CV Axle recommendation
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'03 outback limited, '01 Outback Limited, '01 Legacy L wagon, '96 Legacy Brighton wagon
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Since you have to remove them one way or the other, just dismantle, clean, regrease, and reassemble with replacement boots.
If the boots haven't been torn for long, there's grease in them, and there's no noise, then reboot.
Often people who replace them with aftermarket parts regret it, and end up buying quality-rebuilt originals anyway.
Just skip the middleman and take care of what you've got there now.
Often people who replace them with aftermarket parts regret it, and end up buying quality-rebuilt originals anyway.
Just skip the middleman and take care of what you've got there now.
'03 outback limited, '01 Outback Limited, '01 Legacy L wagon, '96 Legacy Brighton wagon
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3,078 Posts
When you do, check out the videos about doing the rebuilding.
I watched one video, doesn’t look super fun, but definitely doable.
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What I did was I bought one new Subaru axle and then every other one that I've used I took to a Driveline Specialist I live in northwest Indiana there is a place here called Indiana drive line, The last one he rebuild for me he only charged me like $49.
After he rebuilds it I stick it in a box and put it somewhere then next time when I got to use it I just pop it in.
Then repeat the procedure.
The last one I caught it early right when the boot ripped didn't let it go too long he did a reboot and put grease in there, I've had no problems with the ones he has done for me so far any axle from AutoZone or places like that are just not worth it you going to have problems with them.
After he rebuilds it I stick it in a box and put it somewhere then next time when I got to use it I just pop it in.
Then repeat the procedure.
The last one I caught it early right when the boot ripped didn't let it go too long he did a reboot and put grease in there, I've had no problems with the ones he has done for me so far any axle from AutoZone or places like that are just not worth it you going to have problems with them.
What’s the rule here on rebooting
I’m at 180,000 miles. If I get under there and there is still a bunch of grease in the boot, it sounds like rebooting is the way to go.
I do however get some vibrations at speed despite new tires, wheel balance, tie rods, control arm bushings and I’m wondering if it could be an axle.
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I’m at 180,000 miles. If I get under there and there is still a bunch of grease in the boot, it sounds like rebooting is the way to go.
I do however get some vibrations at speed despite new tires, wheel balance, tie rods, control arm bushings and I’m wondering if it could be an axle.
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'03 outback limited, '01 Outback Limited, '01 Legacy L wagon, '96 Legacy Brighton wagon
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3,078 Posts
At that mileage, I would remove the whole axle and rebuild it - not at all hard to do, and by doing that you can see if it is starting to show any problems or not.
Do you mean reboot? Or actual rebuild with new bearings etc?
'03 outback limited, '01 Outback Limited, '01 Legacy L wagon, '96 Legacy Brighton wagon
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3,078 Posts
Basically just clean and regrease everything. However, if the tracks and/or the balls show pitting, it is time to replace the whole assembly - they will run a few thousand miles, but......
Great, I’ll order some boots, clamps, and get to it if this Oregon rain ever stops on a weekend.
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'03 outback limited, '01 Outback Limited, '01 Legacy L wagon, '96 Legacy Brighton wagon
Joined
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3,078 Posts
One thing to check while you have them apart is looking for any cracks in the cage that surrounds the balls - if they are cracked, you are done.
The one thing that could drive you crazy is if you orient the 2 halves of a CV assembly wrong - the balls will go in, but the assembly will be locked up and have no plunge capability. Getting them back apart them can be real fun! Find whatever videos you can on how to reassembly them correctly the first time!
What you could do to avoid that problem is to mark the face of each half before you disassemble them.
The one thing that could drive you crazy is if you orient the 2 halves of a CV assembly wrong - the balls will go in, but the assembly will be locked up and have no plunge capability. Getting them back apart them can be real fun! Find whatever videos you can on how to reassembly them correctly the first time!
What you could do to avoid that problem is to mark the face of each half before you disassemble them.
'03 outback limited, '01 Outback Limited, '01 Legacy L wagon, '96 Legacy Brighton wagon
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3,078 Posts
Not really as far as I know ( 40 years of prepping and rebuilding CVs for racing, and so far have never noticed or heard of a problem), but it certainly wouldn't hurt.
One more thing before I do this on Saturday.
There seems to be some debate as to solvent vs. no solvent.
Is it pretty hard to get all the grease out of the outer joint as it doesn't disassembly as much as the inner? Is a wipe down sufficient?
'03 outback limited, '01 Outback Limited, '01 Legacy L wagon, '96 Legacy Brighton wagon
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3,078 Posts
You can use almost anything to get rid of all of the grease - a can of spray brake cleaner will do the job nicely. Acetone, MEK, naptha, and paint solvent also works.
It is best to always use a solvent to make sure that all of the microscopic stuff is gone - a simple wiping will always leave some behind.
It is best to always use a solvent to make sure that all of the microscopic stuff is gone - a simple wiping will always leave some behind.
If the tear is fairly recent, the boot/CV is in good shape otherwise, and re-booting/re-axleing isn’t an option now, I’ve found a generous dab of “Shoe Goo” adhesive will seal the tear and keep it sealed. Clean the area of grease & grime and apply. May buy you a few more thousand miles before needing to re-boot or re-axle. I did this on my TDI (boot tore at one of its “peaks”) and it lasted at least 10K miles.
Napa HD, and brand new all the way.
(not re-manned = used / abused) HD gives a OEM kind of boot.
got 4 on my 2002 H6 right now. and 2 fronts on my retired 2002 H4.
these new only cost a little more than reman turds.
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