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Transmission installed, TCM reset (used my Autel 906BT), I've put about 100 miles on it. it works perfectly! 0 issues whatsoever. if your thinking of replacing your '14 wagon CVT do yourself a favor and get a '15/'16 sedan CVT. It's not 100% plug and play, but SUPER easy to change over the top plate and the cooler lines.

Hey I had some question about a transmission swap for my 13 subaru outback wagon, I put a 15 legacy sedan trans in and swapped wiring harness over and the trans lines but now it wont go into any gear, and im getting a p0841 and p0700, i was wondering if I needed to do a trans relearn or somthing before it will go into gear, View attachment 538649 View attachment 538649
 
Hey I had some question about a transmission swap for my 13 subaru outback wagon, I put a 15 legacy sedan trans in and swapped wiring harness over and the trans lines but now it wont go into any gear, and im getting a p0841 and p0700, i was wondering if I needed to do a trans relearn or somthing before it will go into gear, View attachment 538649 View attachment 538649
Font Asphalt Terrestrial plant Screenshot Soil
 
Hey I had some question about a transmission swap for my 13 subaru outback wagon, I put a 15 legacy sedan trans in and swapped wiring harness over and the trans lines but now it wont go into any gear, and im getting a p0841 and p0700, i was wondering if I needed to do a trans relearn or somthing before it will go into gear, View attachment 538649 View attachment 538649
Check continuity of the fluid pressure sensor and wiring harness. Sounds like it's not going into gear because it's not getting the expected signal from the fluid pressure sensor. See Service Bulletin for P0841 diagnosis here: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2016/MC-10111091-9999.pdf
 
Nevermind...as expected, the torque converter wasn't fully seated.

I hate to be the guy that drags up an old thread but I'm stuck. I'm working on putting a newer legacy transmission into my wife's 2014 OB. Everything was going fine until it came time to tighten the bell housing bolts. I slid the transmission/engine together as far as possible; till the alignment pins started into the holes. When I start pulling the engine and transmission together with the bell housing bolts the assembly binds up so the engine won't turn over.

Any ideas? I'm using the newer torque converter that came with the legacy transmission. I left the torque converter on the transmission and made sure it was fully seated before mating to the engine; this is how I usually do it when changing a transmission but this is my first Subaru transmission change. I have a couple of the torque converter to flex plate bolts installed.
 
Ok, I finally had time to work on my 2014 Legacy Outback Wagon CVT. Here's what I ended up doing. I noticed that the 2014 Wagon and the 2016 Sedan have the same final drive ratio, which is important since the front differential is basically integral with the Transmission (at least I wasn't willing to swap them) I also went this route because the prices and selections of used ones on Car-Part.com was WAY better than the 14 wagons. I knew going in that the TCM (Transmission Computer) was different as in my 14 wagon it mounts behind the glove box and on the 16 sedan it mounts on top of the transmission itself AND they were made by different manufacturers. So I ordered up a transmission out of a 2016 Legacy Sedan that had 7,000 miles on it for $275 plus shipping and got to it. the ONLY things that will need to be swapped is the top cover (held on by 12 10mm bolts on top of the transmission) and the cooler lines (unbolt from case). The top cover of the transmission uses a metal gasket and I did reuse it with no problem, once the cover is off, you will see a white electrical plug that attaches the top cover to the transmission, simply unplug it and use the cover and wiring harness off of your original transmission. I will attempt to upload some pictures. View attachment 478485 View attachment 478476 View attachment 478477 View attachment 478480
Hi!!! May I borrow these photos for a vid I am making on the TR580 and TR690? Apparently, I am not allowed to pull one apart from a dealer loaner car. :mad: :ROFLMAO:
 
Nevermind...as expected, the torque converter wasn't fully seated.

I hate to be the guy that drags up an old thread but I'm stuck. I'm working on putting a newer legacy transmission into my wife's 2014 OB. Everything was going fine until it came time to tighten the bell housing bolts. I slid the transmission/engine together as far as possible; till the alignment pins started into the holes. When I start pulling the engine and transmission together with the bell housing bolts the assembly binds up so the engine won't turn over.

Any ideas? I'm using the newer torque converter that came with the legacy transmission. I left the torque converter on the transmission and made sure it was fully seated before mating to the engine; this is how I usually do it when changing a transmission but this is my first Subaru transmission change. I have a couple of the torque converter to flex plate bolts installed.
Let us know how it works out!
 
Pretty good so far. Finished up yesterday and drove the car for some errands. Then the wife wanted to go to a rodeo that was about an hour away so we took the OB. Drove really nice, but the comparison is the old transmission which jerked like crazy and had torque bind so…

There seems to be a slight wobble at low speed during acceleration. Not sure what it is or if it really exists. I’ll keep checking things over and putting some drive time on the car.

The transmission came out of a 2017 Legacy. I used the torque converter that came with the transmission. I swapped out the top plate, wiring harness and cooler lines.
 
Pretty good so far. Finished up yesterday and drove the car for some errands. Then the wife wanted to go to a rodeo that was about an hour away so we took the OB. Drove really nice, but the comparison is the old transmission which jerked like crazy and had torque bind so…

There seems to be a slight wobble at low speed during acceleration. Not sure what it is or if it really exists. I’ll keep checking things over and putting some drive time on the car.

The transmission came out of a 2017 Legacy. I used the torque converter that came with the transmission. I swapped out the top plate, wiring harness and cooler lines.
Nice work! How's the condition of your transmission mount? If that's worn or cracked, it could cause a low speed wobble. Some of the lifted guys install a "cke" rubber insert to stiffen up that mount and reduce the low speed wobble from the increased prop shaft angle.
 
Nice work! How's the condition of your transmission mount? If that's worn or cracked, it could cause a low speed wobble. Some of the lifted guys install a "cke" rubber insert to stiffen up that mount and reduce the low speed wobble from the increased prop shaft angle.
I looked at the mount before installation, checking for cracks and general appearance. It looked good. But I just crawled back under the car and noticed that the rubber on the center bolt is no longer touching the mount. I think I’ll order a new mount. Thanks for leading me down that path.
 
New member, old Subaru guy. This thread is exactly why Subaru enthusaists make good friends. Thanks for posting this BNoland. I'll be doing the 15-17 swap into a 14 OBW next week. There are seasoned pros here in Oregon that dont know this great hack. I was one of them and asked around to the other old guys in Subaru circles. They all thought the 2013 was a one way street. Turns out it easier and actually follows Subaru swap logic. Match the ratio, match the harness connectors, (in this case one harness connector will feed the exact same valve body and it swaps externally), WahLa we have lift-off. Special thanks for writing this up BNoland and others who also shared your swap issues and success.
 
I'm assuming the "fake shift points" is a function of the TCM (which is still the original unit behind the glovebox)

I went with the 906BT because it does have some of the functionality of the 908P (minus the J box) So I was able to go into the TCM, select "Special Function" then "Clear AT learning Value" and then "Compulsory Learning Mode" which had me hold the brake pedal in D and R if i remember correctly. I think its an important step to take, to reset the pressures/etc. that were still programmed in from the failed 100k mile unit.

I hope this is helpful to others!
Very much so - this helped me a ton. Link Here
Looks like you are not on this board much anymore, but I hope this message finds you.
 
I completed my swap about three weeks ago. There was no reprogramming or relearn necessary.
The harnesses swapped over so easily a caveman could’ve done it.
It fired right up and worked beautifully did the warm top off procedure.
Very simple and straightforward, thanks for the good instructions and the tips.
My donor was a 2015 Legacy Sedan the recipient was a 2014 outback wagon.
This will help a lot of people going forward.
(Subaru Shop owner in Oregon)
 
ok let me clear some faq on this follow up
I have a bit over 13k on this swap
15 up legacy have the same 390 ratio
you can use 15-17 in the swap ( mine was an 17 )
you can use either the og converter or the one from the newer car ( i used the new one and then my engine was replaced for headgasket leaks with a low miles one, converter locater snapped in crank, used the original converter from that point on, it works fine)
You must used the harness, vent tube and top cover from your original 13/14 trans. BE carefull removing it..
You dont want or need to mess with the valvebody. the new ones are fine
Check the axle seals, the plastic caps fugg them up .
everything is direct swap, no mods other than harness, vent tube and top cover swap
you should clear the codes and adaption in the old TCM. ( instructions are online or just have someone with a scanner do it' otherwise it may not work at its best. it will work , mine worked better after it was cleared YMMV)
you will notice when the car is cold, the car will feel sluggish. this is normal,
when the car is warm, it is VERY direct connected feeling..
You will get 24-27 mpg on the highway no problem

If you get codes, you either have damaged the harness or you have loose connections or bad sensors or a bad unit.
make sure you follow up oil change if the trans was outside

Its a good idea to change the radiator as it has a cooler and gets crap in it ( lots came out of mine)

I bought my trans with 6k miles from a scrap yard for $250 in NC like 40 minutes away
Look around...they are CHEAP. Car-parts.com is a great place to look as it lists them by final drive ratio
I am looking for outbacks here with bad transmissions because i can flip them and make a boatload ( all 13/14 cars are common to have bad cvt's)
 
Hello all - I know this is an older thread....with some fairly recent posts....but I have a question. I have a 2015 TR580 with 190k miles....it it doing ok right now...but need to do an engine swap. I found a 2018 TR580 - and I am pretty sure the final gear ratio is the same...but the codes are a little different:
TR580GH ZAB (2015)
TR580GH WAA (donor transmission) (2015)

Anyone know if I could have success swapping these?
 
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