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Most of the posts I have read dont totaly address the binding effects of road salt. So, after spending the last 4 days with my car on jack stands here is what I have learned.

1. Order the manual prior to starting Some people say it is on Ebay for $7. I just paid the $35 for a 72hr subsciption.

2. There is no rush and you already have grease everwhere. So, soak the s*&^ out of everything you will be working with in PB blaster a week ahead every day followed with hammer taps

3. Buy the boot kit. Not the whole Axle. Get the T70 to drain the oil 1st

4. Rent an Impact hammer with a rounded pickel fork. The free ones you hammer at Autozone will tear the ball joint boot. If no impact hammer or rounded fork try a ball joint press or some other press that will fit on the lower arm and push the ball joint stud up. It will take a scary amount of force. This needs to be done. The axle will not come out all the way only enough to tear up your inner oil seal. (you will have to wait at least 24hrs to get one to replace your freshly ruined one.)

5. You only need the the tire off and the lower ball joint. If things go well. There should be enough room to remove the whole axle.

6. Ah, the caveat. Things will not go well. your axle is now a part of your hub. To remove you will have to distroy the $150 wheel bearing

7. So, now what? Try the axel puller. Still,it is now part of the hub. Dont beat it burn it or grease the crap out of it. Accept it.

8. Take off the caliper and suspend it out of the way. Same with the speed sensor cable and break line. remove the upper ball joint then the strut arm bolts (mark the position of the upper bolt).

9. Catch:gasp:. the axel will now come out clean without having to replace the oil seal. spin it around and hang it on the strut with some thing thin for wiggle. then set the axle end on a jack or something.

10. Clean it up a little. then start marking where everything is. nice gouge on the axle housing and the shaft so you can realign (same as it ever was.) Then cut the band not the boot. you will need the upper boot at the housing because replacement boots dont have the the three grove fillers. take off the housing (ring inside 1st) mark all that to. Same as it ever was.

11. break clean it all. put it back together (buy extra axle grease 4OZ total. then every thing in reverse.

12 the CV may not just slip back in so there will be play in it. jack up the other wheel and have it in neutral. you will know when it is a grove when the other wheel moves when u move yours. then push the boot down and give it a love tap with a rubber malet on the outside of the cup till it pops it. Dont beat on the wheel or axle because it wont be pushing the axel in, there is still to much play check the green cup it still wiggles :D. Total cost about $50 if you have to buy or rent tools. Unk how long it will take.
 
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bmat
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