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2013 Outback 2.5i Premium 6MT
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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2013 with the (rare) 6MT, and I was very surprised that my clutch has failed with just over 80k on the clock (bad throw out bearing). We don't ride the clutch, so I really don't think this is operator error. I would have expected this to last at least twice as long, but is lifespan normal?
 

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2013 Outback Premium - 6spd manual
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Sorry for what you are experiencing. My 2013 6MT is at 102k and the clutch is fine. When SOA gave me a new engine at 65k due to oil consumption, I told them to check the clutch and replace if needed while they had everything apart. They said it looked just fine and so far, they have been correct!

Hope this helps. Good luck.
 

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2002 Pair: 3.0 VDC Wag & 2.5 Limited Sedan
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26,194 Posts
was a portion of the 80,000 miles urban stop and go type?

I would think some of that wear to failure is how many times the clutch is used. (like if it were purely highway with little shifting at all,...it would go longer).
 

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2013 Outback 2.5i Premium 6MT
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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the replies. I also had a new short block about 25k ago (warranty replacement / oil consumption), and while I didn't specifically ask about the clutch, the dealer did not mention anything. I like the car, but I have not been pleased with the reliability. Not horrible, but it was my first Subaru and I really expected better.
 

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2011 2.5 premium 6-speed
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I total feel for you. My 2011 failed a couple years ago at just over 60K. Clutch and flywheel had plenty of wear left but a sub-par $50 bearing requires large expensive repair. SOA chipped in a little bit to my dealer to reduce my cost a little. It wasn't close to being fully covered nor close to the $8000 CVT replacements some have been getting. It was very frustrating because I went with a manual to try to lessen chances of a transmission failure and reduce maintenance.
 

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OBW H6 VDC, Tribeca, XT6
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I like the car, but I have not been pleased with the reliability. Not horrible, but it was my first Subaru and I really expected better.
Sorry, that is no fun at all jumping through all those hurdles. Excessive for those miles, for sure.

It really comes down to one simple fact - MT's require a part which has a significant and irreducible failure rate - an unlubricated, sealed bearing in the throw out bearing. It's an unfortunate fact of MT's. The failure rates are low, but being a sealed bearing it's an unavoidable "significant" failure rate, particularly those getting a good work out. There's also a pilot bearing - same thing - it's sealed as well. So there's two lacking points on an MT. AT bearings are all lubricated constantly and get fresh fluid with every change.

It's like backpacking in the wilderness - you gotta take everything possible with you. It's possible but it's gonna run out and not be the most forgiving situation known to man. Same thing here - that bearing is trying to take with it, and retain, all the grease it'll ever need for millions of revolutions. There's going to be widely varying results.

80k is low, but I am not at all surprised regardless of the manufacturer. Honda's - Toyota's - you name it, they fail and at *widely varying* mileages, including very low mileages. Again - because it's a sealed bearing which are not ideal just based on natural laws of physics and satistics.

Design an inexpensive sealed bearing that doesn't loose or compromise grease over time and you'll need a very large bank to house your cash flow.

Without finding a way to regrease it there's simply no way to avoid that risk of an MT. Some vehicles like Unimogs have procedures for greasing the bearing insitu for this very reason.
 

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I don't know .. especially in regards to the replies that I am seeing. Most of my Subaru experience has been related to the old BRAT's from the early 80's with tiny engines and 4 sp manuals.... those were/are so different to the modern cars that my experiences with them aren't relevant. Other than that I've been able to live vicariously through family members that have bought new modern subarus..both AT and MTs.
Here's what I know based on what I've owned and driven:
1976 ford mustang, failed clutch at 46K (sold long ago)
1984 nissan stanza 160K oem clutch..though there was an issue with the clutch cable.. it was mechanical (don't remember) whereas the BMWs use hydralics for their clutch actuation mechanism
1985 BMW 535i 240K still has oem clutch (this car is still driven)
1987 BMW 325i 145K still has oem clutch (this car is still driven)
1991 BMW 535i 198 K replaced clutch due to worn T/O bearing (sold long ago)
all three (above) were/are driven HARD, by that I mean the engine is revved high and the clutch is dropped between gears..(just because it's fun and I like to hear the tires chirp between 1st & 2nd). The previous owner of the 1991 535i did ride the clutch at traffic lights....
1996 BMW 328i 160k had the oem clutch .. (sold long ago)
2001 BMW Z3 2.8 150K had oem clutch (sold long ago)

All of these cars were/daily drivers when they used.. the 87, really hasn't been driven that much since the late 90s but up to that point it was driven daily in stop and go traffic in the big city.. The 85 stop and go and was the first car for a new driver who learned to drive in it

I think there is an issue with subaru and their clutch design, the problem is there may be too few M/Ts to get a good statistical sampling. I'd be really interested in a reliability survey of both subaru mt owners and Toyota owners..

Based on what I reading about the subaru (engine oil) and clutch.. makes me think the grief of owning BMWs isn't so bad
 

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2011 Legacy GT SSM
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I have 67k on the GT (have only had it for 3 weeks). Been wondering lately how long the clutch last in these cars. I don't hammer on my cars and the PO took care if it.
 

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I have 67k on the GT (have only had it for 3 weeks). Been wondering lately how long the clutch last in these cars. I don't hammer on my cars and the PO took care if it.
if you needed clutch related work in 10k or 100k i wouldn't be surprised by either one like you might with many other items. It's a gradual curve, not a range or mileage. they can need attention at 50k or after 200k.
 

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OK, lemme ask this of those that know these cars mechanically better than I do. How does the anti-rollback mechanism work? are there electronics that are keeping the clutch partway engaged, in which case the TOB is partially engaged with the clutch fingers (resulting in friction and heat)? Or more specifically, if you are on a hill, and you have the car in neutral and your foot is off the clutch what's causing the car not to roll back if your foot is not on the brake? Does this mechanism work differently if your foot is on the brake? Or, I suppose the other option is does the anti rollback feature work the brake mechanism in which case the clutch TOB is not engaged?
 

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The anti-rollback systems are not keeping the clutch partially engaged. They are keeping the brakes engaged when sensors determine the vehicle is on an angle and the clutch is disengaged.

Should not have any impact on the life of the clutch or throw out bearing.

Bearings wear out, clutches wear out. Can happen any time in life of a manual transmission vehicle. Replace the failed part and drive on.

Expecting a clutch assembly to last more than 150k miles is pretty optimistic.
 

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2011 Legacy GT SSM
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Since this thread is about possibly replacing the clutch, what is the average cost to have a shop do it?
 

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Since this thread is about possibly replacing the clutch, what is the average cost to have a shop do it?
In my neck of the woods it is $1200-$1400 to replace the entire clutch assembly. This is one of those jobs where the cost is mostly labor.
 
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