[traildogck]

For anyone running BC Coilovers, or anyone considering them. Here is my experience. I have had a set of BC BRs for almost 4 years now. There is maybe only 25K miles on them. I have fitted them to 2 separate cars. Both Gen4. (2005 & 2006) The BCs have always rattled on stutter bumps, some road seams ... things like that. BC replaced my top bearing mount once for me for free. I think just to shut me up. I have even gone so far as to YouTube some sh*t to try and convince them.

The new bearing perches they sent had the same crappy $8 KOYO bearing. Single row, not even sealed. Well, I replaced that with a $12 SKF single row, sealed. Pictured here next to the shiz-nit. A double row bearing with 4x times the working load.

I installed this double row in the BC. Please disregard the ugly urethane isolator I made previously. I was trying to solve this problem early on and the spring was moving in the the seat, so I fixed that also.

I have to say I am more than 100% pleased. The front end is now rock solid. All that teeth rattling is gone. It cost me $75 a bearing, but it's worth it. My test drive assured me that I can still love this car in the city. Even tho Denver barely has streets.

It's been a year and I needed some serious cheater pipes and I had to build a rig to bust it all loose.

 

[traildogck]

MRC, my Bad

Here is the bearing spec. For anyone who is interested. This will cross reference to any mfg.

 

[Tishers]

What purpose does the bearing serve? I am finding it difficult to visualize where it is installed.

I was going to ask about a durometer shim/spacer but you pointed out that you tried that already. Would that be better if it was a stepped cone shape to help center the spring when the wheel is unloaded. I can see where the loading could even go negative where it is in spring with the wheel assembly hanging in free-space.

 

[traildogck]

OK. The OEM set up uses a bearing IN the top hat. The tophat is both steel and rubber, and a bearing. The strut shaft spins in the bearing for turns. The bearing and rubber supports the car.

The BC coilover is different. The tophat (camber plate) does not spin , it is fixed. The OEM spins at the top hat the damper rod moves up and down. The BC has a pillow ball support at the top camber plat, for articulation, but not a bearing. The Coilover damper HOUSING (instead) spins relative to the damper shaft which is fixed. The top seat for the spring carries the bearing AND THE WHOLE assembly rotates basically the complete opposite of the OEM strut set up. It's weird, I even called before I installed. So.... the sprung load from the spring .... loads the bearing.

When lateral loads are hit, the slop in the single row bearing rattles. The double row is much tighter.

The urethane mess was an earlier attempt at stopping movement of the spring at the top. Before I realized it was the bearing itself.

 

[Zangado1]

What purpose does the bearing serve? I am finding it difficult to visualize where it is installed.

I was going to ask about a durometer shim/spacer but you pointed out that you tried that already. Would that be better if it was a stepped cone shape to help center the spring when the wheel is unloaded. I can see where the loading could even go negative where it is in spring with the wheel assembly hanging in free-space.

Has this bearing issue been addressed with the BC's when they now have a specific coilover application just for our Outbacks? I have a set of Fortune 500's on my Legacy GT and they have a specific radial bearing that stops the binding that coilovers are know for. Getting a set of these BC's is a no brainer for my Outback since they are a specific replacement vs putting on LGT suspension on and dealing with other modifications to make everything work properly.

 

[traildogck]

Has this bearing issue been addressed with the BC's when they now have a specific coilover application just for our Outbacks? I have a set of Fortune 500's on my Legacy GT and they have a specific radial bearing that stops the binding that coilovers are know for. Getting a set of these BC's is a no brainer for my Outback since they are a specific replacement vs putting on LGT suspension on and dealing with other modifications to make everything work properly.

No, BCs still utilize the single row, shielded (not sealed) radial bearing. BTW, radial, means radius. That just means the bearing spins. The load rating for these cheap single row bearings are are 1200-1700 lbs depending on MFG. The double row is more 4500.

I am not saying the BC bearing are a problem for everyone, but it was for me. My steering is super tight, and the BC Koyo bearing was the weak link.

 

[Zangado1]

Has this bearing issue been addressed with the BC's when they now have a specific coilover application just for our Outbacks? I have a set of Fortune 500's on my Legacy GT and they have a specific radial bearing that stops the binding that coilovers are know for. Getting a set of these BC's is a no brainer for my Outback since they are a specific replacement vs putting on LGT suspension on and dealing with other modifications to make everything work properly.

I noticed you posted your replacement bearing's for your BC's stating they are easy to cross reference. Wondering where you found them since they are not an everyday modification. Thanks...

 

[traildogck]

I noticed you posted your replacement bearing for your BC's. Wondering where you found them since they are not an everyday modification. Thanks...

A local industrial bearing supplier. Living in Denver, I can buy anything I want off the shelf. Usually same day. You can save 20% just cross referring the Koyo prt # in a.

 

[Zangado1]

Ok I will see what I can find once I purchase my BC's in a couple weeks. Thanks...

 

[traildogck]

Ok I will see what I can find once I purchase my BC's in a couple weeks. Thanks...

Run them and see what you think, I'm not going anywhere.