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Discussion Starter #1
2001 USDM outback wagon 2.5L 115k miles on original clutch (as far as I know)
Recently, I was on an "excursion" into some deep snow, ice, muddy stuff and got the clutch smoking a bit at one point.
Since then I've had a "squeal" type sound occasionally with letting the clutch out, and most recently (wed and friday last week) the clutch pedal stuck to the floor and the clutch seemed to be stuck engaged. Both times I was in the process of shifting "quickly" and the clutch was let out too fast (due to a failing pedal cover that I ripped off completely when I realized why my foot slipped off the pedal).

Once in this state, with the engine still running I couldn't select any gears, when I attempted 2nd or reverse the gears would grind. Working the clutch pedal yielded no change but it also felt as though the pedal wasn't connected to anything at all. After turning the engine off I could select gears and after pumping the clutch pedal a few times it would return to it's normal feel.

I have now noticed the clutch is definitely slipping at higher rpm's (3-4k) but the car seems to be driveable for now.

I'm hoping to upgrade from OEM spec.
Here's the patrs list I've compiled
Exedy stage 1 organic clutch kit are about $350
OEM flywheel I've found for $100
Lightened flywheel $200-400
new slave cylinder
stainless steel braided clutch line

What is everyone's opinion on the "tranquil" thing? http://www.pdmusa.com/Applications/applications.html

I haven't decided if I'm going to tackle this job myself or not. That may depend on when/if the clutch fails completely.
 

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Tranquil

Compensates for worn splines on the tranny shaft by sleeving over it, hence uses a oversize throw out bearing.

It is a good deal and we will definitely install one with our next clutch job.

Don't put off doing the clutch job. Sounds like you completely fried it already.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The clutch is only really slipping at WOT at those rpm's. At less than WOT is seems to hold just fine. I'm not really trying to "put it off" just get the parts I want beforehand. I've had trouble in the past when something broke and I didn't have the time to do the research or get the upgrades I really wanted. (When the stock turbo on my Saab blew and I had to have it running that weekend for a long trip comes to mind).
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I found "F1 racing" clutches online as well, the reviews I've read on some sites are favorable and the price is much better. Anyone have experience with these?

How light should a daily drivers flywheel be? I'm seen Fidanza's Al flywheel coming in at like 8-9 pounds which seems "too light" for a street car.
 

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Clutch Action

We moved him about a foot and decided not to smoke our new clutch! He was bottomed out on his center section! Now how would he have known ahead of time not to drive himself into the predicament.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ordered some parts:
Tranquil snout sleeve
ACT streetlite flywheel (like 12 pounds)
SPEC stage 1 organic (rated to hold 302lbft) - I wanted a full disc organic, I've had a 6 puck kevlar in another car and hated it.

I figure the hydraulic stuff can wait since it's outside the bellhousing. On my Saab the slave cylinder was inside which if you ask me is a dumbass way to do it.
 

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Hey,
Q1:How much did you pick up that tranquil sleeve for and how is the install?
Q2: What made you choose the SPEC clutch over the Exedy?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
the tranquil sleeve cost me something like $150 including shipping cost. I found it from www.hotsubarus.com iirc.

I chose the Spec clutch because I have friends who have had good experiences with their products. The exedy also didn't list any specs regarding how much torque it would hold, the spec is rated for 300 lb.ft.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Updating my thread, got the new clutch in about 900 miles ago.
First impression was how great the clutch pedal felt just sliding back and forth, I think the Tranquil sleeve really made a big difference. Initially I had a hard time driving the car because the pedal seemed to engage much sooner and quicker. When you see the pics of the old clutch you'll see why I was used to clutch engagement at the end of pedal travel.

I haven't thrashed on the clutch, and I'm at stock power levels so I doubt I'll have trouble with it slipping again.
It can be grabby at times, so it's not a clutch for your wife to daily driver (unless she doesn't mind). The engagement seems to occur over a smaller distance, the pedal effort may be slightly increased though I'm comparing it to the disaster you can see below.

On to the pics of the old clutch.

"That doesn't look all that bad, but what's with the edges being extra worn?"




I think this may have effected how the clutch engaged




The pressure plate showed a couple hot spots


Flywheel had hotspots and a weird "sorta crackled" look to it


Amazingly, this car was TOTALLY drivable, only WOT would really cause any slippage. I actually drove this car almost a month (probably almost 3000 miles) before getting the clutch put in. The only other clutch I've seen in this bad of shape was on our Rally car after it was slipping enough in deep sand to actually get the fibers hot enough to disintegrate and set the plastic clutch cover on fire.
In the end, that clutch had absolutely no friction material on either side.
 
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