Subaru Outback Forums banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So, I done messed up. After quite a bit of research, I decided to tackle my 2013 2.5 30k mile service myself. Everything went fine with one MINOR exception. The last thing I did, which of course I am now regretting was change the diff fluid. I really didn't need to do it based on user info and the manual (I do not drive in 'severe' conditions), but I figured in for a pound in for a penny. Rear diff was very easy no issues, but I put 2 qts of diff fluid in the wrong hole on the front. I THINK what I've done here is put 2 qts of diff fluid in the CVT filler which is a 10mm hex bolt on the driver's side just above the diff itself. I did not fill up a passenger side hole that required me to pull a rubber hose out.

Anyone have advice? I stopped what I was doing because, after 2 qts, no fluid was coming out of the overflow hole on the bottom of the diff. Just how screwed am I? Obviously I have not driven the car. Can the CVT be flushed out properly then refilled? I did do what I think I did right? HELP!!
 

·
Registered
2013 Outback 2.5i Convenience
Joined
·
1,239 Posts
Sadly I think you added diff fluid to the wrong place if you did not see any oil coming out of the fill hole after 2 quarts. The good thing is you did not drive it and the oil did not get a chance to run through the valve body (this is where things get royally screwed (I hear)).

Obviously you did drain the front diff, right? Have you removed the diff drain plug again to confirm no oil is in there? Redundant I know....

I dont have the manual handy, but I think the oil fill adds to the trans reservoir/pan, should not have encountered the valves... I would drain the cvt, fill with fluid, drain, fill, drain, and refill again. After three, I think I would be OK with driving it. If it does not lock up after 20 miles it might be OK. I might even drain/fill again after that...

If you're really not sure, have the dealer fix it up (have it towed!!!)

As a footnote, make sure you do fill that front diff before you do drive! Don't want you to cook the diff while you're at it!
 

·
Registered
2015 3.6 Premium
Joined
·
1,130 Posts
Have it towed and let the dealer fix it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22,836 Posts
We had kid do this about 3 months back the cvt locked up and died... big $$$$$$$$$$$$$ no no mistake.. tow to dealer and have it flushed and checked. I had two 2010's get front and rear diff service and cvt drain fill at my local dealer. First diff service was $115 for front and rear cvt was $180. Few months later same service different car $80 diffs and $180 cvt. Pretty fair prices for a dealer surrounded by million dollar homes.
 

·
Registered
2013 3.6R SAP BBP Outback
Joined
·
717 Posts
One thing to consider is that you overfilled the CVT by 2 quarts, so diff oil may have ended up in places that can't be "rinsed" unless you also overfill on the flushes. I also have no idea how "mixable" the 2 oils are so there may be a better way to clean things out than just using CVT fluid. Given the mind-bending costs of the CVT, I would opt for a tow to a dealer. And disconnect the battery so no one tries to start it.
 

·
Registered
2013 Outback 2.5i Convenience
Joined
·
1,239 Posts
Slept on it, dealer may be better option. They'll do what I wrote but hopefully have some way to inspect in there. It's just that valve body, really does not like other fluid.. . I'd also expect them to say you have no guarantee it will work and no powertrain warranty after since incorrect fluids were mixed. Hope I'm wrong on that!

I thought the cvt was a nice unit when I bought my ob, after reading some people's experiences, it is morphing into this black abyss! Very hesitant to touch it and I'm very comfortable with repairs.
 

·
Registered
2013 Outback Limited 2.5 EyeSight & 2010 Legacy Premium, 2010 OB Limited (traded)
Joined
·
2,128 Posts
I have a little different thought on this. I have very little confidence in the dealer's ability or incentive to do the right thing in a lot of instances that have been reported on the forum. Things like trying to get $8000. for a CVT when a car just needs a torque converter and it was a known issue on top of that. Other things like when wanting to change a harness for $2700. for a problem that is known to be caused by just multiple bulbs out or sometimes LED replacements. Anyway once you have your car towed to the dealer and admit your wrong doing they will do what they think is right whether they know what to do or not. Even if they do good I would expect your CVT power train warranty is gone at that point. Why not flush it out yourself and keep your CVT warranty? That's most likely all they are going to do anyway.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22,836 Posts
I have a little different thought on this. I have very little confidence in the dealer's ability or incentive to do the right thing in a lot of instances that have been reported on the forum. Things like trying to get $8000. for a CVT when a car just needs a torque converter and it was a known issue on top of that. Other things like when wanting to change a harness for $2700. for a problem that is known to be caused by just multiple bulbs out or sometimes LED replacements. Anyway once you have your car towed to the dealer and admit your wrong doing they will do what they think is right whether they know what to do or not. Even if they do good I would expect your CVT power train warranty is gone at that point. Why not flush it out yourself and keep your CVT warranty? That's most likely all they are going to do anyway.
Dealers are a dime a dozen not all of them are corrupt Oakland CA dealers who want to charge $8000 for a Torque converter fix. Sorta like saying Every guy out there is a criminal and thug because you watch Fox news every morning when they cover violent crimes and they all appear to be men involved.
 

·
Registered
2013 Outback Limited 2.5 EyeSight & 2010 Legacy Premium, 2010 OB Limited (traded)
Joined
·
2,128 Posts
Dealers are a dime a dozen not all of them are corrupt Oakland CA dealers who want to charge $8000 for a Torque converter fix. Sorta like saying Every guy out there is a criminal and thug because you watch Fox news every morning when they cover violent crimes and they all appear to be men involved.
Didn't mean to sound like every dealer is a crook. Many are good, some may be crooks and I am not very confident in the skill level with a lot of them. Regardless of where they fall, I think I would take my chances and do it myself rather than have them do it and most likely void my cvt warranty.
I would love to send my wife around to 100 of these "honest" dealers and request the 30,000 mile service and see what she ends up with.
 

·
Registered
2016 Outback 2.5i Premium w/nav/eye
Joined
·
366 Posts
problem may also be lack of dealers...if op is from ec canada i'm thinking maybe vancouver, and i'd bet maybe two at best in that city.
 

·
Registered
2019 Ascent Touring / 2019 Tesla M3
Joined
·
621 Posts
Subiesailor.... that's why we call them "Stealerships!"

JUST KIDDING.

It's very clear that there are great dealers, OK dealers, and looser dealers.

-grin-

I'd probably clean it out with suction, making sure that ALL of my equipment to flawlessly clean before hand, then think of a way to use WARM/HOT CVT FLUID to rinse it out.

The key is to get to GL fuild out and the CVT fluid in, mix around, and then suck the contaminate CVT out as well, and then get more CVT in.

****, I'd even consider going to another dealer to purchase the CVT fluid.
 

·
Registered
2011 Outback Limited 2.5i/2018 Crosstrek limited
Joined
·
4,448 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
So, I done messed up. After quite a bit of research, I decided to tackle my 2013 2.5 30k mile service myself. Everything went fine with one MINOR exception. The last thing I did, which of course I am now regretting was change the diff fluid. I really didn't need to do it based on user info and the manual (I do not drive in 'severe' conditions), but I figured in for a pound in for a penny. Rear diff was very easy no issues, but I put 2 qts of diff fluid in the wrong hole on the front. I THINK what I've done here is put 2 qts of diff fluid in the CVT filler which is a 10mm hex bolt on the driver's side just above the diff itself. I did not fill up a passenger side hole that required me to pull a rubber hose out.

Anyone have advice? I stopped what I was doing because, after 2 qts, no fluid was coming out of the overflow hole on the bottom of the diff. Just how screwed am I? Obviously I have not driven the car. Can the CVT be flushed out properly then refilled? I did do what I think I did right? HELP!!
What ended up happening? Were you able to take to dealership and have it flushed without problems?
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top