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2005 2.5i Limited 5MT California & 2016 base 2.5i
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Discussion Starter #1
I am planning to install Delta 1500 cams on my supercharged 2005 California Emissions EJ253.

I talked to Jon at Delta and he said that the California emissions cam would accept the EJ251 1500 grind. I believe a 2005 is basically a DBW EJ251.

I sent off spare cams to Delta and they were back in about 2 weeks round trip, cost $225 including shipping both ways.

Delta says 15-20% better flow (???). Will be very interested to see what we see.

I have looked at the motor in the car and it really seems like the engine should come out to be able to do a proper job of it. I am not really sure if you could jack the motor up enough to access everything, even with trans mount disconnected. It would probably save some time if possible.

It seems like the job is.
Pull motor and put onto stand
Pull crank pulley, timing covers, timing belt
Pull cam pulleys
CLEAN to prevent debris from going in
Pull valve covers
Pull cam cap
Swap in new cams
Replace cam cap
Replace front/rear cam seals
Replace valve cover gaskets
Set valve lash (not sure if I can do this before putting belt back on or better to do when the belt is on?)
Put it the rest all back together - Also not sure if I can get the timing belt back on once the timing tensioner pin has been pulled? Can I put a pin back in?

Supplies I have so far:
Permatex Ultra gray
Valve cover gaskets
Cam seal ( front)
cam cap (rear)

Might still need?
Company 23 crankshaft tool?
Company 23 camshaft tool?
Company 23 fuel line tool?

Clutch, headgaskets and timing belt, pulleys and water pump are all new so I am not sure if there's anything else I should be looking to replace while motor is out?

Valve lash per Delta, is slightly tighter than stock:



Plan is to do this on the existing motor setup because I want to see how much of a difference the cams alone make.
 

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2006 OutBean, 2005 LGTW
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1,059 Posts
The belt will need to be on to set valve lash.
The tensioner pin can be reinstalled into the piston but Subaru is pretty specific about how it's done. The piston needs to be pushed in slowly. Like.. really slowly. The spec in is in the FSM.

Before you pull your timing belt off and start your tear down, set your crank idler to straight up and aligned to its mark on the housing so you can spin the cam pulleys freely without risk of hitting the pistons. This will making putting everything back together easier when the time comes.

I have the company 23 tools and they're great, but, expensive. See if you can find a way to rent them or borrow a set. You can get a fuel line disconnect that works from harbor freight for cheap.
 

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Master Caster
2005 XT, Mildly Modified...2006 XT Limited, Highly Modifed
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15,977 Posts
I have the company 23 tools and they're great, but, expensive.
Every tool I own from them is so worth what you have to pay. They work flawlessly.
 

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2005 OBXT Limited, VF37, STI intake, 5MT
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1,331 Posts
You will need a few Torx and Torx Plus sockets to remove the cam cradle. Yes, you can get the job done without the Torx Plus, but it's risky if the bolts are in so-so shape.

You technically don't need the belt on/set to adjust valve lash. The only hard requirements are cold (room temp) motor and torqued heads. Having the belt on DOES allow easier rotation, especially if jumping from bank-to-bank.

The cam pulley holder is nice, but in this instance the generic Performance Tool version (W89208) works just as well (different story for the AVCS/DOHC engines): Performance Tool W89208 at Summit Racing

You'll only need a fuel line tool if you have the quick-disconnect fuel lines at the intake. You can, however, also remove the fuel lines from the fuel damper at the strut tower if you have QD fuel lines. They put up a fight, but it's just a standard clamp.

The tensioner can be "relocked" on the motor, but it's preferable to be done on a bench vice. You'll need the "grenade pin" to lock it (either the ones that come with new tensioners or a small allen key works well too). If you haven't replaced the tensioner in a while, take a close look at it: if the piston seal is leaking or wet, replace it.
 

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2005 2.5i Limited 5MT California & 2016 base 2.5i
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660 Posts
Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Ok thanks, will line up the cogged crank pulley arrow before removing anything.

I've got the Torx 40 plus bit!

I have never actually pulled a subaru motor before , going to wait until I can handle some downtime without worrying about where I need to be with the car.
 

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2006 OutBean, 2005 LGTW
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You'll want to lube up the cam seals real good with a little motor oil before installing them. If you're talking about the caps in the back, I don't recall if I used oil or not. I may have ultra-grey'd them in actually.

I looked through my photo notes to see what I did for those caps. I recall making a tool to seat them out of a hole saw I ground the teeth off of. I must have deleted those pics. Sorry
 

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2005 2.5i Limited 5MT California & 2016 base 2.5i
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Discussion Starter #8
I think that sounds right. Ultra gray on rear and just lube on front. Subarus Only has a video about it with some PVC fittings that work as the tool, about $3 total.
 

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Master Caster
2005 XT, Mildly Modified...2006 XT Limited, Highly Modifed
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15,977 Posts
The tensioner can be "relocked" on the motor, but it's preferable to be done on a bench vice. You'll need the "grenade pin" to lock it (either the ones that come with new tensioners or a small allen key works well too). If you haven't replaced the tensioner in a while, take a close look at it: if the piston seal is leaking or wet, replace it.
Also, compress the tensioner pin very slowly. You will need a bench vise, I would not trust a clamp. And by slowly, I mean 1/2mm and then come back 30 min later and another 1/2mm. It sounds ridiculous but you can blow out the piston/seal and the tensioner will be toast.
 

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2006 OutBean, 2005 LGTW
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^ is really important.
 

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2005 2.5i Limited 5MT California & 2016 base 2.5i
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660 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Wow I had no idea, thanks. I probably would have just mashed it in haha. These run from $30 to $109 on RockAuto... not something I really want to replace!
 

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2005 2.5i Limited 5MT California & 2016 base 2.5i
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Discussion Starter #12
Still getting organized. Will it work for me to yank the motor with the car up on ramps? So I can get at stuff like exhaust bolts from underneath easily, or will I run out of crane lift height?
 

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2005 Legacy Wagon Limited 4EAT
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101 Posts
It would help. I had mine on jackstands and had no problem using a Harbor Freight Cherry picker. You will have to extend the crane arm all the way to the 1/4 ton setting though in order to reach. Also, not sure if your car is automatic or manual but if it's auto, be careful with the torque converter. It's going to want to come out with the engine. You don't want this to happen. Just be prepared to give it a good shove through the torque converter bolts access hole on the top of the motor to separate it from the flywheel once things start to come apart.

Also a block of wood to rest the transmission on once you lift everything up is a great idea. What I do is leave a few bellhousing bolts in, lift the whole assembly up so that the motor mount studs are clear of the subframe, and then I put a piece of wood on the subframe under the trans and let it down gently. Then remove the bellhousing bolts, lift up slightly on the engine lift and it should wiggle loose easily.

Also a suggestion is to remove the intake manifold while it's still in the car and lift from the coolant crossover pipe. You just have much more room to see what you're doing and to maneuver things. These engines are super easy to pull.
 

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2006 OutBean, 2005 LGTW
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lift from the coolant crossover pipe
I agreed with everything you said except this. I don't think the coolant cross over pipe is an acceptable lift point. There are much better locations to lift from, such as the factory lift points or the alternator bracket mount at the front of the engine just above the crank sprocket and the boss at the back of the engine where the bulkhead wiring harness mount bolts to.
 

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2013 OBP Forester XT
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72 Posts
Glad to know Jon is still at Delta.

The Delta 1500 grind is a really nice cam. I had their 2k cams in an `01RS that I had built up...

The 1500's will pass CA emissions all day long...

The 2k grind had a quirk. It would throw a "misfire" code if using a lightened flywheel & lightened front pulley. Even though my engine was balanced, it would frustratingly toss the code on its way to the SMOG check. (I'd get it cleared and emissions state ready.... Only for it to pop up again.)

Changing out to a stock front pulley would negate the misfire quirk. Unfortunately many of us didn't figure that out until we sold the motors/cars out of state. - Something I still regret doing...

You'll be happy with the cams. Won't be a shove you in the seat difference, but the engine will seem peppier.

C.


Dyno Sheet on 7.25.09.jpg
 

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2009 Subaru Outback 2.5i
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220 Posts
Watching this thread with interest. Planning to eventually add a Delta 1500 Cam to the build list for the EJ253/255 Hybrid motor i'm building for my '09 OBW...
 

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2005 2.5i Limited 5MT California & 2016 base 2.5i
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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Nice... thanks for the info. Delta said about 20% more flow which on the 14psi supercharged motor, could be a decent mount of power although I don't know how 20% more flow equates to HP exactly. I'd read about the misfire problems but I do have stock crank pulley and flywheel so hopefully fine there.

167whp and ft lb looks great in an NA motor!
 

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2005 Legacy Wagon Limited 4EAT
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101 Posts
I agreed with everything you said except this. I don't think the coolant cross over pipe is an acceptable lift point. There are much better locations to lift from, such as the factory lift points or the alternator bracket mount at the front of the engine just above the crank sprocket and the boss at the back of the engine where the bulkhead wiring harness mount bolts to.
I can see why that would freak some people out. You're right there's probably better places to lift it from, but when i was a Subaru tech this is where I always lifted it from. Haven't broken one yet. Even last month when I was pulling this out at the junkyard with only one hook (didn't have a second chain to balance the load and needed to do what I needed to do), and then proceeded to roll that contraption 1/4 mile over gravel. These engines really aren't that heavy.

 

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2005 2.5i Limited 5MT California & 2016 base 2.5i
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Discussion Starter #19
Where would I find a manual transmission timing belt guide tool (thing you put between the guide and belt when tightening) outside of a timing belt kit?
 

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2006 OutBean, 2005 LGTW
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Where would I find a manual transmission timing belt guide tool (thing you put between the guide and belt when tightening) outside of a timing belt kit?
Use feeler gauges. The spec is in the fsm.
 
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