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DIY 2001 Subaru Cylinder Head Gasket Replacement

143929 Views 116 Replies 27 Participants Last post by  greengoblin68, 
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Hi everyone,
Yes, I'm new to posting on this forum, but trust me, I have poured over the threads and used this site on several occasions to fix my 2001 Subaru Outback, standard transmission, 2.5L SOHC 4 cylinder engine. Finally, at over 160K, my subie has developed the famous external head gasket leak. Yes, drivers side, rear. I have oil weeping from the seam, coolant in the back. Yes, I have strange odor. The coolant in my reservoir is still green but seems to be leaking more than the oil in my engine (which is not milky). I know what I need to do, the question is whether or not I can do it myself. I'm strongly inclined to try, but this would be the biggest automotive repair project I've ever tried. I've been studying these forums and reading and rereading my Haynes guide. My Haynes is going to be the step-by-step for my actions, specifically Chapter 2, Section 12 (Cylinder heads - removal and installation). Most of the instructions on this refer you to other manual sections, which I've spent the last two weekends just reading, looking and planning, and I think now is a good time to ask a couple of questions.

1) TDC vs. camshaft sprockets. Haynes instructs me to find Top Dead Center of the #1 cylinder by adjusting the camshaft pulley with a breaker bar while a compression gauge is in the sparkplug hole. I have a pretty good idea where this is already (the marks are still on the pulley from an earlier timing belt change), but I will run through the procedure anyways. I'm not really sure what to look for on the compression gauge though. Are there any play-by-plays out there for what to do exactly? Next I take off my drivebelts, then after a few other removals, Haynes recommends using a chain wrench to hold the pulley while loosening the crankshaft pulley bolt. I'm not sure about using a chain wrench here. Does anyone have any comments or alternatives? I feel like I'm going to have to wrench the heck out of the crankshaft pulley bolt. Correct me if I'm wrong, but if I get even ONE tick off of TDC I'm screwed here correct? Last question on this point, and I feel like I have a big knowledge gap here, but after removing the pulley and the covers and the timing belt guide, the next step is to "Turn the crankshaft and align the marks on the crankshaft sprocket, the left camshaft sprocket and the right camshaft sprocket with etc., " Won't this throw off my TDC? I'm hugely concerned about this, if you respond to nothing else, please advise on this.

2) Camshaft removal - after removing sprockets, valve covers, CMP, rocker arm assembly, tb tensioner/bracket, and dipstick Haynes says to remove the "camshaft end cap assembly" then "remove the camshaft carefully from the cylinder head so that the lobes do not nick the journal bores. Remove the camshaft oil seal and the end plug from the camshaft end cap assembly." Is this it? There are no diagrams, no photos. I'm just really vague on what to expect when I get in there, what it will look like.

3) Unforeseen difficulties - I'm planning on being methodical. In fact, I will be photographing EVERYTHING, labeling EVERYTHING with tags and I writing EVERYTHING down. When I'm done, it will be posted. Promise. I'm planning on having to buy some tools. Of course I'll need a torque wrench, spark plug remover, compressor gauge, chain wrench, and pin wrench. I have a wrench set, socket set, hammer (just kidding). I also plan on replacing the left/right valve cover gaskets, spark plugs and, of course, cylinder gaskets. I guess I'll need new cam seals too. I have some money for unforeseen expenses, I have a little time, a place to work. Is there anything else that I'll need that you can think of? Has anyone who has followed the Haynes (or Chilton. . .it's about the same) done this before and found out that something just wasn't covered properly? I want to get everything I need, then do this all at once. I want to keep this car running a while longer, I also want to learn about what is under my hood. Thanks for all your help.
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U
Dropping out the bottom with motor in the car per these instructions on page two.

http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums...der-head-gasket-replacement-2.html#post389816

I bought new cam seals but I am a bit put off by spending $65 for a cam holder tool from Amazon:
. My machine shop probably doesn't see a ton of Subaru's - not sure...but can most machine shops do this for me with a generic tool they probably have or should I just order the tool? Anybody use a makeshift tool?

My cam seals aren't leaking. The car will rust out in probably four more years either way. Just wondering out loud if it is worth worrying about?

Exhaust manifold nuts and in 4 of 5 cases the studs dropped right out of heads. Exhaust hanger bolt back by transmission snapped in two as predicted for a rust belt car. Easy fix. Exhaust is loosey goosey!

Engine mount nuts came off easily. Upper dog bone nut and bolt loosened super easily. Jack under motor and I have good movement.

Passengers side headbolts all broken loose and spun most of the way out. Not that easy but a big 1/2 inch breaker bar with a brand new Sunex 14 mm bolt worked great. It helps to have a few wrench combinations around for turning them out of there because clearance seems to vary wildly depending on the bolt.
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U
Okay I just went back over the directions. Do I need to remove the cam sprockets to get these heads out of the car? I missed that part I guess. Anyone?
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eagleeye
Don't know,

but if you wanted to see a start to finish recent head gasket job in pretty good pics.

kitesurfer805 did it on a JDM imported engine, including the sanding.

http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/110-gen-2-2000-2004/165417-jdm-engine-swap.html
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I
No.

cam sprockets do not have to come off, leave them on the heads if you want and remove them later

i've never used a special tool for cam sprockets. impact gun or strap wrenches or build soemthing to hold it.

cam seals...well replacing those is considerably easier than a head job so even if you do them later they'd be easy for you. they are very robust, much more so than older generation seals. that said i generally do them while i'm in there - for $8 it's nice to be done sometimes. either way has pluses and minuses.
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eagleeye
Uglymoney, From reading enough of these type of threads:

with internal coolant leaks and external oil leaks on a 2002 Outback 2.5 MT5 172,000 miles.

I would think both the block and the heads should go to a machine shop to be ground / trued up, or its going to leak again.

I can understand how you may not have access to a engine crane or even a steel milk crate to put the block on though. (hence why you are doing it in the car).

Hope it works out for you, and this is not a big waste to time and money.
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U
Interesting. Thanks guys. Honestly I had new head gaskets put on under warranty at 20k or so and they lasted almost 150k which seems like nearly a world record so I wasn't that worried that this is a waste of time but maybe I should be. The bubbling was very minor and the seam leak isn't nearly as bad as the one I had at 20k.

Thanks for cam sprocket info. I will change those seals for sure.
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I
resurface the heads
install the turbo headgaskets or Six Star

good to go.

Subaru repaired it but they make two big mistakes:
1. they use the same problematic headgasket that comes from the factory
2. they don't resurface the heads.

*"This headgasket is failing in other vehicles from the OEM assembled factory - let's use it to repair leaking headgaskets". Help me find another word other than STUPID for that?

Anyway - that's the headgasket they installed when they repaired it, so yes it's quite expected that you had this happen again as you said.

doesn't sound like it was overheated so i wouldn't anticipate issues.
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3
^^^Yeah. The engine has never been overheated and it was running strong when I tore it apart.

Anyway the heads came out today. My dad came over had we moved the motor one way then the other. My dad just lifted the intake manifold by hand and pushed the motor a bit while I wiggled the heads loose and dropped them out the bottom. Piece of cake!

I just bought the cam sprocket tool for the heck of it since I figure it will be easy to resell at a small loss. It works great. One of the cam seals actually looks a little wet so I am super glad I took them off even if that oil is just incidental - hard to tell. The passenger cam wheel came off very hard! Holy cow.

The rubber I had in the spark plug tube that was preventing me from removing the spark plug on the passenger head looks like it must have fallen out of my socket. Once we had the heads out we were able to look down in there and fish it out with some effort and remove the spark plug alas :)

Heads go to the machine shop Monday. Hopefully I can start going the other way next weekend installing the mls turbo gaskets and this big pile of new parts I have here but my wife is gone leaving me with the 4 year old so might be tough.

Here is a couple pics.




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eagleeye
glad its coming along.

maybe put 4 year old inside the subaru, with something like a ipad and a warm blanket. a new or favorite movie set on repeat.

this has been the best babysitter since the invention of the VCR.
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U
^Yeah we need to add that to the DIY guide on page two! Honestly though she is much happier in the garage than my 12 year old stepson ever was so I might be okay. SO anxious to get this bad boy back on the road. With the Baja suspension it is just a blast to drive now.
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4
Recently pulled the engine to do my head gaskets. Currently prepping the heads for gaskets. Using 220grit, 400, and 600. Like stated in all wheel drive auto.
Auto part Automotive engine part Engine Vehicle
Auto part Automotive engine part Engine Vehicle
Auto part Automotive engine part Engine
Auto part Automotive engine part Engine


My only question is how do I sand down the surface on the block with the dowel pins? Do I remove them?? Sanding around them doesn't seem good enough to me. If I remove them I guarantee I'll have to throw them out. Any idea?
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When the heads came back they were warped to 5/1000th according to the machine shop so they brought them back to flat. Pressure test on valves came back great. They put the cam seals in when they were done which was nice. This machine shop was real familiar with Subaru heads and has done work for me before on other stuff. When I walked through the front door from forty feet away the guy behind the counter said, "Here comes some Suby heads" - comforting. I didn't have them run the test for cracks since the drivers headgasket was pretty clearly shot and there was never an overheating incident. All cleaned up and they were looking good!

We used the rubberband method to put the heads on quickly and easily. I layed under the car while my dad pulled them up from on top and slapped them into place. The rubberband thing is brilliant! Thanks guys! So clean :)




I sure am glad I took the advice of the seasoned mechanics on here and took them in for R and R. Don't skimp.

I ended up buying a new crankshaft position sensor. The old one came out hard and I didn't want to risk using it again with the metal cap being loose. I'll throw it in the trunk for a spare.

The old water pump looked great with only 72k on it. Probably could have reused it but I didn't. Anybody want it cheap? When I replaced the first one at 100k it was shot!

I liked the gates timing belt and kit. I really think the belt was nicer than the Subaru belt I took off. Everything sure did line up nice when I put it back on.

When I started the car a whole bunch of smoke came out of the engine compartment from every possible place but after a few minutes it settled down. I put it back together Sunday and ran it through a couple warmup cycles in the driveway. Test drove it last night about 50 miles. Drove it to the alignment shop today to have it properly aligned again with the new megan rear links and Baja suspension. A little weight in the back and I had them set it just a tiny bit of toe in for the rear. Everything is dialed in now. They replaced the hanger bolt for the middle of the muffler that I broke when I took it off at no additional charge.

Oil looks clear as day. Using no water. No gurgling in heater core. No bubbling in radiator. Radiator holding pressure. No leaks on the seams. No strange noises. So far everything is holding together nicely! Fingers crossed.

Here is a list of parts I replaced on the 2002 Outback 2.5 MT5 with 172k that I have owned since it rolled off the assembly line and some parts reference numbers for the ones I can still find:

Turbo Headgasket MLS (2) 11044AA642

Intake Manifold Gaskets 14035AA383

Cam Seals (2) 806732150
Rocker cover gaskets (2) 13294AA053
Spark Plug Tube Gaskets (4) 10966AA000

Rocker Cover Washers 13271AA071
Front Crankshaft seal 806733030
Cranshaft Positon Sensor (aftermarket from Adanced Auto ($32.99)
Oil pump O-ring
PVC Valve (oem)
Water Pump (oem)
Water Pump Gasket (oem)
Thermostat (oem)
Gates Lower Heater Hose 18791

Stainless Radiator Clamps (6)
Gates Timing Belt Pulleys and Sprocket and Tensioner TCK304

Gates Serpentine Belt K050350

Gates A/C Belt K040353

I purchased a few tools to make the job easier and because I love tools even if I am the slowest mechanic this side of the equator.

Cam Sprocket Tool

14 mm 12 Point Socket from Sunex (this thing was awesome and left the head bolts looking good as new - get this socket!)

Tekton 1/2 Inch Torque wrench for Crankshaft bolt (my old torque wrench was terrible and this one is killer for the price)


This was by far the biggest job I have ever done on any car ever. Good times. A big job that takes commitment especially if you are solo and inexperienced like myself and have kids and a wife and other hobbies that keep drawing you away (I'd rather be skiing sorry). It helped that I knew the timing belt routine and that my old man came over three times - once to take the heads out of the car and twice to put the heads back in since we did one head one evening and the next the next morning.
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Scubyy said:
Recently pulled the engine to do my head gaskets. Currently prepping the heads for gaskets. Using 220grit, 400, and 600. Like stated in all wheel drive auto.
View attachment 122073 View attachment 122081 View attachment 122089 View attachment 122097

My only question is how do I sand down the surface on the block with the dowel pins? Do I remove them?? Sanding around them doesn't seem good enough to me. If I remove them I guarantee I'll have to throw them out. Any idea?
Click to expand...
I am probably too late but take them to a machine shop to make sure they are flat! Mine were out a little as noted in my post above^
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S
sorry to bring this thread up again guys.

I have a question to my head from 2003 impreza RS with EJ251 engine. never overheat.

I had the head removed (picture), do you guys remove the cam and valves before send to machine shop to check and resurface, or even only cleaning the head gasket mating surface?

If you remove the cam and valves, I am assuming you have to do valve adjustment when installing it back on?

Most DIY or threads talk about head gasket removal and timing belt etc, not much discussion about removing the cam and valves, did I miss something?

Would you guys please give me some advice? thanks!

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The_josh
Leave the cams and valves in and bring to the machine shop like it is
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Josh,

thanks for your quick response, do you know why most of the pictures with people took their heads off show the valves all closed, is that because they removed the cam?

By leaving as it is, I found the four of those valve stick out which machine shop can't machine it.

I plan to call several machine shops to ask tomorrow as today is Sunday. But trying to get a clear idea what other owners doing after they take the heads off.
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eagleeye
here is a good EJ251 pic thread, around post 21 they talk valves,...and @Kitesurfer805 did pull them along with pics.

he opted to do his own head sanding.

in this case he was starting with a Japanese Domestic Market used engine, and cleaning up and doing head gaskets on it,...it was his first subaru ever and it turned out, and last I heard he was doing another car. Edit: but he had done similar work on other makes.

http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/110-gen-2-2000-2004/165417-jdm-engine-swap.html
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The_josh
shinjyo said:
Josh,

thanks for your quick response, do you know why most of the pictures with people took their heads off show the valves all closed, is that because they removed the cam?

By leaving as it is, I found the four of those valve stick out which machine shop can't machine it.

I plan to call several machine shops to ask tomorrow as today is Sunday. But trying to get a clear idea what other owners doing after they take the heads off.
Click to expand...
Turn the can sprocket clockwise til all the valves are closed.
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this:
The_josh said:
Turn the can sprocket clockwise til all the valves are closed.
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eagleeye said:
Uglymoney, From reading enough of these type of threads:

with internal coolant leaks and external oil leaks on a 2002 Outback 2.5 MT5 172,000 miles.

I would think both the block and the heads should go to a machine shop to be ground / trued up, or its going to leak again.

I can understand how you may not have access to a engine crane or even a steel milk crate to put the block on though. (hence why you are doing it in the car).

Hope it works out for you, and this is not a big waste to time and money.
Click to expand...
I know it is a few months later but I thought I would give an update. Turns out this poster was kind of correct. Anyway after I did the headgaskets the thing started up and made a rattling noise for a bit. I don't know if the oil rings stuck or what but the noise quickly went away and it ran great but was going through oil at about a quart every 100 miles all of the sudden and code p420 was ever present. This motor always used some oil, and I'd had p420 before, but not to that degree. Anyway, maybe I was a little optimistic going in to the project that all the new seals and gaskets would fix the oil consumption but instead it went the other way of course. Duh.

So I bought a remanufactured shortblock from Subaru and installed it. Unfortunately the first block the sold me was a bum block (external oil leak, internal water in oil, helicoils everywhere, soft metal or something) so they warrantied it no questions asked and my excellent local dealer took care of me very nicely with replacement parts for the second install. The second short block went in great because I was practically an expert by that point and I am about 1450 miles out with absolutely no oil at all being used and it runs great (as it always did before) with the MLS gaskets and all the other new parts. I did use new head bolts as well because that was too much bolting and unbolting for the old bolts and they were fully stretched. It did make a difference with the tightening procedure with the new bolts - I could totally tell the difference.

Hope this helps some future shadetree mechanic out there and I hope my car runs for a while so I can get my $3k back. I did learn a lot and drink a ton of great beers in my garage and my car with the Baja springs, megan rear links, and KYB's is like a little rally car...especially now that it has a tight motor. :nerd:
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