[jbwood5]

Arron,
When I did this on the 2001 with the intake manifold left on (but lifted slightly), I removed and replaced the heads from under the car, so the intake manifold was not an issue. We had rubber bands stretched between each adjacent bolt (horizontally) to keep the bolts from sliding while manuevering the head in-place. The bands were right under the top of the bolt and allowed us to move them a bit, but they would not slide around or slide out of the head as we moved the head into position.

For your torque wrench: Use a 3/8" click type torque wrench. Get a 3/8" to 1/2" socket adapter, and use a 1/2" socket. I found that combination gets the wrench out far enough from the rockers but gives you clearance inside the body side rails. It should work perfect. After you complete all the steps but the final 2, get a sharpie and draw a vertical line on each head bolt. Then complete the 80 to 90 degree turn. Rub off the mark and remark a new vertical stripe. Then do your final 80 to 90 degree turn. For the last 2 steps, just use a breaker bar. If you have cleaned the mating surfaces well and have the head surfaced (my shop just polished them up to a mirror finish), you should have no problems with your HG from here on out.

 

[ralphandwilliesdad]

Sweet! Just got the heads looked at and they are perfect. Tonight I need to work on getting everything cleaned up nice and neat. I'll need to clean up underneath where the leak was (about a half inch of just crud), then of course the gasket interfaces, and maybe the pistons too. Probably run a cloth through my intake manifold pipes as well. Then I'll use jbwoods advice on torquing the bolts. The mechanic who checked the heads said it isn't as hard as getting the bolts out but cautioned that I make absolutely sure that I do it just the right way.

I am a little concerned about this. So if I torque the corners to 51 (I think), then it says to turn the bolts another 90 degrees, aren't I increasing the torque substantially? I don't get it. Why not just give me the right torque to set it at instead of giving me a "torque +90 degrees"?

 

[jbwood5]

I can't answer the theory behind the torque sequence, but I'm sure that a lot of study and experience went into the technique. The thing that will really suprise you is that when you back the bolts out after torquing them, they are practically only finger tight. I thought that was weird, but I guess the first 2 steps "crush" or "set" the gasket to match any very slight imperfections. Definitely follow all the steps and be patient. The Haynes book is correct for this procedure. Be sure to lightly oil the headbolt threads and the washers before putting them in the heads.

 

[el payaso]

<<It is also not necessary to completely remove the intake manifold. Once the intake manifold bolts are off, each side can be lifted high enough, either by a helper or a couple of heavy black rubber bungy cords. There are locating pins on the head that stick up (to locate the intake manifold gaskets), so you must lift to clear those when re-installing the heads.>>

JB, i cannot thank you enough for this bit of info. it literally cut out over 70% of the work in removing the right head. unbolted the manifolds and dropped it right out. and the intake manifold gaskets drop right out on both sides (even the left side, where we left the head in place) and at least in my car, don't look like they left any crap bonded to the head or manifold.

one thing i was surprised by was how much torque the head bolts took to remove.....i was straining really hard with a 1/2" breaker bar. never run into head bolts that were this tight on any other vehicle. and i think for the reinstall, i'll buy the special head bolt socket.....a 12 point 14mm fits and works, but doesn't fit well and chews up the bolt heads.

 

[jbwood5]

Glad it helped, but remember the manifold will need to be lifted about 3/8" so that the pins for the intake manifold on the head (gasket locating pins) clear the intake manifold flange.
I never knew there was a special socket for the HG's. I used a Craftsman-Sears 1/2 inch.

What you will find out is that on the final 80-90 degree turn for the last step in the torquing sequence is that these bolts are not really that tight. I guess the removal is so tight because of the thousands of heat up and cool down cycles that tend to bond the threads in the block. Thank God you did not snap a headbolt!!

 

[el payaso]

i was more worried about rounding off the heads....ASA you apply serious torque, the socket wants to try to ride up the bolt head even if you're pressing it in place. i think you're right on the cause of the stickiness....it "felt" like similar "dissimilar-metal-and-not-previously-disassembled" situ.s i've hit before.

i wasn't aware of a special socket either but think there must be one. if i can't find one, will go buy some better quality 12-points....was using Ace Hdwe set, pretty similar to Crapsman quality. in past cases of difficult fasteners, using Snap-On or Matco etc grade tools makes a difference in being able to get stuff loose without rounding off or chewin up bolt and screw heads. i ordered a new set of head bolts to be on the safe side.

i've definitely learned something here. never would have thought you could bend valves turning it over on the wrench, but i measured the stems on the intakes at about 5.5mm diameter....great for reducing recip weight and consequently for revvability, but the tradeoff is comparative fragility.

JB, just spoke with the Allwheeldrive guys and they confirmed that there's no special socket, so i guess i do need to just get the better set of 12 points.

 

[ralphandwilliesdad]

Anyone able to clarify the bolt number locations? Haynes shows something I don't recognize. Standing at my tire looking at the bolts does it go 1 north, 2 south, 3 northwest, 4 southeast, 5 northeast, 6 southwest? Just double checking, hoping to get the darn things on tomorrow.

 

[canubaru]

yes, start at the top middle and then go bottom middle.

the next bolt isn't critical left or right, as long as it is a top corner.
then diagonal corner.

then back to the top same end, then the last , diagonal corner.

 

[ralphandwilliesdad]

Got the heads back on (finally. . .I've been doing this while juggling a job and a kid). Tightened the bolts as directed and put the valve covers back on. It looks like the gasket is peeking through the head/block seam on top and below. I remember I could see the oem gasket at the top when I started, but not on the bottom. I used the FeldPro replacement gasket and its a little different, so I guess some variation should be expected. Does anyone view this as a glaring red flag, or has anyone oberved the same thing? I know I put them on right and I tightened the bolts perfectly. If that is okay, I'm going to get moving on putting the rest of the engine back together.

 

[jbwood5]

I can't see that making any difference providing the gasket stayed in the dowel pins as the heads were put on. I assume both left and right look like this. I don't think there is any way to get these reversed and I would have to assume that you looked at all the passageways to check that the gasket wasn't blocking any of the openings for coolant and oil.

After your belt is on and properly lined up and double checked via rotation, pull the fuel pump fuse and leave the spark plugs out. Make sure the oil level is up to par and crank the engine a few times to get the oil circulating.

 

[ralphandwilliesdad]

Should I replace the injector o-rings? I heard I should, but they look okay and they appear to require special ordering?

 

[Timberwolf99]

Do you mean spark plug tube seals, if so and you have been finding oil on your leads and plugs then you should.

 

[ralphandwilliesdad]

No. I meant injector o-rings. Since the injectors were removed when I removed the fuel rail and the intake manifold, I wonder if it's necessary to replace and reseat the injector o-rings since the pressure on the injectors was removed. They look okay. . .I was told I should replace them though or I risk an engine fire. Just double checking. . .apparently obtaining 01 subaru injector o-rings takes a special order. I won't do it if I don't have to.

 

[porcupine73]

I wanted new injector o-rings too, and they had to be ordered in. I will say this, I will never use any other o-ring on injectors though. I had the injectors cleaned/serviced, and they sent back new o-rings to use. They looked the same to me as the genuine o-rings. I don't know why, but I used the genuine o-rings on two injectors, and the other o-rings on two injectors. The two I used the 'other' o-rings had vacuum leaks.

 

[ralphandwilliesdad]

I was surprised that I had to special order no matter which part store I talked to. Truthfully, the o-rings looked okay, no cracks or anything, and I haven't had any problems to date. It's just that when I removed the injectors I removed the pressure on the rings and I adjusted the seating, so I get a little nervous on the replacement. I guess I'll know I screwed up when my engine catches on fire.

 

[porcupine73]

Haha, yes fire is usually a good clue that something went wrong!

The injector o-rings really just seal against the vacuum leak around the injector (at least on non turbos). I knew something was wrong with mine when I started it and I could hear a really strange sucking sound coming from somewhere. I pinpointed it with a stethescope to the injectors where I used non genuine o-rings. I really did not feel like having to take them out again, so I cleaned around them and smeared permatex ultragrey. That worked great, no more vacuum leak and it has been like that for probably 5 years now.

 

[ralphandwilliesdad]

Boy the timing belt is kicking my butt! I just can't figure out how to wrap that thing back around the cranks and pulleys. I'm trying to follow the Haynes manual instructions which instruct me to reinstall a reset tensioner, reinstall timing sprocket #2, then reinstall the timing belt. Except it just doesn't fit. I've seen some of the othe posts about locking down the right cam and guiding the belt on to the crank and the left cam using a socket wrench to turn the left cam by tightening the top and leaving the bottom loose to thread the idler sprocket 2 and idler pulley 1. Hopefully that will work. I'll give it a shot tonight. I don't know how I'm going to get the lining all matched up. I also thought about trying to get the crank and the left cam lined up (with the sprocket 2 and tensioner installed) then trying to "guide" or "thread" the belt onto the right cam by turning the crankshaft. That makes me a little nervous though.

A question. . .presumably I get the timing belt lined back up within a tick. Then I turn the crank 2, 4, 6 times. I presume the belt marks will end up slightly off the more I turn the crank, correct? I know the SPROCKET marks need to line up consistently, but does the belt? I'm assuming my belt marks are a guide to help me line things up the first time, but they won't line up forever.

 

[starkline]

****, this thread is going to help me huge when it comes time for my engine to receive the same. I'm hoping it won't be for some years, but one never knows.

 

[lostin90s]

Great write ups. From looks I will be doing soon . I check on having it done . yah right $$.

 

[srpuywa]

I wish I had the time and inclination to do this. However since it's been a few years since I've seriously wrenched on any cars I had a shop replace the TB and a lot of other stuff. Interesting how they decided to remove the engine from the car (a common practice it seems)

Good luck