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Car: 2008 Tribeca, 2010 LGT, Sold: 2005 XT Limited
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2,926 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
2005 XT

FSM says
1) Torque to 33 ft lbs.
2) Torque to 133 ftlbs and make sure it turns 65 degrees or more.

Mine only went about 45 degrees.

I SUPPOSE I should replace it with a new bolt, but it's back together now and I'd like to put it off until I do the next coolant change in 30k when i take the undercover off the next time.

What's the risk?

Tom
 

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01 VDC, 05 R Sedan, 06 BAJA EJ257
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15,477 Posts
You have to use a long breaker bar in order to get the torque to turn it the extra angle.

It should not back off.
 

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Car: 2008 Tribeca, 2010 LGT, Sold: 2005 XT Limited
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Discussion Starter #3
The bolt was torqued to the spec, there are just the following words in the FSM:

(1) Clean the crank shaft thread using compressed
air.
(2) Apply engine oil to the crank pulley bolt seat
and thread.
(3) Tighten the bolts temporarily with tightening
torque of 44 N��m (4.5 kgf-m, 33 ft-lb).
(4) Tighten the crank pulley bolts.
Tightening torque:
180 N��m (18.3 kgf-m, 132.7 ft-lb)
3) Confirm that the tightening angle of the crank
pulley bolt is 65�� or more. Perform the following
procedures when less than 65��.
CAUTION:
If the tightening angle of crank pulley bolt is
less than 45��, the bolt should be damaged. In
this case, the bolt must be replaced.

Is this just FSM BS, or is it something to worry about? I imagine that in the real world, there are plenty of people that don't pay attention to this.
 

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06 OBW 2.5, 05 Forester, had 03 H6 OBW
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5,947 Posts
It sounds like it is a stretch bolt, if it turns less than the proper amount that means it can't maintain enough clamping pressure (preload). It's like a spring that has been overstretched.

I'd replace it, if it were me and it took a week to get to it, I wouldn't worry.
 

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01 Outback LL Bean
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2,439 Posts
Or it means that the friction in the threads combined with the pressure of the bolt against the pulley is equal to the torque you read.

A dry bolt will torque at a different position than a oiled bolt. Did you oil the bolt?

If you are concerned, I would take the bolt out, re oil it and perform it again.

Also, how accurate is your torque wrench at 33 ft -lbs.

I would not worry about it personally.
 

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Car: 2008 Tribeca, 2010 LGT, Sold: 2005 XT Limited
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Discussion Starter #6
Or it means that the friction in the threads combined with the pressure of the bolt against the pulley is equal to the torque you read.

A dry bolt will torque at a different position than a oiled bolt. Did you oil the bolt?

If you are concerned, I would take the bolt out, re oil it and perform it again.

Also, how accurate is your torque wrench at 33 ft -lbs.

I would not worry about it personally.
It was oiled. Running torque was low as I installed it. I didn't try to repeat it. And I didn't blow it off with air, I wiped it on my pants before oiling :)

The 33 was right in the middle of the range of my small beam torque, so I used it to set that.

I will probably pick up a new bolt the next time I'm at the dealer and install it when I need a break from the wife and kids. For their safety of course :)
 

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I own 4 Subarus. A 95,97,02 and a 14. The first two are 2.2 and the last two 2.5.
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657 Posts
It's strange how the subaru instructions have evolved over the years. The 99 instructions are the same except that the final tightening torque is 94 ft-lb and the minimum turning angle is 45 degrees. If the angle is less then 45 degrees, then they specify repeating the installation with a new bolt. I guess that they had trouble with the bolt coming out.

Is the tightening angle measured from the 33 ft-lb stopping point to the final 133 ft-lb stopping point?
 

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Car: 2008 Tribeca, 2010 LGT, Sold: 2005 XT Limited
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Discussion Starter #9
Yes, they want 65 degrees of turn going from the pretorqued 33ftlbs to the final torque of 133 ftlbs.
 

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14 2.5i Premium CVT - SOLD 05 XT limited 5AT
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413 Posts
Sorry to dig up an old thread but I just wanted to add my experience if this question comes up again.

For my 2005 obxt, I examined my old bolt before I attempted to reuse it. It was clean and looked straight with no necking. So I decided to reuse it because I needed to drive the car the next day. If any part of the bolt looks thinned/stretched out then you definitely need a new bolt.

Anyway I cleaned the bolt, cleaned the bolt hole as best as I can with a rag, and then rubbed a bit of oil on the bolt thread and torqued it. Mine only rotated 45 degrees to torque to 135ft.lbs after a 35ft.lbs preload.

So I pulled it back out, and this time I dunked the entire bolt in engine oil and then wiped off the excess. Then I tried again. This time it rotated exactly 65 degrees to torque to 135ft.lbs after a 35ft.lbs preload. Success! So, cleaning and oiling the bolt is a necessary step for sure.

Now I am not sure about other engines, but on the TURBO engine, the easiest way to measure the angle is to look for a raised notch in an area right above the timing belt cover just below and to the right of the starter. It is a tiny raised bump about 1 cm long and only about 2 mm wide, but you can tell it is the correct line because it is perpendicular to the crack bolt (the line points to the bolt). The mark is about 10 o clock from the crack pulley. Start your torque wrench there, and then tighten clockwise until you reach the torque. The wrench should stop (click) right at the O degree mark indicated on top of the timing belt cover.

By the way I had to exceed the 300 ft.lbs max torque on my beefy wrench to loosen the crank bolt for the initial timing belt change.
 

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I own 4 Subarus. A 95,97,02 and a 14. The first two are 2.2 and the last two 2.5.
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657 Posts
I forgot about the oiling of the bolt. I have adopted the 2000+ torque specs for my 95 and 97. I think that the original 95 specified torque was only 65 ft lbs.

I also mark the bolt head with white paint to keep track if it starts to unscrew.
 
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