Sprocket marks need to line up each revolution of the crank. The timing belt marks will not line up every revolution. Basically when I do the belt, I put everything back on, then the toothed sprocket by the water pump, then the top idler near the oil pump, then lastly the bottom smooth idler. Just push with the palm on the idler while using a socket to start the bolt by fingers so you can feel if it is started correctly. Put some bubble wrap or something under the car so if the idler gets away it doesn't get a burr on it.
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yay, congrats you'll be fine
Congrats on your HG replacement job. For having no prior experience, you did well.
OK, i done made another mistake i should know better than. i noticed the blue paint on one end of valve springs when i was pulling em out but didn't think anything of it, just assumed that was the mfgr's color coding for spring static length or tension.
now i go to reinstall and notice that these are variable rate springs, where one end has much tighter coils than the other, presumably to avoid valve float at high rpm's. except Stupid here didn't note which end was up when they came out. can anyone help me out here? do the closer-spaced coils go towards the head or towards the retainer? Haynes is of course no help here....manual doesn't even discuss removal/installation of the valves.
thanks.....................
now i go to reinstall and notice that these are variable rate springs, where one end has much tighter coils than the other, presumably to avoid valve float at high rpm's. except Stupid here didn't note which end was up when they came out. can anyone help me out here? do the closer-spaced coils go towards the head or towards the retainer? Haynes is of course no help here....manual doesn't even discuss removal/installation of the valves.
thanks.....................
In the FSM (MSA5TCD00L16123.pdf), it says; "CAUTION: Be sure to install the valve springs with their close-coiled end facing the seat on the cylinder head."OK, i done made another mistake i should know better than. i noticed the blue paint on one end of valve springs when i was pulling em out but didn't think anything of it, just assumed that was the mfgr's color coding for spring static length or tension.
now i go to reinstall and notice that these are variable rate springs, where one end has much tighter coils than the other, presumably to avoid valve float at high rpm's. except Stupid here didn't note which end was up when they came out. can anyone help me out here? do the closer-spaced coils go towards the head or towards the retainer? Haynes is of course no help here....manual doesn't even discuss removal/installation of the valves.
thanks.....................
That's for the 2000 Legacys. But don't sue me if it's not correct. I haven't done this myself, so you might want to wait for someone else to chime in.
Sorry to ressurect an old thread, but the HG issues continue.
I just finished the HG and timing belt on our 2006 2.5I MT and thought I could add some things I discovered that could be helpful.
You do not have to evacuate the a/c or p/s systems. They will fit in the wheel wells and you can hold the a/c pump with bungies. If you move the p/s pump I think it is almost mandatory to pick up a new p/s return line o-ring where the plastic fitting goes into the pump. If not you will foam the fluid and have to wait till the o-ring is replaced to run the motor enough to see if you did a decent rebuild.
You can remove the engine without removing the manifolds before removal.
You can remove the intake manifold without removing the injectors or other components. This really saves time on the reassembly. There are about 10 connectors which need to come off, a coolant pipe and a fuel line.
The crank pulley is located with a key way and is not a taper fit. If it is stiff, some penetrating lubricant and wiggling will get it off. It takes some persuasion though.
Do not re-use your old head bolts. Our's had stretched about 1/8 of an inch longer then the replacements.
Here is a great video on refinishing the head and block surface for re install. Subaru has a TSB about this as well, but the recommend the wizz wheel. As the video shows, this might not be a good idea. I wet sanded the surfaces and obtained a very good result. The grits recommended are 220, 400 and 600 wet or dry.
Prepping your head for new gaskets video: Subaru Head Gasket Repair :
I used the 6 star gaskets. I bought a complete kit with all seals, incl the oil tube seals.
Overall the job took about 10 hours total. 3 hours to remove the enging, 4 to r/r the heads and timing belt and 3 to install.
Here are some pics to help out.
The show the main electriccal disconnect, the engine out of the vehicle, high powered 1/2 hp replacement motor (Joke) and the power steering returne line.
I just finished the HG and timing belt on our 2006 2.5I MT and thought I could add some things I discovered that could be helpful.
You do not have to evacuate the a/c or p/s systems. They will fit in the wheel wells and you can hold the a/c pump with bungies. If you move the p/s pump I think it is almost mandatory to pick up a new p/s return line o-ring where the plastic fitting goes into the pump. If not you will foam the fluid and have to wait till the o-ring is replaced to run the motor enough to see if you did a decent rebuild.
You can remove the engine without removing the manifolds before removal.
You can remove the intake manifold without removing the injectors or other components. This really saves time on the reassembly. There are about 10 connectors which need to come off, a coolant pipe and a fuel line.
The crank pulley is located with a key way and is not a taper fit. If it is stiff, some penetrating lubricant and wiggling will get it off. It takes some persuasion though.
Do not re-use your old head bolts. Our's had stretched about 1/8 of an inch longer then the replacements.
Here is a great video on refinishing the head and block surface for re install. Subaru has a TSB about this as well, but the recommend the wizz wheel. As the video shows, this might not be a good idea. I wet sanded the surfaces and obtained a very good result. The grits recommended are 220, 400 and 600 wet or dry.
Prepping your head for new gaskets video: Subaru Head Gasket Repair :
I used the 6 star gaskets. I bought a complete kit with all seals, incl the oil tube seals.
Overall the job took about 10 hours total. 3 hours to remove the enging, 4 to r/r the heads and timing belt and 3 to install.
Here are some pics to help out.
The show the main electriccal disconnect, the engine out of the vehicle, high powered 1/2 hp replacement motor (Joke) and the power steering returne line.
Attachments
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2002 Outback 2.5 MT5 172k
My head gasket blew back in June sometime with an internal leak causing overflow to bubble and fill all the way up with coolant and I can now see oil residue on drivers side headgasket seam and I am finally getting around to it after parking it and working on suspension on and off this summer. I am going to go for the remove from underneath method. So far I have the timing belt stuff all off, waterpump off, valve covers off, intake manifold bolts loose with the manifold moving freely up and down on the drivers side but it only goes up a little on the passengers side so I need to look into that. Not sure how much room I need.
I need to remove the motor mount bolt up top and bolts down below as per instructions. Also need to remove exhaust manifold bolts...they look very rusted so I am worried. The exhaust hanger I haven't even looked at but I am sure I will break it if I try to loosen it so that is part of the plan.
I can't get a socket around the front spark plug on the drivers side. I think a piece of rubber from my old spark plug wire is stuck down there from a wire and plug swap last March during a road trip - on the side of the road. My plan is to remove head and then try to fish it out of there. What a son of a bitch.
I did the timing belt at 100k on this car but didn't replace the pulleys then so this time I bought the complete gates timing belt kit with new pulleys and tensioners, subaru water pump, thermostat, subaru gaskets, the Genuine Subaru 11044AA642 GASKET CYLINDER HEAD for turbocharged models in order to get MLS- I hope these will work, subaru intake and exhaust manifolds, subaru valve cover manifold gaskets and new washer gaskets for holding bolts and spark plug tube gaskets...among other things.
Here is a couple pictures from the end of my first day of wrenching:
![]()
https://www.flickr.com/photos/uglymoney/15506096328/sizes/h/
![]()
https://www.flickr.com/photos/uglymoney/15505619169/sizes/h/
My head gasket blew back in June sometime with an internal leak causing overflow to bubble and fill all the way up with coolant and I can now see oil residue on drivers side headgasket seam and I am finally getting around to it after parking it and working on suspension on and off this summer. I am going to go for the remove from underneath method. So far I have the timing belt stuff all off, waterpump off, valve covers off, intake manifold bolts loose with the manifold moving freely up and down on the drivers side but it only goes up a little on the passengers side so I need to look into that. Not sure how much room I need.
I need to remove the motor mount bolt up top and bolts down below as per instructions. Also need to remove exhaust manifold bolts...they look very rusted so I am worried. The exhaust hanger I haven't even looked at but I am sure I will break it if I try to loosen it so that is part of the plan.
I can't get a socket around the front spark plug on the drivers side. I think a piece of rubber from my old spark plug wire is stuck down there from a wire and plug swap last March during a road trip - on the side of the road. My plan is to remove head and then try to fish it out of there. What a son of a bitch.
I did the timing belt at 100k on this car but didn't replace the pulleys then so this time I bought the complete gates timing belt kit with new pulleys and tensioners, subaru water pump, thermostat, subaru gaskets, the Genuine Subaru 11044AA642 GASKET CYLINDER HEAD for turbocharged models in order to get MLS- I hope these will work, subaru intake and exhaust manifolds, subaru valve cover manifold gaskets and new washer gaskets for holding bolts and spark plug tube gaskets...among other things.
Here is a couple pictures from the end of my first day of wrenching:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/uglymoney/15506096328/sizes/h/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/uglymoney/15505619169/sizes/h/
41 - 60 of 117 Posts
