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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
For 2007 OB with 2.5i, SOHC, non turbo

Seems to be some confusion. Have read several threads on various Subie forums and can not find a consensus. Some say 94 ft lbs, some say 130 ft lbs. Some say oil threads, some say dry threads. Some confusion may be different torques for DHOC vs SHOC. Also, apparently Subaru added to the confusion by changing torque specs to address problems with loose crank pulleys.

In any event, would someone with a FSM please take a look and give me some info. I would buy the FSM myself if this were my car, but I or the owner will likely never use it again.

This Gates bulletin is very interesting. Has Subaru issued a similar bulletin?

https://www.gates.com/~/media/files/gates/automotive/resources/tech-tips-and-tsbs/subaru_loctite.pdf
 

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2006 Outback 2.5i Auto
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Any tips on how to stop the engine from turning when trying to tighten the crank bolt?
Most timing belt how-to's have options for that, as part of the "undoing the crank bolt".

Obviously the "put a breaker bar on it, and crank the starter" option doesn't work for tightening, so you are left with:
1) Use the factory tool (or copy there of) to hold the holes in the crank pulley.
2a) Automatic: jam a (big) screwdriver through the bell-housing peep hole into the flywheel.
2b) Manual: Put the transmission in 5th gear, hand brake on, car chocked, and tighten against the transmission.
3) Hold the crank pulley with a strap wrench or similar, possibly using the old accessory belt.

(list in approximate order of preference)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Depends what you mean. It may be too late, but if you're shopping for a timing kit, do NOT buy the Gates. They now use crappy Chinese tensioners. Get Aisin, which is 100% Japanese.
Right, I would not touch the Gates kit with a 10 foot pole. Unfortunately Aisin does not make a kit for my friend’s car although you could buy their 006 kit and get the correct belt and cog idler and still be $75-100 cheaper than OEM. I have installed a number of Aisin kits on Acura’s and Toyota’s...they are always top notch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Any tips on how to stop the engine from turning when trying to tighten the crank bolt?
I am getting the service tool from Company23 via Amazon. You could bump start it loose but I do not want to mess with homemade tools when I am trying to hit 130 ft lbs. I have made several crank holding tools over the years but I am a little guy pushing 69 and I want a stout well designed tool for this job. I could remove the radiator and may have enough room for my impact (not sure until I get the car) but I will be using a new crank bolt so can’t use match mark and impact to reinstall. The only reason I am using a new bolt is because dealer already had crank pulley off when he replaced head gaskets under warranty. I can not assume he did torque it beyond the yield point.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yep, I just bought your first choice as it is mine too. Should have it by Wed. Don’t like the kind that requires a breaker bar. Too many moving parts when trying to torque to 130.

For those interested, I will be selling a very slightly used Company23 crank pulley holder at a nice discount in a few weeks.
 

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85BRAT97SVX03Baja5mtHonda's
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go with the higher torque cause 94 is not enough. we ran into this in the ej22 series. some manuls ad incorrectly trnslasted jap to show 76 ft pount on the front crank pulleuy bolt.
it needs 135

I have bought over 4 cars that the shop used the incorrect shop manula setting on.....not good.

I bought them with crnnk pulleys off, or else worn woodruff keys...amongst the standardd off the shelf plug wires that won;t fit intot he heads (cheap car, missfirred til I put the plug wire on correctly) and drove it home for 200 bucks after i made it run right......
 
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