DIY 2.5 2011 oil change??
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The instructions in the owners manual are pretty good actually,even has pics/drawings I believe. Best I've ever seen in an owners manual.
Make sure you let the heat shield cool(atleast 10 minutes) before you go and try reaching for the oil filter. I have burned myself twice!! It gets so hot.....By the time you realized you just burned yourself or are burning yourself....the deed is done. Its sizzling hot still after 5 mins.
Yep...just check it...
Yep...just check it...
Also....4.2 quarts equals right around 4 liters if that helps. The OEM filter should only cost you around 8 bucks with the crush ring. Dont forget the crush ring.
ALSO...for ease. You could just fill your filter with oil before you install it. Then just throw in 4 quarts and your good. That .2 always through me off. The filter is where the .2 comes from.
ALSO...for ease. You could just fill your filter with oil before you install it. Then just throw in 4 quarts and your good. That .2 always through me off. The filter is where the .2 comes from.
Here is one on the 3.6- http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums...d-guides/31533-diy-10-11-3-6r-oil-change.html
I think the only differences are 1) location/position of filter and quantity of oil (although you should have someone with a 2.5 review this and confirm). Also, if you are going to do your own oil changes regularly, you may want to consider replacing your drain plug with a fumoto valve. One less tool required, and no need to stock up on those little washer thingies. QuickOilDrainValve.com - the best way to change oil
I think the only differences are 1) location/position of filter and quantity of oil (although you should have someone with a 2.5 review this and confirm). Also, if you are going to do your own oil changes regularly, you may want to consider replacing your drain plug with a fumoto valve. One less tool required, and no need to stock up on those little washer thingies. QuickOilDrainValve.com - the best way to change oil
+1 on the valve, Works great!
In case it helps, here is a Don't DIY thread: 
http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/89-oil-fuel-discussion/36665-2010-cvt-botched-oil-change.html :1pat:
http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/89-oil-fuel-discussion/36665-2010-cvt-botched-oil-change.html :1pat:
You probably have already done it, but I found this guy's instructions and pics very helpful. 2010 Subaru Outback: First Oil Change Frozenrobot
Subies are easy as **** to change oil/filter. My old 2001 Impreza 2.5RS was even easier than the 2010 2.5i Outback. The only major difference is the location of the filter. The 2010 OB has the filter between the exhaust pipes so it gets pretty hot. So I highly suggest not warming up the car too long or you will burn! Actually don't even warm it up, just move the car from one side of the garage to the other and you should be good.
You don't even need to jack up the OB and it took me about 30mins. I highly suggest buying OEM filters and replacing the crush washer everytime. Oil filter wrench is great to have and highly recommended. Just find the one that fits the subie filter, I found mine at Orielly's.
You don't really need that fumoto valve to be honest. I had it on my old Impreza, but on the OB, the oil pan drain plug is facing pretty much straight down, so draining is not much of a problem. I just bought a set of oem filters with the crush washers included for a really great deal (ebay), and I'm good for at least 10 oils changes. Also, I'm using full synthetic as well so I go about 5-7K miles per oil change.
Good luck!
Subies are easy as **** to change oil/filter. My old 2001 Impreza 2.5RS was even easier than the 2010 2.5i Outback. The only major difference is the location of the filter. The 2010 OB has the filter between the exhaust pipes so it gets pretty hot. So I highly suggest not warming up the car too long or you will burn! Actually don't even warm it up, just move the car from one side of the garage to the other and you should be good.
You don't even need to jack up the OB and it took me about 30mins.
I highly suggest buying OEM filters and replacing the crush washer everytime. Oil filter wrench is great to have and highly recommended. Just find the one that fits the subie filter, I found mine at Orielly's.You don't really need that fumoto valve to be honest. I had it on my old Impreza, but on the OB, the oil pan drain plug is facing pretty much straight down, so draining is not much of a problem. I just bought a set of oem filters with the crush washers included for a really great deal (ebay), and I'm good for at least 10 oils changes. Also, I'm using full synthetic as well so I go about 5-7K miles per oil change.
Good luck!
The OB 2.5 couldn’t get any easier, upright filter and drain bolt both within an arm’s reach.
I wonder about the Fumoto/spigot-type valves.<O</O
Assuming the same condition as with the oem plug/bolt, the male thread protrudes beyond the thickness of the sheet metal (inside the oil pan). It appears the drain hole is at the pan low point, thus removing the bolt completely drains the most oil. Conversely, the spigot captive thread blocks the pan low point (at least equal to the male-thd height) = sludge.<O</O
Also, given the position of the drain hole/plug, I would think that drain valve sticks out (?).
My observation… With the plug out I let it drain for ~hr, and it still drips when I close the drain. I use a PureOne filter which is longer than stock, and fill 4.7qts to exactly the full cold/hole dipstick.<O</O
Anybody measure the Fumoto oil displacement?
I wonder about the Fumoto/spigot-type valves.<O
</OAssuming the same condition as with the oem plug/bolt, the male thread protrudes beyond the thickness of the sheet metal (inside the oil pan). It appears the drain hole is at the pan low point, thus removing the bolt completely drains the most oil. Conversely, the spigot captive thread blocks the pan low point (at least equal to the male-thd height) = sludge.<O
</OAlso, given the position of the drain hole/plug, I would think that drain valve sticks out (?).
My observation… With the plug out I let it drain for ~hr, and it still drips when I close the drain. I use a PureOne filter which is longer than stock, and fill 4.7qts to exactly the full cold/hole dipstick.<O
</OAnybody measure the Fumoto oil displacement?
The fumoto valve threads did stick out beyond the thickness of the oil pan, when I had it on my Impreza RS. I had to cut a slit halfway down the thread just so the oil would properly drain. That is why I just passed on it on the OB.
Also another concern I had with the valve was that it stuck out a bit more than the stock plug, so I worried it would get damaged if it hit something on the road. It saves you a bit of time and cost of the crush washers every oil change, but honestly IMHO you really don't need it.
Also another concern I had with the valve was that it stuck out a bit more than the stock plug, so I worried it would get damaged if it hit something on the road. It saves you a bit of time and cost of the crush washers every oil change, but honestly IMHO you really don't need it.
I’m not sure I can quantify the time/washer-cost saved on the Fumoto.
Time… DIY is to allow more time to drain.
Cost… the oem crush-washers are $0.52 ea, and is easily offset by oil cost (especially by the case). And the Fumoto isn’t free either.
Pssst… even my dealer says (of which he will plausibly deny under oath) you can use the washers 2x.
And I’m not surprised either, my Accord has the same type and I’ve tried/tested it several times – no leaks till the next dump. Albeit pointless given the washer cost.<O</O
Time… DIY is to allow more time to drain.
Cost… the oem crush-washers are $0.52 ea, and is easily offset by oil cost (especially by the case). And the Fumoto isn’t free either.
Pssst… even my dealer says (of which he will plausibly deny under oath) you can use the washers 2x.
And I’m not surprised either, my Accord has the same type and I’ve tried/tested it several times – no leaks till the next dump. Albeit pointless given the washer cost.<O
</O
Pssst… even my dealer says (of which he will plausibly deny under oath) you can use the washers 2x.
And I’m not surprised either, my Accord has the same type and I’ve tried/tested it several times – no leaks till the next dump. Albeit pointless given the washer cost.<O
Serviced a friends car last week and noticed some shops and quick oil change places do use the same crush washer repeatedly. The crush washer was so crushed it looked like it was a part of the bolt. Needed a small flat screwdriver to pry that washer off and replace it. But it didn't leak any oil!! Crush washers are inexpensive but in a pinch I wouldn't hesitate to re-use one x1 as long as it's in good shape and not deformed. Been working with these crush washers since my 1987 Acura
Sorry for the thread necro, but crush washers are easy to reuse multiple times. If you have a blow torch, hit them until they glow bright red, let them cool, reinstall.
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Haha, just don't put 2 crush washers on like my dealership did to my wife's 2012 on her first oil change..... it leaked and leaked until I looked at it and pointed out how stupid they where.
Have used Fumoto valves on my last 3 vehicles with never a problem. Got one in the garage right now waiting to be installed for my first oil change coming up this weekend...:29:
I notched the end of the threads at 4 spots around the Fumoto valve. I confirmed that it was not holding any extra oil by making sure it was fully drained before I installed the valve, then pouring in 4 oz of oil with the valve open. It all came out. I was concerned about the valve getting accidentally opened, so I added the hose clamp. It complicates things a bit, but I will not worry quite so much.
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