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2012 limited, white, no moonroof or nav
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I notched the end of the threads at 4 spots around the Fumoto valve. I confirmed that it was not holding any extra oil by making sure it was fully drained before I installed the valve, then pouring in 4 oz of oil with the valve open. It all came out. I was concerned about the valve getting accidentally opened, so I added the hose clamp. It complicates things a bit, but I will not worry quite so much.
 

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2012 limited, white, no moonroof or nav
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I can't justify using a fumoto valve, as it is REALLY easy to remove the plug and stay clean, crush washers are cheap, and I would end up using a clamp to make sure it didn't pop open, thus negating any time savings.
I would agree, except that my past experience with Japanese vehicles is that the threads in the oil pan tend to wear out, eventually. I keep my vehicles a looonnggg time, and it is just a waste to have to change the oil pan for soft drain plug threads.

I have been using valves to drain the oil for the past decade or so to avoid this issue. It is a very good reason to replace the gasket everytime, if you do not use the valve. YMMV.
 

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I have yet to find a cap wrench (locally) that fits a Subaru filter properly. I have one that is a hair too big and one that is a hair to small. Neither fit perfect.

I have a heavy duty strap style wrench, that essentially just crushes the filter until it pops loose. I've only used it once when I first changed the oil. Since then I don't have any trouble removing the filter by hand, I don't tend to go the full 7/8 turn, probably closer to 1/2 turn. The same thing I've been doing since I started changing oil. Never had a problem or a leak. Just be sure to lubricate the o-ring first.
I glued sandpaper into the cap wrench that was a hair small, and let it dry while sitting on a filter. Fits perfectly, and grips better than the wrench itself.
 

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2012 limited, white, no moonroof or nav
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Depends too how tight/loose the difference between cap-wrench/filter. A latex glove between cap/filter works too. The only problem for me was the first time (indicative of installed dry at the factory), before I got too far and got stuck in my garage I brought it to the dealer. No problems on succeeding dumps, with just the bare cap/filter.<O:p</O:p
Yes, most importantly lube the o-ring. Hand tight the filter on, wrench 1/4 turn for extra security.<O:p</O:p
To remove… after breaking loose > remove cap wrench > grab the filter with a cold cup (pre-2013) and hand remove, no drips.<O:p</O:p
The drain plug on mine was what was installed by Man Mountain Mike. Must have had 80lbs of torque on it. I was careful getting it out......I thought it was going to need a new pan, on the first oil change. Fumoto should keep that from being a future issue.

By the way, if you use silicone grease on the seal, you can tighten the filter as much as you want. (I know.......People worry about it eating the Cat, but it really has no chance to escape.......You just use the lightest smear on the gasket). Oil attacks the seal, and makes it swell, so the filter gets tighter while installed. With the silicone, whatever torque you put on it to install will be what is on it when you go to remove it. I usually tighten it a full turn. Comes off with very little effort.
 

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Who uses a wrench to install an oil filter? Hand tighten only. Every oil filter installation instruction I have ever seen, says to hand tighten only. Been doing it that way for 40 years, and have never had a leak at the oil filter.
On aircraft, you tighten them to 18flbs, plus safety wire. That is where the silicone grease tip came from. If you tighten one to 18flbs, with motor oil on the seal, you will need explosives to remove the d#mn thing.

Also, there are a few vehicles out there where is almost impossible to get your hand on the filter to tighten it. Just sayin'.
 
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