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2012 outback...103k...CVT just failed! I’m having the dealer check to see if Subaru will cover the repairs under warranty but I am feeling like that’s a long shot. Facing a 1800 repair...this should be a recall!!! My first and last Subaru I’ll ever buy. I bought this car based on the brand reliability....boy did I get burned.:frown2:
Why do you EXPECT Subaru to cover repairs on your out of warranty vehicle?

When do the repairs become your responsibility?

$1800 seems pretty reasonable for a CVT repair.
 

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Subaru Steps Up!

Fantastic news today! Subaru stepped up and is only charging me $250 for the repair! I’m so impressed with their response time and my dealers (Van Bortel Subaru Victor NY) response...their response and leeway on being just over the mileage number really puts my mind at ease! Sorry for my previous nasty comments...I was pretty upset that day, as some might understand (and others won’t, oh well) :smile2:
 

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Brucey
'17 3.6 Limited
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Fantastic news today! Subaru stepped up and is only charging me $250 for the repair! I’m so impressed with their response time and my dealers (Van Bortel Subaru Victor NY) response...their response and leeway on being just over the mileage number really puts my mind at ease! Sorry for my previous nasty comments...I was pretty upset that day, as some might understand (and others won’t, oh well) :smile2:
Great to hear!

This might be a bit late but can you send me the old valve body? I'd like to try some homebrew repairs.
 

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Super Moderator
2016 3.6 Limited with ES
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2,332 Posts
Great to hear!

This might be a bit late but can you send me the old valve body? I'd like to try some homebrew repairs.

If I ever lose a little toe in an accident I'll be sure to send it to you for some attempted homebrew fixin.
 

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Brucey
'17 3.6 Limited
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10,162 Posts
If I ever lose a little toe in an accident I'll be sure to send it to you for some attempted homebrew fixin.
If you ever lose a tooth in an accident milk doesn't have the ideal pH balance to preserve it. In spite if what the Googler says.

Instead keep it in your cheek for your best chance of reattachment. Saline is probably best but most people don't carry that on them. You only have a very limited time, so act fast and call your dentist immediately.

Many have been reattached successfully.

:smile2:
 

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2015 Outback 3.6r
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33 Posts
Finally decided to call dealer to inspect transmission. No idea if it’s actually transmission related. I recently had spark plugs done.

I’ve always thought the transmission was kinda wonky. It’s got the 17 mph shudder. RPMs seem to bounce when decelerating. The hard shift into reverse. Some other weird timing issues with the going from stopped to start. But the thing I noticed most concerning was about 6 months ago 68k it was really jerky going uphill when I maintained a constant speed. It’s like it’s putting along or being jerked. I kinda think fuel related. I don’t know. However today it was like I was on a wooden roller coaster being pulled uphill by...a chain. I can replicate it but not always. Seems more pronounced when cars been sitting the goes uphill. RPM usually 2-3k. It’s very noticeable. Anyway thought I’d share here. If anyone has similar experience or advice just in case dealer says....ah..everything’s good here. Everything is not good. 77k.
 

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Outback 2011 3.6R Premium
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Finally decided to call dealer to inspect transmission. No idea if it’s actually transmission related. I recently had spark plugs done.

I’ve always thought the transmission was kinda wonky. It’s got the 17 mph shudder. RPMs seem to bounce when decelerating. The hard shift into reverse. Some other weird timing issues with the going from stopped to start. But the thing I noticed most concerning was about 6 months ago 68k it was really jerky going uphill when I maintained a constant speed. It’s like it’s putting along or being jerked. I kinda think fuel related. I don’t know. However today it was like I was on a wooden roller coaster being pulled uphill by...a chain. I can replicate it but not always. Seems more pronounced when cars been sitting the goes uphill. RPM usually 2-3k. It’s very noticeable. Anyway thought I’d share here. If anyone has similar experience or advice just in case dealer says....ah..everything’s good here. Everything is not good. 77k.
Sounds like you have two problems, one with the CVT and the other with your torque converter (the jerky feeling going uphill).

Hopefully the dealer will diagnose it correctly so you can get it fixed.

Seagrass
 

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2010 Outback 2.5 Premium
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Not going to read all 22 pages, but going to post my experience.

Bought 2010 OB 2.5 July of '13 with 34k miles. Week before memorial day '16, with 260k miles, trans started to code but no perceivable difference in performance. Got to a dealer and diagnosis was remove and replace. $7500. Was in a hurry o $1k expedited shipping on top. Was back on the road right after three holiday weekend.

July of 17 I got my letter with claim form, made some phone calls, got copies of my invoice, and a link to submit my refund claim via web. Had a check for the $7500 in less than 3 weeks from receiving the letter. Also my extended warranty was listed as 1 year with no mileage stipulation like on other years.

SUPER STOKED!!!!!!

I was told it was due to around 100 cases of people getting the decel shudder and actually stalling out. I had noticed the shudder, not consistent, and no rhyme or reason, but never had a stall.

Late winter of '18 I noticed a noise with wheel speed. It wasn't a wheel bearing, I replaced the dunes with no change in sound. Took it to the dealership and they determined it was the trans(maybe even the diff) and it would need to be replaced.
With 420k miles at this point, dealer contact at Corp didn't want to approve the warranty replacement due to mileage so I called Corp myself and initiated a claim. Finally a couple weeks later I got a call saying they were legally obligated to stand by the warranty they offered. I believe it was June and around 435k when trans was actually replaced under the extended warranty program.

Shortly after that I blew a head gasket and parked it for a few months. It was burning oil a little premature, so I figured an extra $2k on top of gasket job got me a brand new short block, I did that at 449k miles. Hope to get another 200k+ out of it!
 

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2.5 2014 Outback
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70 Posts
Well just read through 3/4 of posts on this subject. Have '14 OB 2.5 and although being slow its been a good vehicle. I was curious about the reason why the letter on the CVT. I have not had the stalling coming to stop issue but have had a sort of jiggling or shuddering up a hill on moderate throttle at slower speeds. I saw someone referenced this at 17mph I'll have to pay closer attention. Anyway thanks all for the information on the Torque Converter lock-up information. These problems (including the shuddering) don't seem to be related to the CVT itself, but curious about SOA replacing the CVT too. Maybe they are just wanting to make sure customers are happy and if you're replacing the Torque converter you may as well do the CVT as well? I have fairly solid experience working on various cars and to me the CVT doesn't seem like it would be the source of a shudder, more like a lockup TC.

I noticed on this last page's posts some mention of a noise from drivetrain related to speed. I have noticed when driving with the windows down a noise from RF of car that sounds like maybe the wheels are not in alignment and that one is rubbing ( but I just had a alignment due to a tie-rod end and its driving perfectly). I guess that could be something with the differential for the front drive system.

Anyway, between my Sonic having a MT bearing noise from a defectively designed transmission end plate that's cropping up, my Kia Optima being inspected twice by nervous dealer folks as a recall for possible complete engine failure from crankshaft oil passage blockage and this I'm not sure any of these new cars are all that reliable.

At least we can shuffle between them if one does go down.
 

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2012 OB 2.5i. Approximately 75,000 miles. Purchased used 11/29/19
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This CVT thing has gotten me a little worried.

I bought a 2012 used just after thanksgiving with 73,000 miles on it. Currently about 74,500 miles. I understand and I printed off the letter (posted above) and put it in my glove box for the extended warranty. So I am good until 2022(10 years) or 100,000 miles. So I have 25,000 miles left on the factory CVT extended warranty.

Since the car and Subaru is all new to me, as well as a CVT having never owned a car with one. I do not know that is "normal" and what sounds are suspicious.

One thing I have noticed is that when cold, and turning sharply (near or at full steering wheel deflection) at slow speeds ands starting to accelerate. I feel what I think is the AWD system and front wheels "bite" for traction. At least that is what it feels like to me having driven full size 4x4 trucks in 4 wheel low range and turning very sharply. It is like the bite of traction is too much at that extreme range of steering. But I have never felt this in other front whell drive cars. Is this normal, or is what I am feeling with the OB a CVT "shudder".

The only other "shudder" I have felt is when the car is ideling, and I turn on an electrical component. such as the fog lights, or even roll down the electric window. At which po int it is like the RPM fall and there is a slight vibration for a second or so. I'm not sure if this is described as a shudder. to me it is like the idle RPM is set too low, and any additional load on the alternator slows it even more and the engine will stumble a bit until it can catch itself or the initial start up load of the alternator reduces and then the vibration is gone.

I have tried pretty aggressive braking from say 55 mph to a stop, and I do NOT seem to get any sense that the car is about to stall out. (which seems to be a symptom of a faulty torque converter or valve body). I do know my car seems once warm to idle at about 750 PRM, which seems a bit low to me. Is 750 RPM the factory idle setting?

When I bought the used car from an independent used car dealer, I also purchased an "after market" (meaning NOT Subaru) extended warranty program. I usually don't buy extended plans, but with the computers and complex drive train, AWD and CVT I thought it might make good sense this time with this particular car. Which gives me I believe 6 additional years and/or 75,000 miles. So I "should" be covered for nearly 150,000 miles. if the aftermarket warranty in fact covers what it claims.

I was going to do my own drain and fill this summer of the CVT fluid and probably both the front and rear differentials.

But now I am second guessing that plan. Thinking instead that I may be better off bringing it into the Subaru dealer to have this done and paying the additional dollars over doing it myself. Bringin it into the Subaru dealer will allow the Subaru dealer "inspect the CVT", and also record the fluid changes within the Subaru dealer records by VIN. Does this make sense? or should I save the money and do the fluid changes myself and simply record in the owners manual or other log book and keep with the records of the car and I would be "safe"? I was going to probably use an name brand CVT fluid, but even if I do it myself, I would now think it best to use OEM CVT fluid to keep again with ensuring the CVT warranty is not somehow violated.

Also there is currently no trailer hitch on the vehicle, but I plan on adding one to haul a smaller utility trailer for yard refuse and what not and also bike racks and the like. So I may take pictures of the vehicle so that I can document that there was no hitch on it for at least the first nearly 75,000 miles. Also I was planning on installing a 2x2 inch hitch reciever. Yes, I know this has a much higher capacity rating than the OB can tow. However I already have all the hitch accessories from other larger truck with 2x2 hitch and do not want to have to buy new accessories etc. Is this a bad idea because if "they" see that larger capacity hitch, that if the CVT craps out, that they will blame me for towing over capacity and not pay for any warranty work in the future?

So the three questions:

1) Should I do the CVT fluid change myself, or let the dealer do it to ensure compliance with warranty
2) Should I replace the differentials fluid changes myself since I believe that is beyond the factory warranty and the "extended" warranty offered by Subaru ONLY covers the CVT is that correct?
3) Should I ONLY buy the smaller class hitch, and avoid the 2x2 inch hitch reciever potentially disqualifying me from warranty coverage, or is that a non issue?
 

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one thing I have noticed is that when cold, and turning sharply (near or at full steering wheel deflection) at slow speeds ands starting to accelerate. I feel what I think is the AWD system and front wheels "bite" for traction. At least that is what it feels like to me having driven full size 4x4 trucks in 4 wheel low range and turning very sharply. It is like the bite of traction is too much at that extreme range of steering. But I have never felt this in other front whell drive cars. Is this normal, or is what I am feeling with the OB a CVT "shudder".
did the other FWD cars have traction control and a system similar to the VDC on the subaru? It won't feel the same. This sounds normal to me.

The only other "shudder" I have felt is when the car is ideling, and I turn on an electrical component. such as the fog lights, or even roll down the electric window. At which po int it is like the RPM fall and there is a slight vibration for a second or so. I'm not sure if this is described as a shudder. to me it is like the idle RPM is set too low, and any additional load on the alternator slows it even more and the engine will stumble a bit until it can catch itself or the initial start up load of the alternator reduces and then the vibration is gone.
That's not the transmission. You can do that while sitting still.

I have tried pretty aggressive braking from say 55 mph to a stop, and I do NOT seem to get any sense that the car is about to stall out. (which seems to be a symptom of a faulty torque converter or valve body). I do know my car seems once warm to idle at about 750 PRM, which seems a bit low to me. Is 750 RPM the factory idle setting?
sounds normal - something around there.

But now I am second guessing that plan. Thinking instead that I may be better off bringing it into the Subaru dealer to have this done and paying the additional dollars over doing it myself. Bringin it into the Subaru dealer will allow the Subaru dealer "inspect the CVT", and also record the fluid changes within the Subaru dealer records by VIN. Does this make sense? or should I save the money and do the fluid changes myself and simply record in the owners manual or other log book and keep with the records of the car and I would be "safe"? I was going to probably use an name brand CVT fluid, but even if I do it myself, I would now think it best to use OEM CVT fluid to keep again with ensuring the CVT warranty is not somehow violated.
Unless you are repeatedly towing, subaru will tell you the fill is lifetime and won't need to be changed. When subaru does their inspection of a CVT, it is only an external inspection for leaks. Nothing fancy. But a trip to the dealer gets that service documented by you and subaru, so some sort of a service might be beneficial.


Also there is currently no trailer hitch on the vehicle, but I plan on adding one to haul a smaller utility trailer for yard refuse and what not and also bike racks and the like. So I may take pictures of the vehicle so that I can document that there was no hitch on it for at least the first nearly 75,000 miles. Also I was planning on installing a 2x2 inch hitch reciever. Yes, I know this has a much higher capacity rating than the OB can tow. However I already have all the hitch accessories from other larger truck with 2x2 hitch and do not want to have to buy new accessories etc. Is this a bad idea because if "they" see that larger capacity hitch, that if the CVT craps out, that they will blame me for towing over capacity and not pay for any warranty work in the future?
shouldn't impact anything for a warranty on the CVT... however there are general disclaimers in the owner's manual and in the warranty booklet about warranty damage claims not being covered due to towing:

"SUBARU warranties do not apply to vehicle damage or malfunction caused by trailer towing."


So the three questions:

1) Should I do the CVT fluid change myself, or let the dealer do it to ensure compliance with warranty
2) Should I replace the differentials fluid changes myself since I believe that is beyond the factory warranty and the "extended" warranty offered by Subaru ONLY covers the CVT is that correct?
3) Should I ONLY buy the smaller class hitch, and avoid the 2x2 inch hitch reciever potentially disqualifying me from warranty coverage, or is that a non issue?
No need to replace the fluid to ensure any sort of warranty compliance. That's not required. The CVT warranty is only for the CVT. Change the differential fluids won't affect that warranty either way. Buy whatever hitch works for your needs.
 

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This CVT thing has gotten me a little worried.



So the three questions:

1) Should I do the CVT fluid change myself, or let the dealer do it to ensure compliance with warranty
2) Should I replace the differentials fluid changes myself since I believe that is beyond the factory warranty and the "extended" warranty offered by Subaru ONLY covers the CVT is that correct?
3) Should I ONLY buy the smaller class hitch, and avoid the 2x2 inch hitch reciever potentially disqualifying me from warranty coverage, or is that a non issue?
I just went through the torque converter issue with a 2011 Outback. It was stalling and shuddering when coming to a stop intermittently. I took it to a dealer and they confirmed it was the torque converter and not the CVT. However, a faulty torque converter can cause damage to the CVT. The only way to know is to have the fluid drained from the transmission and inspect it for metal flakes. If there are metal flakes inside then the CVT will need to be replaced. A torque converter is around $2k depending on dealer and location. A CVT replacement is about $8k.

I would take it to your local dealer and have them inspect it if you are concerned. They will know what to look for. It's an expensive repair and in IMO, not worth messing with if you do not have the knowledge or experience.
 

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'17 OB 3.6 , '12 OB 3.6 (Deceased MVA), '11 OB 2.5 , '11 Legacy 2.5
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Great to hear!

This might be a bit late but can you send me the old valve body? I'd like to try some homebrew repairs.
I saved my entire original ValveBody from my 2011 OB 2.5. Had 170k on it. Has been sitting in my barn for @ 6mos. Are you still in the market for one? I'll put you in it real cheap. You can pm me if yer interested. Thx
 

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I just went through the torque converter issue with a 2011 Outback. It was stalling and shuddering when coming to a stop intermittently. I took it to a dealer and they confirmed it was the torque converter and not the CVT. However, a faulty torque converter can cause damage to the CVT. The only way to know is to have the fluid drained from the transmission and inspect it for metal flakes. If there are metal flakes inside then the CVT will need to be replaced. A torque converter is around $2k depending on dealer and location. A CVT replacement is about $8k.

I would take it to your local dealer and have them inspect it if you are concerned. They will know what to look for. It's an expensive repair and in IMO, not worth messing with if you do not have the knowledge or experience.
I am having a relative issue but my torque converter won't engage. It just spins at engine RPM's. Which is crankshaft speed. I checked the faults and believe it's a solenoid inside the valve body for torque converter lock up but unaware if the situation. The fault is P2673 for torque converter lock up duty cycle. I have 170k on the car and would like to get another 50 out if it. Just hoping the solenoid, cvt flush and a new tranny filter will fix the issue. I want to ohm out the sensor to assure it's broken before I start throwing parts at it.
 

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I have a 2013 Outback. One year ago, all my warning lights lit up so I brought it into Subaru. It seemed to be running fine. The diagnostics came back saying it was the transmission. My mileage was just over 100,000 and repair was honored under the warranty. I believe it was a pump which was replaced. Since then, I have noticed a whirring noise especially at higher speeds. I had brought this to their attention but was told it was normal. Yesterday the sound became much worse, the car stalled at a stoplight but then when I hit the gas it hesitated then moved forward. I drove it to Subaru and I now need a whole new transmission. Mileage is now 120,000. SOA is offering to pay 50% of the $7500 cost. Thoughts? Just not happy about this!
 

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I just got a used 2013 legacy and after driving it at higher speeds (most pronounced @ 40ish mph and happens even if I drop it into neutral) I notice it has a weird 'droning' sound. The previous owner tells me that is typically of these CVTs (the droning noise sounding like an airplane). I notice when coming to a stop that sometimes the engine does a very slight stutter (rarely, but has happened a couple times in a week).

Here's my question, being a private purchase owner can I still bring my Legacy to the Subaru dealer and have them inspect the CVT under this extended warrantee? Does this only apply to original owners, or any of the mentioned cars with under 100k miles? Mine has 95k...
 

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The warranty is for the vehicle, so it should be good on yours. The droning sound even in neutral sounds like it might be a wheel bearing.
 

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I have a 2013 Outback. One year ago, all my warning lights lit up so I brought it into Subaru. It seemed to be running fine. The diagnostics came back saying it was the transmission. My mileage was just over 100,000 and repair was honored under the warranty. I believe it was a pump which was replaced. Since then, I have noticed a whirring noise especially at higher speeds. I had brought this to their attention but was told it was normal. Yesterday the sound became much worse, the car stalled at a stoplight but then when I hit the gas it hesitated then moved forward. I drove it to Subaru and I now need a whole new transmission. Mileage is now 120,000. SOA is offering to pay 50% of the $7500 cost. Thoughts? Just not happy about this!
It was the valve body that was replaced.
 

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Why do you EXPECT Subaru to cover repairs on your out of warranty vehicle?

When do the repairs become your responsibility?

$1800 seems pretty reasonable for a CVT repair.
it is not a reasonable expectation to expect a transmission to last the life of the car. it is not a reasonable expectation to expect people to eat large repairs because Subaru claims life time fluid...
 
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