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Or does the oil come out sufficiently from a cold start?

Getting burned with hot oil sounds bad so I figured I'd double check.


Thanks
 

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2004 Outback Wagon, 2.5, 4EAT, All weather package.
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You should let it run for about 15 minutes or so. The oil will be warm, but shouldn't get hot enough to burn you. This makes it drain more quickly and help drain more crap out of your engine.
 

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Lawn ornament XT
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I try to do it 20 minutes after shutting down from running temp, so it's still quite warm and thin, but not sizzling hot. The same pair of nitrile gloves that keep my hands from getting too oily are also good for a few degrees of thermal insulation.

In truth you can still do a thorough job when it's stone cold, just plan on waiting longer with the drain plug out.
 

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2011 3.6R Premium
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I ran mine for only five minutes from dead cold and it drained well enough up on ramps to where I needed 7.75 qts to get to the full mark on the refill.

I've never had a car that was so easy to change oil, so it wouldn't bother me to change it hot either. Very little chance of being burned if you lift the filter and drain plug upward as their threads release.
 

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2005 LL Bean
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I ran mine for only five minutes from dead cold and it drained well enough up on ramps to where I needed 7.75 qts to get to the full mark on the refill.

I've never had a car that was so easy to change oil, so it wouldn't bother me to change it hot either. Very little chance of being burned if you lift the filter and drain plug upward as their threads release.
If it's stone cold from sitting, I'll run it for a few minutes. The synthetic oil runs pretty thin as it is and seems to flow without much of an issue.
 

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2011 2.5i Steel Silver Metallic, Limited , Moonroof
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If it's stone cold from sitting, I'll run it for a few minutes. The synthetic oil runs pretty thin as it is and seems to flow without much of an issue.
Yeah, thats the thing. If its synthetic oil, it runs out no problem, even when cold. I start mine and run it for a couple minutes, then drain the synth. On my 11 if you let it run too long, you risk cooking your hands and arms on the exhaust replacing the filter.

If it is dino oil, then it does need to be warmed up, but you can always give it extra drain time. And really, if you miss a small amount, it isn't likely to hurt anything, the new oil will dilute any contaminants.
 

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2013 Outback - 3.6R Limited, EyeSight/Nav/MoonRoof/Kitchen Sink.
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15 minutes of run time before a change? In 15 minutes, my 3.6r is up to operating temp.

I never start my cars before an oil change. Matter of fact, I'll let them sit a couple of days so all the crap oil is out of the engine and in the oil pan.
 

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2013 2.5 Limited Pearl White SAP
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What I take away from this:

Toe-May-Toe
Toe-Mah-Toe
 

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2004 Outback Wagon, 2.5, 4EAT, All weather package.
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15 minutes of run time before a change? In 15 minutes, my 3.6r is up to operating temp.

I never start my cars before an oil change. Matter of fact, I'll let them sit a couple of days so all the crap oil is out of the engine and in the oil pan.
The gauge measures the temperature of your coolant, not the temperature of your oil. The oil should not be hot enough to burn you in 15 minutes.

The idea of warming it up is to help that crap flow out of the oil pan, rather than just having it rest there when you drain so it can get sucked back up.
 

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2013 Outback - 3.6R Limited, EyeSight/Nav/MoonRoof/Kitchen Sink.
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The gauge measures the temperature of your coolant, not the temperature of your oil. The oil should not be hot enough to burn you in 15 minutes.

The idea of warming it up is to help that crap flow out of the oil pan, rather than just having it rest there when you drain so it can get sucked back up.
Yeah, I'm not going to take that chance....

Never mind all the crap that is now up in all the engine bits to dirty up your fresh, new oil.

(snark-sarcastic-mode-on)<snark-sarcastic-mode-on>If only there were a way to heat up the oil pan by plugging something into the wall and duct taping it to the bottom of the oil pan!<no-more-snark>. (snark-off) ;) We'd have the best of both worlds!
</no-more-snark></snark-sarcastic-mode-on>
 

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2011 Outback 3.6 Premium
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I either let the car cool for a couple of hours or run it for about 5 minutes before the oil change; longer if the ambient temperature is below freezing.
 

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2013 2.5i Premium CVT
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I typically plan my oil change for a time that I'm arriving home. I've been driving, park the car where I need it, let it sit for an hour or so, then change the oil.
 

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I ran mine for only five minutes from dead cold and it drained well enough up on ramps to where I needed 7.75 qts to get to the full mark on the refill.

I've never had a car that was so easy to change oil, so it wouldn't bother me to change it hot either. Very little chance of being burned if you lift the filter and drain plug upward as their threads release.
Ramps? RAMPS?

I thought the whole POINT of buying a subie was so you could work underneath it without lifting it up? ;)
 

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06 OBW 2.5, 05 Forester, had 03 H6 OBW
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15 minutes of run time before a change? In 15 minutes, my 3.6r is up to operating temp.

I never start my cars before an oil change. Matter of fact, I'll let them sit a couple of days so all the crap oil is out of the engine and in the oil pan.

This would seem to make it a 'drier' start though...
 

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2011 Tacoma TRD Sport Double Cab Long Box
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I always end up changing mine within a few minutes of coming home from somewhere. I've never been burnt by it. Using gloves or a rag help prevent any oil that doesn't make it into the pan from getting on your skin.

Drains really quick when it's hot. I don't have much patience :).
 

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Ramps? RAMPS?

I thought the whole POINT of buying a subie was so you could work underneath it without lifting it up? ;)
My sister's Legacy GT is so low to the ground that the bumper doesn't clear the ramps!

I don't really need them on my Outback, but they give me a little more room to work.

This would seem to make it a 'drier' start though...
My last H6 would sometimes knock for about one second after I changed the oil, but sometimes it wouldn't. Could never really figure out what I was doing that was causing some starts to be drier than others.
 

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2011 2.5i Steel Silver Metallic, Limited , Moonroof
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Ramps? RAMPS?

I thought the whole POINT of buying a subie was so you could work underneath it without lifting it up? ;)
Some of us who are a bit more, shall we say barrel chested, don't fit so well under there! I tried without ramps and burned the **** out of my wrist trying to turn the oil filter off on the exhaust as I couldn't get the right angle. I will say that it is almost there without ramps. Maybe if I lost the extra keg I am carrying around I could do it. :D I can get under fine, but working under there with no ramps is not my cup of tea! And my ramps are the plastic rhino ramps, light weight, take up no room, and easy to setup in the garage. It doesn't help that half the year I am wearing gloves and a jacket because of the cold.
 

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2004 Outback Wagon, 2.5, 4EAT, All weather package.
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Yeah I don't fit under my '04. But I fully admit to being of rather large proportions.
 

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06 OBW 2.5, 05 Forester, had 03 H6 OBW
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...snip...


My last H6 would sometimes knock for about one second after I changed the oil, but sometimes it wouldn't. Could never really figure out what I was doing that was causing some starts to be drier than others.
Perhaps sometimes the pump lost prime (or at least all the oil drained out of the pickup tube) and sometimes not?

I crank for a moment and shut the key off 4 times or so to fill the passages and tubes before allowing it to start.
 

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2011 Tacoma TRD Sport Double Cab Long Box
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Perhaps sometimes the pump lost prime (or at least all the oil drained out of the pickup tube) and sometimes not?

I crank for a moment and shut the key off 4 times or so to fill the passages and tubes before allowing it to start.
Hmm, that's a good idea. Have to change the oil in this one pretty soon so maybe I'll do that.
 
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