Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland, 5.7 Hemi, Tow IV Package
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This is on a 2011 3.6L engine, but if you look in your FSM you will see the location of the drain plug and filter for your engine.
First things first: make sure you have everything you need.
- Proper amount of oil (7 quarts for the 3.6)
- Oil filter
- Crush washer
- Rubber gloves (recommended)
- Filter wrench
- 17mm socket and ratchet
- Torque wrench (recommended)
- Funnel
- Catch pan
- Aluminum foil (you’ll see)
Typically, there is no need to jack up the car. If you need extra room, you can use a 2x4 or two under the front wheels. The car should be as level as possible. Set the E- brake.
First, I would start by removing the filter. Especially if this is the 1st interval on your car. The factory filter can be really tight, and if you can’t get it off you don’t want to have to put new oil in your car just to have it dumped out at the dealer when they do it. Mine was not bad at all. Filter wrenches differ, but here is mine:
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/pJ541JAGnAf2q-0jbnbMy9MTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0
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The filter spins off just like you would remove a screw (counter clock wise from the wrench end). Be careful when you put the wrench on, there is a wire loom that runs just above the filter. You don't want it caught in the wrench.
I wrap any part of the car under the filter with aluminum foil. This makes clean up a snap if you get oil on it. The air dam is the only thing near the filter and shouldn't get any oil on it, but on other cars there may be exhaust pipes or stuff near it. Once you break it free, oil will start to drain, so make sure you are out of the way and the catch pan is under it. I usually let it drain before I spin it the rest of the way off.
![]()
While it is not a “must”, I put nearly 1/3 quart of oil in the new filter and let it soak in before spinning the new one on. This hastens the flow on the first start. It should all soak into the element. Do a little at a time to ensure you don’t over do it and have it running out when you spin it on (2.5 owners will not have the problem) . Also, lube the O ring (looks gray in pic) with a little fresh oil.
![]()
Spin the new filter on until the O ring makes good contact, then spin an additional ¾ of a turn. It should be pretty snug by hand. There is a torque spec, but if you are that “AR” then you already know all this stuff
The drain plug on the 3.6 is on the bottom passenger side of the pan.
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Place the socket wrench on the plug head and remove. Make sure you are turning in the correct direction. From here, I pull the wrench toward the camera.
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If this is the first change, the crush washer will probably be painted on the drain plug.
To remove, insert a small screwdriver between the washer and the threads. Then gently twist as if removing a screw. The washer will break free easily. Note the flat side is towards the bolt head. MAKE SURE YOU REMOVE IT! Doubling up will result in leaks!
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Place the new washer on with the flat side toward the head and re install it in the pan. Using the torque wrench set at 12- 20 lb- feet (16- 27 Newton meters for yall on that side of the pond) and snug down.
The fill port and dipstick are on the driver’s side of the engine bay. Twist open the fill (big yellow cap, not shown because funnel is there but it is on top of the battery) and place a funnel in it and slowly add the oil. The dipstick is just to the left of the funnel (arrow). The dipstick is pulled straight up to remove.
![]()
After adding the specified amount of oil, replace the cap and make sure everything is out of the engine bay. Start the engine and let it run for 2 minutes or so. MAKE SURE THE OIL LIGHT ON THE DASH GOES OUT! If it does not go out in < 10 seconds, shut the car off and check the oil level (did you put the plug back in?) Re check the oil level with the dipstick after the car sits for several minutes. Pull the dipstick out, wipe it off, re insert it, pull it out again and look. The level should be between the two holes.
![]()
If it is below the bottom hole, add more oil to bring it within the two. If all is good, put the dipstick back in and clean up. You just changed your own oil! Celebrate!
![]()
First things first: make sure you have everything you need.
- Proper amount of oil (7 quarts for the 3.6)
- Oil filter
- Crush washer
- Rubber gloves (recommended)
- Filter wrench
- 17mm socket and ratchet
- Torque wrench (recommended)
- Funnel
- Catch pan
- Aluminum foil (you’ll see)
Typically, there is no need to jack up the car. If you need extra room, you can use a 2x4 or two under the front wheels. The car should be as level as possible. Set the E- brake.
First, I would start by removing the filter. Especially if this is the 1st interval on your car. The factory filter can be really tight, and if you can’t get it off you don’t want to have to put new oil in your car just to have it dumped out at the dealer when they do it. Mine was not bad at all. Filter wrenches differ, but here is mine:
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/pJ541JAGnAf2q-0jbnbMy9MTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0
The filter spins off just like you would remove a screw (counter clock wise from the wrench end). Be careful when you put the wrench on, there is a wire loom that runs just above the filter. You don't want it caught in the wrench.
I wrap any part of the car under the filter with aluminum foil. This makes clean up a snap if you get oil on it. The air dam is the only thing near the filter and shouldn't get any oil on it, but on other cars there may be exhaust pipes or stuff near it. Once you break it free, oil will start to drain, so make sure you are out of the way and the catch pan is under it. I usually let it drain before I spin it the rest of the way off.
While it is not a “must”, I put nearly 1/3 quart of oil in the new filter and let it soak in before spinning the new one on. This hastens the flow on the first start. It should all soak into the element. Do a little at a time to ensure you don’t over do it and have it running out when you spin it on (2.5 owners will not have the problem) . Also, lube the O ring (looks gray in pic) with a little fresh oil.
Spin the new filter on until the O ring makes good contact, then spin an additional ¾ of a turn. It should be pretty snug by hand. There is a torque spec, but if you are that “AR” then you already know all this stuff
The drain plug on the 3.6 is on the bottom passenger side of the pan.
Place the socket wrench on the plug head and remove. Make sure you are turning in the correct direction. From here, I pull the wrench toward the camera.
If this is the first change, the crush washer will probably be painted on the drain plug.
To remove, insert a small screwdriver between the washer and the threads. Then gently twist as if removing a screw. The washer will break free easily. Note the flat side is towards the bolt head. MAKE SURE YOU REMOVE IT! Doubling up will result in leaks!
Place the new washer on with the flat side toward the head and re install it in the pan. Using the torque wrench set at 12- 20 lb- feet (16- 27 Newton meters for yall on that side of the pond) and snug down.
The fill port and dipstick are on the driver’s side of the engine bay. Twist open the fill (big yellow cap, not shown because funnel is there but it is on top of the battery) and place a funnel in it and slowly add the oil. The dipstick is just to the left of the funnel (arrow). The dipstick is pulled straight up to remove.
After adding the specified amount of oil, replace the cap and make sure everything is out of the engine bay. Start the engine and let it run for 2 minutes or so. MAKE SURE THE OIL LIGHT ON THE DASH GOES OUT! If it does not go out in < 10 seconds, shut the car off and check the oil level (did you put the plug back in?) Re check the oil level with the dipstick after the car sits for several minutes. Pull the dipstick out, wipe it off, re insert it, pull it out again and look. The level should be between the two holes.
If it is below the bottom hole, add more oil to bring it within the two. If all is good, put the dipstick back in and clean up. You just changed your own oil! Celebrate!
