This is likely something you can do yourself if you have worked on engines before. Be very careful of the Haines book. Some of their instructions are just plain WRONG. I assume your 2001 is a non-turbo SOHC. If that is the case, you do not remove the camshafts to get the head off. The bolts are readily accessible. Forget about that TDC instruction. If you set the #1 piston to TDC, you could bend a couple of valves. You will be setting the crankshaft mark to the vertical position and aligning both cam marks as if you were setting it up for a timing belt replacement job. That sets all 4 pistons half way down in the cylinders. At that location, with the timing belt off, you can safely move the camshaft sprockets without fear of piston/valve collision.
The big problem with this job is the tight clearances. You can remove the nuts for the engine mounts and remove the dog bone mount under the airbox (top center at firewall area), and with a block of wood protecting your oil pan, raise the engine and move it left or right about 1-2 inches. That gets you some badly needed clearance to R&R the heads. The head bolts will have to stay in the head as you remove it since there is not enough clearance to get all of them to fully slide out. The same goes for re-installing them and you may need a 2nd person to help lift and guid the head back up into place. Doing it by yourself may cause you to scrape the heagasket with a bolt. It is not real straightforward. Spend a lot of time cleaning up the block and head mating surfaces using a very fine wire wheel and 400 grit paper. It might be worth having a machine shop check the heads and smoothing the surface.
It is also not necessary to completely remove the intake manifold. Once the intake manifold bolts are off, each side can be lifted high enough, either by a helper or a couple of heavy black rubber bungy cords. There are locating pins on the head that stick up (to locate the intake manifold gaskets), so you must lift to clear those when re-installing the heads.
Be sure to have a 14 mm 12 point 1/2" socket with 1/2" breaker bar for removal, and a 3/8" 14 mm 12 point socket along with various adapters and a torque wrench. The Haines loosening/tightning sequence is correct, but if you are doing valve lash adjustment, Haines is wrong (use your underhood label).
I just completed one on a 2001 that required a lot more work (i.e. bent valves), so if I am online, I'll try to answer your question. There are also many other knowledgeable folks here to give you good advice.
