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If you do not want to get mess or jack up your car, get it. I just did the oil change for my first time, and it was so easy. Just reach out the valve, twist and done. No leaking since it was put on about 6k miles ago, and not since I changed the oil.
 

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Every time I change the oil in a car, the wives kitchen is raided. 3 or 4 sets of food handling gloves. Saves you getting "evil" dirty oil all over your hands.
 

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Thanks for the write-up! Just did my first change and as others have stated, while I happen to have a multi-fit oil filter wrench I didn't need it... though it would definitely be handy if your filter was hot. Didn't need to jack the front up, just went under and the drain bolt released fairly easily so I guess the last change was tightened to spec, though if superman put yours on you could definitely benefit from the extra space/leverage.

One observation... I changed at 10K kilometres as per recommendation from Subaru Canada and my oil was BLACK. I mean FILTHY. We don't drive it hard so this is pretty average wear and tear. After seeing this I am more likely to do my changes at around 8K now, just for some piece of mind. I've done a few oil changes in my day and what I saw was definitely too long an interval.
 

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Do you all sometimes refill the oil without changing it? Our dealer suggested we could do this when needed in between scheduled changes (because the oilindicator flashed
just 4k miles after prior oil change) but I see no mention of refills here. Thanks for the helpful thread- I've never changed oil and this is all a bit daunting
 

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the crush ring is for the drain plug
BUT
if you use a oil drain vacuum to extract the oil
would you ever have to remove, replace the crush ring or just leave in place
i have trouble with my knees getting under the car would be tough
but since subaru charges $68 to change
and subaru is 40 min away and requires an appt
i'm motivated to do my self
but i would use this device or like it

http://www.amazon.com/America-5060-Topsider-Multi-Purpose-Removing/dp/B001445IZ8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1432340732&sr=8-1&keywords=oil+drain+pump

your thoughts are appreciated

also where do you suggest getting the filters? link if possible
 

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Just did the first oil change for the 15 outback 2.5i, it is around 1100 miles now. At the same time, also did the 19mm sway bar. I have to say, the sway bar replacement is ok without jack up the car, and even as slow as me, I finished it under 45 minutes, including lost one of the 14mm nuts and search all over to locate it.
But, for the oil change, a ramp is definitely needed if you want to have some working space. The 15's engine under cover is a whole piece instead of 2 pieces from the legacy (at least for the 2009-2014 legacy), although the oil drain plug area has a hole cut out, but I have to say, I prefer a two piece design. It took me almost two hours to finish.
Mistake: the drain pan is not big enough, so when the drain plug first got loose, I got quite some oil spill around the pan, and spend quite some time to clean it up, including the ramp, the stool and the garage floor, next time I will definitely remember to put some newspaper around, or cut out a large trash bag.
The original plug came loose very easy, I used the torque wrench, but the setting is only 12lb.ft, and the plug got loose! So when I try to put the fumoto drain valve on, although I set the wrench at 31lb.ft, I didn't wait for the click sound of the wrench, I 'm afraid to over tighten the valve.
The filter came off is easy, I used the craftman's universal filter wrench, and I will try to use the garden rubber glove next time when put the new filter on.
It seems 5qt is enough, although the spec says 5.1.
 

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Great write-up. I haven't don't an oil change in several years...both our Outbacks came with two years of maintenance. Other than removing the drain plug, this was probably the easiest oil change I've ever done. I've got the 2013, so with the oil filter up top, I was able to just grab it in my hand, twist, and remove/replace without any tools. I'd bought the cap wrench, and I'll keep it for my wife's 2012.

I swear, an impact wrench is the only tool dealership mechanics use. I had to use a breaker bar on my oil drain plug...probably only partly due to it being severely over-tightened, and partly due to the awkward positioning under there, not being able to put much of my weight into the wrench. I'd ordered Fumoto valves for both Outbacks several months ago, and finally have mine installed. Future oil changes are going to be a breeze.
 

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I have also ordered a Fumoto valve. I expect this valve to be a great time saver by draining oil directly to the container for recycling rather than into a pan and then to the container.

...I swear, an impact wrench is the only tool dealership mechanics use. I had to use a breaker bar on my oil drain plug...probably only partly due to it being severely over-tightened, and partly due to the awkward positioning under there, not being able to put much of my weight into the wrench. I'd ordered Fumoto valves for both Outbacks several months ago, and finally have mine installed. Future oil changes are going to be a breeze.
 

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Just did my first oil change on my 2015 Subaru Outback. This was the third oil change but the first I did myself. I echo some of the previous posters - my drain plug was super tight. I needed a three foot breaker bar to loosen it. And this AFTER I asked the Subaru dealer who did the last change to make sure it was not too tight so I could do the next change myself. :frown2: One observation I would like to share. When I removed the drain plug, the oil shot out like a fire hose! What a mess! I have probably changed oil myself 100 times over the years (including about 8 times for our 2011 Subaru Outback), and I never had this happen before. I am guessing it is because of the drain plug crush washer design. Just a word of warning. And yes, for the first time ever I am buying a Fumoto valve for future oil changes:smile2:
 

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Doing first oil change next week :)
 

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Doing first oil change next week :)
Which is just enough time for you to order a Fumoto valve from Amazon and join the Awesome Subie Owners club. Right now you're a subie owner but the Fumoto means you'll have earned the right to add Awesome.

Just do it. You will need to have or borrow a torque wrench and a 19 mm crowfoot if you want to do it technically correct although you can just wrench it on on the valve body itself and NOT on the hexhead.
 

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Which is just enough time for you to order a Fumoto valve from Amazon and join the Awesome Subie Owners club. Right now you're a subie owner but the Fumoto means you'll have earned the right to add Awesome.

Just do it. You will need to have or borrow a torque wrench and a 19 mm crowfoot if you want to do it technically correct although you can just wrench it on on the valve body itself and NOT on the hexhead.
Eh, I'm not sure I want to do it. I know it makes the job easier, and it's not that I'm worried about the part failing, I just want to do it the "book way" a few times first before I start thinking of deviating from it.
 

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Fair enough although after doing it by the book a couple of times you'll be absorbed by Fumoto like the rest of us. Resistance is futile.

It's actually not a deviation per se because the Fumoto has been given OEM status by many manufacturers around the world. I just got done with a week long trip through the back roads of UT with dirt, gravel and ruts and my Fumoto worked without fail.
 

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Fair enough although after doing it by the book a couple of times you'll be absorbed by Fumoto like the rest of us. Resistance is futile.

It's actually not a deviation per se because the Fumoto has been given OEM status by many manufacturers around the world. I just got done with a week long trip through the back roads of UT with dirt, gravel and ruts and my Fumoto worked without fail.
That's cool. Do you use the short one or the N one? Seems like they have two models now. I may consider it next summer.
 

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Well I changed my oil again last week and installed the Fumoto valve. This time I was prepared for the deluge of oil, so I made much less of a mess. The Fumoto valve went on easily, and it is tucked up into the plastic undercarriage of the car, so I am not concerned with it being damaged from any road debris. As an added precaution I bought and installed the $3.00 Lever Clip to prevent any unexpected valve openings as well as the vinyl hose to attach to the valve nipple. The next oil change should be a snap!
 
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