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Discussion Starter #1
Our first big snow was Thursday morning and the 16yo learned that drifting an AWD car and curbs aren't a good pairing. Have a bent control arm and a CV that looks like it's unrelated, boot ripped in half and grease everywhere. I found a used control arm in a yard and will get an Autozone CV. I've watched a few Youtubes and read through the FSM I have, looks pretty straightforward. But wanted to make sure I'm not missing anything. Ignore the ripped/rusting steering rack, that's a whole nuther project for later maybe.

  • can the 32mm hub nut be reused?
  • it appears the CV is held in by a roller pin, not a stub end/c-clip in the diff - is that correct?
  • any other easy source for a new cotter pin for the bottom castle nut? Don't know if that's a dealer only item or something that Autozone would have a generic supply of?
474917
 

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85BRAT97SVX03Baja5mtHonda's
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2,129 Posts
oh yeah i see the taco'd control arm easy. nice , atl lest it di the job of bending there at the kink . gotta love the subaru design to save the frame and make it bolt on fix. love it that way. not sure th enew ones are so bolt on when they hit a issue. Love the old simple subies
 

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2003 OBW 2.5L 4EAT
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860 Posts
Autozone or any parts store will be able to supply cotter pins and a replacement axle nut (better off replacing, since it needs to be staked). Yes, the front axles are held in by roll pins to the stubs on the transmission side. If the steering racking is not leaking, consider replacing just the inner & outer tie rods and dust bellows.
 

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'98 Outback
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221 Posts
Removing the axle nut is sometimes pretty tough. It might come right off, or it might be the toughest part of the job. I had to cut one off once, after breaking two cold chisels on it. I agree it's better to replace the nut. The replacement might need a different socket, a 12-point vs hex. Pay attention at the store if you don't have a full complement of large impact sockets at home.

I heard a trick once to use a 4' long 3/4" breaker bar on the axle nut, brace it on the floor, and drive the car onto it to get enough torque. You might be tempted to use cheater pipe on a 1/2", but that could break the tool and injure you.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Done, not too bad. Only hiccup was that the control arm I got from a yard had a different bracket on the rear end, guessing it's the difference between regular Legacy and Outback. The one from the yard had a high side/low side, but the Outback one, the high side was stepped up more. Anyway, swapped the bracket over, new CV and cotter pin assortment from Autozone and it's all buttoned back up. The CV came with a new axle nut, so will return the one I bought there as well (should have looked in the box first).

Ready for back and forth to high school duty once more.
 
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