? Bottom hose is cool top hose is hot..... Or is this a water pump issue ? Please help. I just want back on the road 馃ぃ
The radiator sealant, or what I usually call stop leak, is what concerns me here. It sounds like there could be a restriction in the cooling system somewhere, and stop leak only really tends to make things worse in the long term.

How does the coolant look? Is it clean? Any debris floating in it? Signs of rust or other contaminants?
 
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