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2012 outback...103k...CVT just failed! I’m having the dealer check to see if Subaru will cover the repairs under warranty but I am feeling like that’s a long shot. Facing a 1800 repair...this should be a recall!!! My first and last Subaru I’ll ever buy. I bought this car based on the brand reliability....boy did I get burned.:frown2:
Why do you EXPECT Subaru to cover repairs on your out of warranty vehicle?

When do the repairs become your responsibility?

$1800 seems pretty reasonable for a CVT repair.
 

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Subaru Steps Up!

Fantastic news today! Subaru stepped up and is only charging me $250 for the repair! I’m so impressed with their response time and my dealers (Van Bortel Subaru Victor NY) response...their response and leeway on being just over the mileage number really puts my mind at ease! Sorry for my previous nasty comments...I was pretty upset that day, as some might understand (and others won’t, oh well) :smile2:
 

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Fantastic news today! Subaru stepped up and is only charging me $250 for the repair! I’m so impressed with their response time and my dealers (Van Bortel Subaru Victor NY) response...their response and leeway on being just over the mileage number really puts my mind at ease! Sorry for my previous nasty comments...I was pretty upset that day, as some might understand (and others won’t, oh well) :smile2:
Great to hear!

This might be a bit late but can you send me the old valve body? I'd like to try some homebrew repairs.
 

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If I ever lose a little toe in an accident I'll be sure to send it to you for some attempted homebrew fixin.
If you ever lose a tooth in an accident milk doesn't have the ideal pH balance to preserve it. In spite if what the Googler says.

Instead keep it in your cheek for your best chance of reattachment. Saline is probably best but most people don't carry that on them. You only have a very limited time, so act fast and call your dentist immediately.

Many have been reattached successfully.

:smile2:
 

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Finally decided to call dealer to inspect transmission. No idea if it’s actually transmission related. I recently had spark plugs done.

I’ve always thought the transmission was kinda wonky. It’s got the 17 mph shudder. RPMs seem to bounce when decelerating. The hard shift into reverse. Some other weird timing issues with the going from stopped to start. But the thing I noticed most concerning was about 6 months ago 68k it was really jerky going uphill when I maintained a constant speed. It’s like it’s putting along or being jerked. I kinda think fuel related. I don’t know. However today it was like I was on a wooden roller coaster being pulled uphill by...a chain. I can replicate it but not always. Seems more pronounced when cars been sitting the goes uphill. RPM usually 2-3k. It’s very noticeable. Anyway thought I’d share here. If anyone has similar experience or advice just in case dealer says....ah..everything’s good here. Everything is not good. 77k.
 

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Finally decided to call dealer to inspect transmission. No idea if it’s actually transmission related. I recently had spark plugs done.

I’ve always thought the transmission was kinda wonky. It’s got the 17 mph shudder. RPMs seem to bounce when decelerating. The hard shift into reverse. Some other weird timing issues with the going from stopped to start. But the thing I noticed most concerning was about 6 months ago 68k it was really jerky going uphill when I maintained a constant speed. It’s like it’s putting along or being jerked. I kinda think fuel related. I don’t know. However today it was like I was on a wooden roller coaster being pulled uphill by...a chain. I can replicate it but not always. Seems more pronounced when cars been sitting the goes uphill. RPM usually 2-3k. It’s very noticeable. Anyway thought I’d share here. If anyone has similar experience or advice just in case dealer says....ah..everything’s good here. Everything is not good. 77k.
Sounds like you have two problems, one with the CVT and the other with your torque converter (the jerky feeling going uphill).

Hopefully the dealer will diagnose it correctly so you can get it fixed.

Seagrass
 

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Not going to read all 22 pages, but going to post my experience.

Bought 2010 OB 2.5 July of '13 with 34k miles. Week before memorial day '16, with 260k miles, trans started to code but no perceivable difference in performance. Got to a dealer and diagnosis was remove and replace. $7500. Was in a hurry o $1k expedited shipping on top. Was back on the road right after three holiday weekend.

July of 17 I got my letter with claim form, made some phone calls, got copies of my invoice, and a link to submit my refund claim via web. Had a check for the $7500 in less than 3 weeks from receiving the letter. Also my extended warranty was listed as 1 year with no mileage stipulation like on other years.

SUPER STOKED!!!!!!

I was told it was due to around 100 cases of people getting the decel shudder and actually stalling out. I had noticed the shudder, not consistent, and no rhyme or reason, but never had a stall.

Late winter of '18 I noticed a noise with wheel speed. It wasn't a wheel bearing, I replaced the dunes with no change in sound. Took it to the dealership and they determined it was the trans(maybe even the diff) and it would need to be replaced.
With 420k miles at this point, dealer contact at Corp didn't want to approve the warranty replacement due to mileage so I called Corp myself and initiated a claim. Finally a couple weeks later I got a call saying they were legally obligated to stand by the warranty they offered. I believe it was June and around 435k when trans was actually replaced under the extended warranty program.

Shortly after that I blew a head gasket and parked it for a few months. It was burning oil a little premature, so I figured an extra $2k on top of gasket job got me a brand new short block, I did that at 449k miles. Hope to get another 200k+ out of it!
 

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Well just read through 3/4 of posts on this subject. Have '14 OB 2.5 and although being slow its been a good vehicle. I was curious about the reason why the letter on the CVT. I have not had the stalling coming to stop issue but have had a sort of jiggling or shuddering up a hill on moderate throttle at slower speeds. I saw someone referenced this at 17mph I'll have to pay closer attention. Anyway thanks all for the information on the Torque Converter lock-up information. These problems (including the shuddering) don't seem to be related to the CVT itself, but curious about SOA replacing the CVT too. Maybe they are just wanting to make sure customers are happy and if you're replacing the Torque converter you may as well do the CVT as well? I have fairly solid experience working on various cars and to me the CVT doesn't seem like it would be the source of a shudder, more like a lockup TC.

I noticed on this last page's posts some mention of a noise from drivetrain related to speed. I have noticed when driving with the windows down a noise from RF of car that sounds like maybe the wheels are not in alignment and that one is rubbing ( but I just had a alignment due to a tie-rod end and its driving perfectly). I guess that could be something with the differential for the front drive system.

Anyway, between my Sonic having a MT bearing noise from a defectively designed transmission end plate that's cropping up, my Kia Optima being inspected twice by nervous dealer folks as a recall for possible complete engine failure from crankshaft oil passage blockage and this I'm not sure any of these new cars are all that reliable.

At least we can shuffle between them if one does go down.
 
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