You were the key catalyst, and critical test mule for R&D.
I am not sure how to answer that. If you are looking for the CVT INSERTS they can be had here on fleeBayWhat is the best CVT spacer kit to use with a 2” Ready Lift kit and where is the best place to buy one?
Or they can be had off of ADF's website.
I'm so glad you finally decided to go with an LS Swap.You were the key catalyst, and critical test mule for R&D.
Without @Brucey there would be no CVT inserts.
I am super thankful for my ADF also. The exposure through there has keep my busy. I just got home from my regular work. I am pouring a round of inserts. Then on to some CKE RSBRB is HD steel for someone of the LGT forum.
Then maybe get back to Cherry's motor replacement later this evening.
I'm so glad you finally decided to go with an LS Swap.
I thought that's why you were doing hub motors for the front?:xnuts: :headslap: :twak:
It might not be easier, but probably more reliable.
But there is only a RWD option, with the LS option. Even though my girls might stay on the pavement all the time, I still need AWD.
Thanks for this pic. I got under the car and was wondering for sure how this gets installed. After looking at it now I realize there is only one way that I would work anyways.
Installed dropper. Will be going to work soon so I will test it out
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I installed the insert and had similar issue with 04Limited (I had insert with S for 60D). The vibration and noise at the stated RPMs overtime do get to be too much. I think partly because 18-19 MYs are quieter. Without the insert, I notice driveline slash/wobble at lower speed and vibrations @>75-80mph. I'm lowered by 1inch and tried to install the ADF insert but I could not put the heat shield back on. Also, the drive shaft with the ADF spacer is really close to the subframe/body. I don't want to damage the shaft since it's $$$$. Anyone else tried it with stock or lowered suspension?I installed my insert back in March 2019. Not sure what the stiffness is, eBay didn't have the option to choose.
Anyways I had an issue with this speed bump where I work that would make the CVT jerk/rattle/shutter after driving over. Dealer says everything was working as normal. Installed the insert, the speed bump jerk/rattle/shutter went away...but then I had to deal with CVT vibration at 1100 rpm, 2900rpm, and redline. Everything the CVT did was transferred into the steering wheel and seat. Took the insert out today and car drives way smoother.
Again, not sure what stiffness I got but Im thinking it's either 60 or 65 since the higher numbers were discontinued as stated earlier in this thread.
I might shave the insert down when I get a chance and maybe drill a few holes into it and try it again. From a performance standpoint I don't think there's much other than making the CVT shift points more apparent.
Sorry for the confusion. I mean the adf carrier spacer. Not the insert. I got the insert kit directly from you a while ago. Yes, I like the response with the insert but the NVH trade off is not good enough to keep it on . Your suggestions were clear so nothing went amiss there. Just me trying to fiddle with stuff.I think everyone's experience can be different based on sensitivity.
Let's talk about this. What ADF insert? Is this a CKE cvt insert sold through ADF? Or, do you mean the ADF driveshaft carrier bearing spacer? To be clear ... (and if I seem like I gave misleading advice to anyone) The ADF driveshaft carrier bearing spacer only work for a lifted car. It will only be a determent to a lowered or stock height car. The ADF carrier drop is for rear subframe lifted rigs ONLY.
To be clear. I produce 60, 75, & 85. But trust me, the harder the insert, the more transfer.
There is always a CV axle component to consider. Regardless of stock height, lift, or lowered.
That's good to know. Glad I could test this out for potential lowered crowds. I think the majority of the slop or slash is d/t the cvt programming. When I first do the battery reset, the cvt feels crisps and always wants to pull. After few days of 'learning', the cvt is a slop fest at times. Worst in low speed or traffic. I think for my case, the solution is XRT tune which hopefully get rid of the factory indicisive programming.@supercow2610
The more I think about your situation, the more questions I have, we may have covered some of them in the past. I deal with a huge amount of email correspondence. Ebay sales are pretty easy. Direct inquiries usually average 8-10 emails before there is a decision is made. So my memory is challenged.
The CVT mount insert, the primary success has been for users who are experiencing a low speed "wobble" or "lash" or "slop". Without any of those pre-existing issues, there isn't any benefit utilizing the insert.
I am also very sensitive to NVH, chassis and suspension changes. Historically, I say no benefit in developing a CVT insert when the CVT was introduced. I saw a constant, optimal held RPM as a vibration generator. And since the early CVTs did not have fake shift points, I didn't see a need.
However, it was the lifted community that forced my hand to develop a CVT mount insert which has been very helpful for the lifted community. Models beyond the OB, Fozzy and Crosstreks also. But, a LOWERED application could be introducing a new variable. With lowering, Driveshaft/pinion angles do not change. So the only vibration could come from front CV axles.
With all that said, with a lowered, 3.6R cvt equipped OB, there may only be a negative effect from the insert. I can say the insert was never tested in your specific application. In hindsight, I suppose it has been tested, by you.
Forgive my lack of knowledge, but is this driveline movement/lash an inherently poor design? Have never felt it driving any other vehicle (that I know of...).1st off, it helps prevent mount breakage...It's happened with members here, and I have seen it with the 5EAT.
From performance standpoint? It takes away driveline lash. (movement) For many, unwanted movement. When you stomp on the throttle, the whole drivetrain shifts. The motor and transmission try to lift. The pitch stop and motor mounts are supposed to control the motor. The transmission mount, the transmission, and the rear differential and cradle take care of the rear connection.
The CVT gets max torque right away. (or tries to) There is an elastic moment of force which stresses the mount every time you take off from a stop. Further, while the CVT "fake shifts", mount stretches around. Also, when the torque converter locks and unlocks on the highway, there is also lash and wasted energy. In my turbos, this is the most annoying movement for me. The inserts in my car, quell that "shudder under my butt". I could never go back.
The insert helps to lock down this insert at the transmission. A weak or degraded mount will put further stress, primarily on the motor mounts. Changing motor mounts s*cks.
It's basically $30 insurance and a less sloppy center driveline. Performance upgrades for the like of WRX and STI are actually SOLID mounts. I have kept the durometer of these inserts to 75d ti ensure they don't add any NVH like a solid, hard mount would.
Hopefully this explanation helps.
Glad to hear a current opinion. I just completed my setup and started noticing the shudder when accelerating off a turn or stop. Just placed the order and will get it installed ASAP!Going to bring a little lift to this thread. Just got my CVT insert installed and it absolutely corrected my 20mph shudder. Also have the center bearing drop spacers installed.