coolant temperature gauge
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Some folks plug in a data module and connect to a smartphone app so they can monitor all sorts of engine data.
1999 30th Anniversary Legacy Outback DOHC 2.5L 4EAT, 2008 Impreza WRX 2.5L 5MT, 2008 Impreza Wagon 2.5L 4EAT
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That would probably be the easiest way.
Not that familiar with FB engines but I know that the ECU will be monitoring the Engine Coolant Temperature. On the EJs there was a temp sensor on the crossover pipe that sent the info to the ECU and the Temperature gauge.
Too bad they got rid of that gauge but then most cars haven't had gauges for years.
you probably have the same blue/red indicator light that I have.
blue = cold
both off = normal
blinking red = hot
solid red = too hot
Adding an aftermarket temp gauge would probably require installing a probe somewhere, too. Plugging in a monitor will give you so much extra info. I keep meaning to do it, but it hasn't moved up to the level of "OK, it's time".
blue = cold
both off = normal
blinking red = hot
solid red = too hot
Adding an aftermarket temp gauge would probably require installing a probe somewhere, too. Plugging in a monitor will give you so much extra info. I keep meaning to do it, but it hasn't moved up to the level of "OK, it's time".
Wait, some past years didn't have any coolant gauge???
My 2018 Touring has a dedicated gauge and I'm glad it does.
My 2018 Touring has a dedicated gauge and I'm glad it does.
Does it actually display temperature?
First few years of the the 4th gen do not.
2010-2012 have the eco gauge on all models, 2013 and 2014 have a temp gauge on Limited and eco gauge on base and Premium.First few years of the the 4th gen do not.
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Chance de dash instrument gauge for a límited with temp gauge
Enviado desde mi iPhone utilizando Tapatalk
Enviado desde mi iPhone utilizando Tapatalk
Plugging in some sort of module is what I've been thinking about. Anybody have any recommendations on a specific module?
Other than color choices being fancier, it's like my 2007 Legacy: a typical graph. It doesn't display temperature in F or C, but in practice, that's not needed for day-to-day driving as long as the gauge shows the correct range for your car. Just having simple lights for general ranges would drive me batty, because it'd not give you useful information to judge how long until you're at some given temperature.
For the record: even though the head gaskets on my 2007 had to be replaced at around 118,000 miles, in my ownership, that car never had the gauge show more than right in the middle of the range.
Wait. What? The blue cold engine light I get in the morning will turn red if the engine overheats? Good to know!
That's the route I was thinking of taking until I had a problem that ended up generating a CEL code which was not a very pleasant experience:
http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums...veobd-app-obdlink-lx-bluetooth-scan-tool.html
Until I muster up the courage to try this approach again I guess I'll just continue to fly blind like the rest of my non-Limited friends who only have that idiot light to rely on.
Yup. Ideally blinking red. If it gets solid I'd be getting worried.
I guess a lot of people didn't read the manual! If you get the red-light of death, you're instructed to pull over and let the car idle (if it's not spewing coolant) and check that the fan is spinning.
If it is steaming, shut off the car and get to a safe distance.
Lol. That makes it sound like the car might blow up like an IED. :grin2:
But for sure, leave the radiator cap alone and maybe don't even bother opening the hood. You already know it's steaming.
If it gets to that point, maybe Subaru engineers are concerned with the fuel line catching fire.
radiator cap: You mean don't do like in the movies and open it? :wink2:
The "gauge" display and the light display are really not that far apart from each other.
The gauge will show cold-normal-hot based on the markings. Maybe it has a yellow range that might correspond to the blinking red of the light indicator. The light will show cold-normal-hot-too hot, but it won't show you where you are within the normal range. I don't know if the blinking red will show up at the same trigger point where the gauge shows hot, or if it is set to start blinking just before it gets there (like in a yellow range). I haven't been able to find the temperature points that will trigger the different lights and how closely they correspond to the gauge display. Without the temps being displayed, we generally assume there is a linear relationship between the gauge display and the temperature, but there might not be, all we can know is that "normal" range is OK.
I've never pushed the 2.5 hard enough, even towing last summer, to see the red light come on at all. But I would like to find out the temp where it is programmed to start flashing, where it is programmed to go solid, and then to have a display that shows me the current temp.
The gauge will show cold-normal-hot based on the markings. Maybe it has a yellow range that might correspond to the blinking red of the light indicator. The light will show cold-normal-hot-too hot, but it won't show you where you are within the normal range. I don't know if the blinking red will show up at the same trigger point where the gauge shows hot, or if it is set to start blinking just before it gets there (like in a yellow range). I haven't been able to find the temperature points that will trigger the different lights and how closely they correspond to the gauge display. Without the temps being displayed, we generally assume there is a linear relationship between the gauge display and the temperature, but there might not be, all we can know is that "normal" range is OK.
I've never pushed the 2.5 hard enough, even towing last summer, to see the red light come on at all. But I would like to find out the temp where it is programmed to start flashing, where it is programmed to go solid, and then to have a display that shows me the current temp.
This gives you an idea of what folks are concerned about. Their mpg, doesn't matter if the car blows up. There is an idiot light to tell you your motor is done.
My Gen3 XTs have a factory temp gauge, it's dumb and numb. It has no numbers, it runs at about 8:55 in the pm if it were a clock face. It doesn't move between 165* and 190* (like I said, numb)
You know kids, it's pretty simple to run down the the parts store and pick up a $20 coolant gauge. Tap a sensor into one of the small coolant line, or tap a jumper in off where the OEM sensor is. Run a line through the firewall and mount a live gauge. That how we did it in the old days. Car companies actually did it for you as part of the cluster to monitor the engine. I did the same on both of my rigs.
But I can see why is is way more important to have the ECO gauge. That process is hard to figure out, we need visual aides. The concept of pedal down=bad mileage vs pedal up=good mileage. That is a tough one, who cares about the coolant.....
My Gen3 XTs have a factory temp gauge, it's dumb and numb. It has no numbers, it runs at about 8:55 in the pm if it were a clock face. It doesn't move between 165* and 190* (like I said, numb)
You know kids, it's pretty simple to run down the the parts store and pick up a $20 coolant gauge. Tap a sensor into one of the small coolant line, or tap a jumper in off where the OEM sensor is. Run a line through the firewall and mount a live gauge. That how we did it in the old days. Car companies actually did it for you as part of the cluster to monitor the engine. I did the same on both of my rigs.
But I can see why is is way more important to have the ECO gauge. That process is hard to figure out, we need visual aides. The concept of pedal down=bad mileage vs pedal up=good mileage. That is a tough one, who cares about the coolant.....
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