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I have a standard 2.5L EJ25D 99 legacy outback. When I turn slowly and sharply my rear axle makes a clunking noise. As I make the turn it also "hops". Could it be a bad CV joint? I think it might be the differential but am wondering if anyone else experienced this. If it is the differential, does anyone know the final gear ratio for this model? Thanks
 

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The AWD transfer system might be malfunctioning. Search here for "torque bind". There's a good number of discussions.

If it's a manual transmission, then the cause could well be a failed AWD viscous coupler. If it's an automatic, there's several possibilities. In the MT case, the only real fix is to replace the center differential/coupler. In the AT case, there have been instances where multiple ATF changes have resolved the problem, but it might not and a replacement/rebuild of the transfer valving and/or clutch is needed.
 

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Please do not post identical threads in multiple forums, it really clutters things up.

I merged the 2 with responses and deleted the 3rd.
 

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Not likely.

Is your vehicle an auto? If so, how old is the ATF? Do all 4 tires match in wear and diameter?

Put a fuse in the FWD slot under the hood. Does the vehicle still behave the same way?
 

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Its a Manual. I am going to jack the car up today and push the wheel in and out to see if it is a wheel bearing. But like you said it is unlikely that it is the problem.
 

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any work, mods or wrecks before this began?

99 is old enough to possibly have drivetrain problems anywhere in the system including rear axles and u-joints, etc.
 

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Its a Manual. I am going to jack the car up today and push the wheel in and out to see if it is a wheel bearing. But like you said it is unlikely that it is the problem.
While you have each wheel off the ground for that, take a moment to measure the circumference at center of tread with a tape or bit of wire. Compare the measurements.

WBs in subarus tend to announce themselves with low howling noises at speed. It's actually harder to find one by feeling for radial play, at least until they are way gone.
 

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you have torque bind. go diagnose that first then ask about other possibilities.

you need a new center differential to fix the torque bind.

torque bind stresses the entire driveline...including the clutch depending how you drive...so the two issues could be exacerbating the other.

it's annoying to drop the trans but if you did it would make fixing the torque bind easier (although fixing torque bind can be done in the car).
 

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replacing a clutch is NOT more worrisome than torque bind.

suggestions were made to encourage you to search for the term to educate yourself.

Try idling through some tight donuts in a paved parking lot. it should do those smoothly like a normal car. jerking/clunking is most likely caused by a center diff that has locked up the front and rear axles together. It COULD be something as simple as mismatched tires(you did measure them as suggested right?). But, it may also mean you need a new transmission. If you can confirm the torque bind is due to a bad center diff - just have the clutch changed when you install the replacement tranny.

if you post your city, someone may be able to recommend a shop to help diagnose what's wrong with your car.
 

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I've been reading up on the torque bind and the major symptoms such as the wheel is yard to turn and the car shakes does not happen while turning. Are there any other possibilities?
 

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I've been reading up on the torque bind and the major symptoms such as the wheel is yard to turn and the car shakes does not happen while turning. Are there any other possibilities?
It could be the diff. I suggested torque bind because that happens more often than diff failure, but yes it could be the differential. If you think that's the problem, start by checking the oil level.

Rear CVs get the same stress whether you are turning or going straight, so I'd rule them out.

Regarding torque bind- your description of a 'hop' was what led me to suggest it in the first place.
 
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rasterman
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