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2005 OBXT Limited, VF37, STI intake, 5MT
1,607 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Welcome to the (self-proclaimed) BEST guide for replacing the AT Turbine Speed Sensor 1 for the 5EAT automatic transmissions.

If you have found your way here, you are probably praying to the seven sisters that this will fix your problem. Keep reading to find out if this is for you.

*Disclosure* Some of these pictures were taken using a transmission not mounted in the car. You WILL not have this sort of access if replacing in the car.

The Quick and Dirty
P0715 was a broken sensor.
Subaru 31937AA071 is the part number for the sensor alone.

- CEL (check engine light)
- "Sport" mode flashing or illuminated when not in Sport mode
- No shift into 5th gear
- Rough upshifting (1-2, 2-3)
- HARD 2-1 downshift
- Engine codes P0700, P0715

*Number 1 reason* - Broken sensor from trans service or replacement
- Worn sensor
- Split wiring
- Broken ground wire from trans to body

The Evidence
Looking into this, and following the FSM for P0715, I was lead to the broken sensor in question.

Not pretty, but at least we found the problem.

The Fix

The good news is the actual replacement of this sensor is VERY straightforword. Simple bolt-on affair. However, leaning over the engine bay and working around the heater and AC hoses is annoying and can be painful in the long-term. FYI.

The better news is that you don't have to buy the $300+ harness from Subaru like the parts catalog and parts reps will tell you.

Subaru's super-secret part number for the sensor alone is 31937AA071. The retail (at time of writing) was approx $64.95. Shopping around can get you one near $40.

The victim is a 2005 3.0L H6 Outback. The actual replacement is the same, but accessing the sensor is slightly different from the H6 to the turbo H4 models.

Tools Needed
10mm wrench
Flat-head screwdriver
Needle-nose pliers
10mm socket and ratchet

Disconnect the battery (negative terminal only is fine).

H6: Remove the intake/resonator box.
H4 turbo: Remove the intercooler

The sensor is located behind and just below the starter. If looking closely, you can see the bolt head of the sensor.

[From the super side view]

Working carefully, and worming your arms around, unscrew the single bolt with the 10mm wrench.

Squeeze the connector and pull up (gently) to remove the connector from the sensor.

*Extra step* You might have remnants of the sensor remaining in the connector. Using your needle nose, pull the carcass from the connector.

With a twisting action, remove the sensor from the transmission.

*Installation is the reverse of removal*

Installation Tips
- Lubricate the o-ring with the ATF left in the open hole. This will prevent tearing the o-ring.
- Twist the sensor back and forth to help seat the o-ring. DO NOT use the bolt to sinch-down the sensor.

After the Fix
Disconnecting the battery SHOULD have reset any memorized codes for the transmission. If not, have them cleared. Disconnecting the battery will also reset the ECU. Idling and running will be "odd" for a few key cycles. You may also feel some "rough" or unusual shifting from the transmission. This is also normal until it relearns your driving style and how the transmission is most happy.

Drive normally and be sure to exercise the Sport mode. Shift up and down all the gears several times.

Hopefully, this solves your P0715 problem!

Now, go nurse those arms you rubbed raw while maneuvering around the heater and AC hoses.

Happy wrenching!

1 Posts
Thanks for this, but my problem still lives on. I have a 2003 GT AWD Legacy with all the same symptoms.
The code is 'P0715 -Torque Converter Turbine Speed Signal Circuit Malfunction-DTC status current'

I change the sensor as indicated, (didn't see any brokerage in wires) Clear code, hoping all will be ok but I was wrong.
Its been a week since I change the sensor but the hard shifting still continues. I think it's even worst now.. HELP!!

I spoke with three Transmission men and he thinks my problem lies in the transmission-to be specific he said the sensor on the valve body needs changing also. While another said its the whole valve body needs changing. The 3rd said the inside sensor cannot be changed because it linked/comes with a circuit board that shouldn't be mess with.

Who is right or wrong?
Anyone experience or experiencing this problem?
Any advice or solution/suggestion?

Thanks in advance


2006 WX8, 59E
1,129 Posts
Thank you for the "secret" number. Somehow, this part is listed for 5EAT transmissions used on 2.5 l and 3.6 l models, but not on 3.0 l prior to 2008.
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