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2011 Outback 3.6 Premium
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I drive the car up on leveling ramps for the oil change. The ramps are usually used by RV owners to level their units at a campsite. They are available at RV supply shops. The ramps are very quick & easy to use; much easier than car ramps. The leveling ramps give me about 4" of additional clearance.
 

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'11 Outback 2.5i CVT - '06 Forester X 5MT
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The only thing I'll add is if it's your first oil change, be sure to have a good filter wrench handy. The first time I changed the oil I only had a cap wrench that didn't fit perfect, so I had to run to the store and get a strap style filter wrench, and then I ended up crushing the filter before it came loose.

Since then I've installed the filter to the proper tightness and have been able to remove with with my hand. I did start wearing mechanics gloves for the filter though. Even after a 30 min cool down, it's still HOT.

A tip I got online (here I think) was to use a plastic cup (solo cup) once you loosen the oil filter to remove it, the oil drains into the cup and stays off your hands.

Honestly though, my past 3 Subarus have all been a breeze to change the oil. The LGT had that stupid plastic cover on the bottom that added a little time, but otherwise they are easy.

I can't justify using a fumoto valve, as it is REALLY easy to remove the plug and stay clean, crush washers are cheap, and I would end up using a clamp to make sure it didn't pop open, thus negating any time savings.

The OB is high enough I don't need to use ramps, I just crawl underneath.
 

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2012 limited, white, no moonroof or nav
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I can't justify using a fumoto valve, as it is REALLY easy to remove the plug and stay clean, crush washers are cheap, and I would end up using a clamp to make sure it didn't pop open, thus negating any time savings.
I would agree, except that my past experience with Japanese vehicles is that the threads in the oil pan tend to wear out, eventually. I keep my vehicles a looonnggg time, and it is just a waste to have to change the oil pan for soft drain plug threads.

I have been using valves to drain the oil for the past decade or so to avoid this issue. It is a very good reason to replace the gasket everytime, if you do not use the valve. YMMV.
 

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2022 Subaru Outback Limited in Crimson Red Pearl
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The DIY oil change procedure is not unique nor special. The filter is surrounded by the exhaust system and needs a cap-type oil filter wrench, 4.2qt and preferably the oem oil filter.
I added 4.0qt last weekend. The Outback is on ramp and I did not change filtered because the dealer forgot to use synthetic oil in my vehicle (I use Mobil 1 5w30 since the first oil change).
 

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2022 Subaru Outback Limited in Crimson Red Pearl
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The fumoto valve threads did stick out beyond the thickness of the oil pan, when I had it on my Impreza RS. I had to cut a slit halfway down the thread just so the oil would properly drain. That is why I just passed on it on the OB.
Also another concern I had with the valve was that it stuck out a bit more than the stock plug, so I worried it would get damaged if it hit something on the road. It saves you a bit of time and cost of the crush washers every oil change, but honestly IMHO you really don't need it.
The front sway bar will get hit first if something that tall can hit your car on the road. This is first time for me to use Fumoto, so I put the clamp on just for a peace of mind! Buy the F-108s, it is the newest one with shorter valve.
 

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'11 Outback 2.5i CVT - '06 Forester X 5MT
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anyone else have problems with getting the filter off with the cap type wrench? I have found it to be a PITA if I tighten the filter to the factory directions of 7/8 of a turn.
I have yet to find a cap wrench (locally) that fits a Subaru filter properly. I have one that is a hair too big and one that is a hair to small. Neither fit perfect.

I have a heavy duty strap style wrench, that essentially just crushes the filter until it pops loose. I've only used it once when I first changed the oil. Since then I don't have any trouble removing the filter by hand, I don't tend to go the full 7/8 turn, probably closer to 1/2 turn. The same thing I've been doing since I started changing oil. Never had a problem or a leak. Just be sure to lubricate the o-ring first.
 

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2013 Outback Limited 2.5i, 2011 WRX Limited
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anyone else have problems with getting the filter off with the cap type wrench? I have found it to be a PITA if I tighten the filter to the factory directions of 7/8 of a turn.
I use a steel cap wrench (plastic ones always slip for me), then lightly tap it first onto the filter with a mallet. Then, I attach the socket wrench and break it loose. Next, I pry the cap wrench off using the leverage of the socket wrench and loosen the rest by hand. Hope this helps!
 

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2012 limited, white, no moonroof or nav
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I have yet to find a cap wrench (locally) that fits a Subaru filter properly. I have one that is a hair too big and one that is a hair to small. Neither fit perfect.

I have a heavy duty strap style wrench, that essentially just crushes the filter until it pops loose. I've only used it once when I first changed the oil. Since then I don't have any trouble removing the filter by hand, I don't tend to go the full 7/8 turn, probably closer to 1/2 turn. The same thing I've been doing since I started changing oil. Never had a problem or a leak. Just be sure to lubricate the o-ring first.
I glued sandpaper into the cap wrench that was a hair small, and let it dry while sitting on a filter. Fits perfectly, and grips better than the wrench itself.
 

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'11 Outback 2.5i CVT - '06 Forester X 5MT
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I glued sandpaper into the cap wrench that was a hair small, and let it dry while sitting on a filter. Fits perfectly, and grips better than the wrench itself.
Brilliant idea!

I tried wedging cardboard and shims in and it just keeps slipping. At one point I wrapped duck tape around the filter a couple times and that seemed to work. But the first time I changed the oil on the OB I had no luck. I finally broke down and bought a strap style wrench. I actually had to crush the filter before it broke loose (not sure what Subaru was thinking when they assembled it).

I may try your sandpaper trick though, as there have been a couple times that a wrench and an extension would have been easier than using my hand. The strap wrench is a last ditch, fail safe. It's a pain to use in the OB, but it works if all else fails.
 

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2011 OB 2.5i Prem CVT HK/AWP, Ruby Red Pearl
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Depends too how tight/loose the difference between cap-wrench/filter. A latex glove between cap/filter works too. The only problem for me was the first time (indicative of installed dry at the factory), before I got too far and got stuck in my garage I brought it to the dealer. No problems on succeeding dumps, with just the bare cap/filter.<O:p</O:p
Yes, most importantly lube the o-ring. Hand tight the filter on, wrench 1/4 turn for extra security.<O:p</O:p
To remove… after breaking loose > remove cap wrench > grab the filter with a cold cup (pre-2013) and hand remove, no drips.<O:p</O:p
 

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2012 limited, white, no moonroof or nav
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Depends too how tight/loose the difference between cap-wrench/filter. A latex glove between cap/filter works too. The only problem for me was the first time (indicative of installed dry at the factory), before I got too far and got stuck in my garage I brought it to the dealer. No problems on succeeding dumps, with just the bare cap/filter.<O:p</O:p
Yes, most importantly lube the o-ring. Hand tight the filter on, wrench 1/4 turn for extra security.<O:p</O:p
To remove… after breaking loose > remove cap wrench > grab the filter with a cold cup (pre-2013) and hand remove, no drips.<O:p</O:p
The drain plug on mine was what was installed by Man Mountain Mike. Must have had 80lbs of torque on it. I was careful getting it out......I thought it was going to need a new pan, on the first oil change. Fumoto should keep that from being a future issue.

By the way, if you use silicone grease on the seal, you can tighten the filter as much as you want. (I know.......People worry about it eating the Cat, but it really has no chance to escape.......You just use the lightest smear on the gasket). Oil attacks the seal, and makes it swell, so the filter gets tighter while installed. With the silicone, whatever torque you put on it to install will be what is on it when you go to remove it. I usually tighten it a full turn. Comes off with very little effort.
 

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2011 2.5i CVT PZEV Dark Blue
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Brilliant idea!

I tried wedging cardboard and shims in and it just keeps slipping. At one point I wrapped duck tape around the filter a couple times and that seemed to work. But the first time I changed the oil on the OB I had no luck. I finally broke down and bought a strap style wrench. I actually had to crush the filter before it broke loose (not sure what Subaru was thinking when they assembled it).

I may try your sandpaper trick though, as there have been a couple times that a wrench and an extension would have been easier than using my hand. The strap wrench is a last ditch, fail safe. It's a pain to use in the OB, but it works if all else fails.
no problems here with this filter wrench
Lisle Corporation

 

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2013 Outback, 2.5i Limited w/ Moonroof
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But I wouldn't use it to reinstall. Just sayin'.
Who uses a wrench to install an oil filter? Hand tighten only. Every oil filter installation instruction I have ever seen, says to hand tighten only. Been doing it that way for 40 years, and have never had a leak at the oil filter.
 

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2012 limited, white, no moonroof or nav
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Who uses a wrench to install an oil filter? Hand tighten only. Every oil filter installation instruction I have ever seen, says to hand tighten only. Been doing it that way for 40 years, and have never had a leak at the oil filter.
On aircraft, you tighten them to 18flbs, plus safety wire. That is where the silicone grease tip came from. If you tighten one to 18flbs, with motor oil on the seal, you will need explosives to remove the d#mn thing.

Also, there are a few vehicles out there where is almost impossible to get your hand on the filter to tighten it. Just sayin'.
 
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