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Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland, 5.7 Hemi, Tow IV Package
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
This is on a 2011 3.6L engine, but if you look in your FSM you will see the location of the drain plug and filter for your engine.
First things first: make sure you have everything you need.
- Proper amount of oil (7 quarts for the 3.6)
- Oil filter
- Crush washer

- Rubber gloves (recommended)
- Filter wrench
- 17mm socket and ratchet
- Torque wrench (recommended)
- Funnel
- Catch pan
- Aluminum foil (you’ll see)

Typically, there is no need to jack up the car. If you need extra room, you can use a 2x4 or two under the front wheels. The car should be as level as possible. Set the E- brake.
First, I would start by removing the filter. Especially if this is the 1st interval on your car. The factory filter can be really tight, and if you can’t get it off you don’t want to have to put new oil in your car just to have it dumped out at the dealer when they do it. Mine was not bad at all. Filter wrenches differ, but here is mine:
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/pJ541JAGnAf2q-0jbnbMy9MTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0

The filter spins off just like you would remove a screw (counter clock wise from the wrench end). Be careful when you put the wrench on, there is a wire loom that runs just above the filter. You don't want it caught in the wrench.
I wrap any part of the car under the filter with aluminum foil. This makes clean up a snap if you get oil on it. The air dam is the only thing near the filter and shouldn't get any oil on it, but on other cars there may be exhaust pipes or stuff near it. Once you break it free, oil will start to drain, so make sure you are out of the way and the catch pan is under it. I usually let it drain before I spin it the rest of the way off.


While it is not a “must”, I put nearly 1/3 quart of oil in the new filter and let it soak in before spinning the new one on. This hastens the flow on the first start. It should all soak into the element. Do a little at a time to ensure you don’t over do it and have it running out when you spin it on (2.5 owners will not have the problem) . Also, lube the O ring (looks gray in pic) with a little fresh oil.



Spin the new filter on until the O ring makes good contact, then spin an additional ¾ of a turn. It should be pretty snug by hand. There is a torque spec, but if you are that “AR” then you already know all this stuff :p

The drain plug on the 3.6 is on the bottom passenger side of the pan.

Place the socket wrench on the plug head and remove. Make sure you are turning in the correct direction. From here, I pull the wrench toward the camera.


If this is the first change, the crush washer will probably be painted on the drain plug.

To remove, insert a small screwdriver between the washer and the threads. Then gently twist as if removing a screw. The washer will break free easily. Note the flat side is towards the bolt head. MAKE SURE YOU REMOVE IT! Doubling up will result in leaks!





Place the new washer on with the flat side toward the head and re install it in the pan. Using the torque wrench set at 12- 20 lb- feet (16- 27 Newton meters for yall on that side of the pond) and snug down.
The fill port and dipstick are on the driver’s side of the engine bay. Twist open the fill (big yellow cap, not shown because funnel is there but it is on top of the battery) and place a funnel in it and slowly add the oil. The dipstick is just to the left of the funnel (arrow). The dipstick is pulled straight up to remove.

After adding the specified amount of oil, replace the cap and make sure everything is out of the engine bay. Start the engine and let it run for 2 minutes or so. MAKE SURE THE OIL LIGHT ON THE DASH GOES OUT! If it does not go out in < 10 seconds, shut the car off and check the oil level (did you put the plug back in?) Re check the oil level with the dipstick after the car sits for several minutes. Pull the dipstick out, wipe it off, re insert it, pull it out again and look. The level should be between the two holes.

If it is below the bottom hole, add more oil to bring it within the two. If all is good, put the dipstick back in and clean up. You just changed your own oil! Celebrate!
 

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Meh.
I has wagons.
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What oil did you use? I don't recognize that bottle.
 

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Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland, 5.7 Hemi, Tow IV Package
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yup, that it is. I figure why not. Subie is closer than the nearest auto parts store and it cost about what I pay for the VR-1 I put in the Jeep. I'm sticking with OEM filters under warranty anyway due to all the relief valve discussion.
 

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Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland, 5.7 Hemi, Tow IV Package
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Good write up and pics. Where did you get the snazzy oil filter wrench?
Thanks! I got this one at Pep Boys. I think it was called a "spider wrench", but Sears has them too. It only works to take them off, though. On the Subie there is plenty of room to tighten by hand so that shouldn't be an issue. I've used it on everything from a 500cc Suzuki to a F-250.
 

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2011 Subie 3.6R Limited 2013 Cmax e=nergi PHEV
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Thanks a heap for the nice pictorial walk through. As soon as my black filters arrive I will be doing the same. I am at 2800 mi now. I am going to put in the futomo valve. I have used them on my last two cars and it has performed well.

I guess you decided the Synthetic option wasn't necessary? I have never used Syn but was considering going that route.

Nice touch with the Sierra. Well done.





Last pic. SN Pale Ale, my favorite beer. Too bad it's impossible to find in my province.
Try Mendocino's "Eye of the Hawk" - I think you'll like it. Can you get Anchor up there? Had to throw up a few more props for CA brews in the oil change thread. Stone brewery in San Diego brews up a few delicious offerings.
 

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2011 2.5i Premium Caramel Brown
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Thanks for the foil and the screwdriver tips! I tried scraping my thumbnail across the crush washer...then tried to big of a screwdriver...almost thought they had left it off.
Reread your painted on comment...took one last look and sure enough it was off set just enough to show it was NOT part of the original plug. Found a screw driver just bigger then the eyeglass size, one twist and it popped right off. Mahalo!
 

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2011 2.5i Premium CVT Azurite Blue Pearl
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I just had a Sierra Nevada pale ale myself after repainting the bedroom.

Now if I don't have a new crush washer, is it the end of the world? Dealer did the first oil change already. I am already at 3,600 miles on the last oil, so don't wanna wait for an order of subaru filters, washers and oil. O'Reilly's has a special at the moment for castrol full synth and mobile-1 filters, should do in a pinch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I just had a Sierra Nevada pale ale myself after repainting the bedroom.

Now if I don't have a new crush washer, is it the end of the world? Dealer did the first oil change already. I am already at 3,600 miles on the last oil, so don't wanna wait for an order of subaru filters, washers and oil. O'Reilly's has a special at the moment for castrol full synth and mobile-1 filters, should do in a pinch.
Truthfully, no. You can re use it. On my motorcycles I use them 2 or 3 times because the oil gets changed after every other track session (and I'm a cheap [email protected]@rd). FWIW, you can buy just the crush washer at your dealer for about $1.20.
 

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For the 2.5i h4 - a 15mm socket is needed for the oil drain.

For my first time changing the oil, I had a lot of spill. Next time, it will all go in the pan :p
 

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"Tank" - 2011 OB 3.6R w/ Nav & Moonroof in Graphite Grey
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Truthfully, no. You can re use it. On my motorcycles I use them 2 or 3 times because the oil gets changed after every other track session (and I'm a cheap [email protected]@rd). FWIW, you can buy just the crush washer at your dealer for about $1.20.
I'm fairly sure reusing it is a no-no per the owners manual. It's a crush gasket so once it's crushed, can it seal again? I didn't want to mess with them so I put on a fumoto valve. FUMOTO ENGINEERING
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
For the 2.5i h4 - a 15mm socket is needed for the oil drain.

For my first time changing the oil, I had a lot of spill. Next time, it will all go in the pan :p
Doesn't the 2.5 filter install perpendicular to the ground (the open end faces up)? For those, and even the 3.6 where the filter is horizontal, you can use a sharp awl or punch to poke a hole in the end (or low point on the 3.6) of it to drain the filter. This alleviates some of the mess. The shell is pretty thin. DO NOT use a hammer, just press it through with your hand.

I'm fairly sure reusing it is a no-no per the owners manual. It's a crush gasket so once it's crushed, can it seal again? I didn't want to mess with them so I put on a fumoto valve. FUMOTO ENGINEERING
I will be putting in the Fumoto at the next OCI. As far as the washer goes, you are right. The manual says to use a new one. It is not necessary though. The washer/ plug is not holding back any pressure other than the weight of the oil in the pan. A properly torqued plug will not leak even with a used washer. FWIW, I have seen guys run races with drain plugs finger tight because they got distracted for whatever reason. Yes, they were lucky. And so was everyone behind them!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Sorry if this is slightly off topic but does this mean that your average minute-lube quickie oil change place will NOT be changing these crush washers as part of an oil-change?
I'd ask to be sure, but I doubt it. Heck, I have yet to see them even use a torque wrench.
 

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2011 Subaru Outback 3.6R Crystal Black
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I have the Fumoto Valve for my 2.5i, but I am trading it on a 3.6R next week. Can someone who has a 3.6R and the Fumoto Valve tell me if they are the same plug size? I asked the parts dept at my dealer, he said NO, but I want to make sure.
 

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"Tank" - 2011 OB 3.6R w/ Nav & Moonroof in Graphite Grey
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