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2011 Tacoma TRD Sport Double Cab Long Box
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2,824 Posts
1984 Maxima: absolutely bulletproof car, except the ECM crapped out at about 25,000 miles. after that, literally NOTHING went wrong except for regular maintance items. Went over 150k miles and 20 years before I got rid of it.

1999 Maxima SE: great car but ate brakes like there was no tomorrow and the headlights wouldnt light up anything on the road, worst ever headlights. high beams even worse.
I had a '95 Maxima SE at one time (same generation as your '99). I loved that car. Had over 230k when I got rid of it...developed some weird torque converter/transmission issues and had a lot of rust underneath so its time was up. Never had anything else go wrong with it while I had it, though. It was my uncle's car before mine, and he gave it to me when I got my license since he wasn't driving it anymore. It was quick, too. 190 HP in a 3000 lb vehicle is pretty impressive.

NOT good in the winter, though. It took forever to warm up and it was too light and powerful to do all that well even with studded snows on it.
 

· Registered
2003 Outback Wagon H4/AT - 150k ; 2019 Outback 3.6R <1k
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33 Posts
So, I don’t know if this is the place to be but, I just bought a 2014 Subaru outback and I hate it. My problem is I don’t want to hate it. My daily commute is ~125mil a day. I want to love my car but there are things on this car that make me want to light it on fire. I’ll give you some examples and maybe someone can help. I bought this car because people that own then love them. Maybe all my other cars were just really good.
1.) It gets no ware near the 24-30mil/gal. I’m averaging 23mil/gal (it’s the 4cilander with the CVT transmission )
2.) It sucks in the snow! My last few cars were front wheel drive so maybe this is how all-wheel drive works but it is squarely going straight and its ability to turn is not good. I will give it that is starts from a stop well and once it starts sliding you can steer out of it well but I feel like its always sliding.
3.) The automatic starter from the factory is a joke! Really people laugh at me when I tell them that the car turns off as soon as I open the door.
Anyway, there’s more but let’s see if anyone can help be with these.
Please help I want to love this car.
~Becky

Don't waste your time trying to love your car. I'll trade you my 2003 Outback; it gets better mileage than you are right now. It has Nokian tires to grip all the snow you want and you don't have to worry about the starter switching off after you open the door (psst, it doesn't have one).

Get better tires, my Outback was sliding away when I bought it and that's what it took to realize that no matter how good the car's traction control system is, you still need good tires to complete that package. Afterwards, you may even start loving your car.

Also, on second thoughts, I don't want to trade. I don't like the way the 4th generation OBs look. ;)
 

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13 Posts
I dated a woman from Canada once, worse experience I ever had.

Never date any woman from Canada, they are all terrible.
Well done! lol

As a prospective Subaru owner myself I am interested to hear what he has to say about the SUBE, does remind me of someone getting sick on tequila from drinking too much crappy agave, then spending their life explaining how awful tequila is. Herradura Seleccion Suprema anyone?

Also, I do hate Canada..lol
 

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2014 Outback
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2 Posts
Ok, I need new tiers. That doesn’t say much for the Subaru Company if they sell brand new cars with tiers that can’t do one winter. I also have bad feelings for the company for not explaining their horrible manufactures car starters. I even asked if it was a “normal car starter”. What kind of company has different (in functionality) aftermarket parts then those parts off the show room floor? I’m wondering if any one else has a 2014 and can let me know what they are getting for gas mileage. I have friends with a 2012 and they get 30+ miles per/gal. Is it me or the model year?
 

· Registered
2002 Outback Wagon 2.5L Auto Weather Package
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1,844 Posts
Ok, I need new tiers. That doesn’t say much for the Subaru Company if they sell brand new cars with tiers that can’t do one winter. I also have bad feelings for the company for not explaining their horrible manufactures car starters. I even asked if it was a “normal car starter”. What kind of company has different (in functionality) aftermarket parts then those parts off the show room floor? I’m wondering if any one else has a 2014 and can let me know what they are getting for gas mileage. I have friends with a 2012 and they get 30+ miles per/gal. Is it me or the model year?
Based on the spelling error, incoherence, and incomprehensible composition of your post, I'm gonna say its you.

Tires. What on earth are you trying to ask about 'starters'? When you talk about 'aftermarket' parts, you are talking about things not made by Subaru, so they have no control over them. If your dealer is installing an aftermarket part, it is likely they are cashing in on you (which in fact sounds likely, as you seem easily confused). Fuel economy depends on the drivetrain configuration you chose, where you drive the car, and how YOU drive it. If your friend has a modest commute doing sustained highway speeds with few stops on a well maintained road, with a 4 cylinder CVT, and drives very smoothly and conservatively; and you drive in stop and go traffic on beaten up roads, with a 6 cylinder, and drive like an angry cabby, you're going to have radically different fuel economy.
 

· On the Super Mod Squad
2002 3.0 VDC Wag + 2018 2.5 Leg Ltd
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27,054 Posts
Ok, I need new tiers. That doesn’t say much for the Subaru Company if they sell brand new cars with tiers that can’t do one winter. I also have bad feelings for the company for not explaining their horrible manufactures car starters. I even asked if it was a “normal car starter”. What kind of company has different (in functionality) aftermarket parts then those parts off the show room floor? I’m wondering if any one else has a 2014 and can let me know what they are getting for gas mileage. I have friends with a 2012 and they get 30+ miles per/gal. Is it me or the model year?
you all know what kind of thread this is?

get over it, buy a 2009 or even better, run on over to the chevy dealer buy a equinox and hate it.




 

· Registered
2002 Outback Wagon 2.5L Auto Weather Package
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1,844 Posts
'Why'd you shoot Marvin in the face?'
'You musta gone over a bump or sumthin'.'

Its always the car's fault.
 

· Registered
2000 Outback 2.5L 4EAT
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82 Posts
I'm bored working a night shift humoring myself with this drivel so I'll join.

I grew up in a low income family so dealerships and repair shops were something I never experienced. We fixed our own transportation. Was a neccesity, either that or go without shoes or food. These days I make a pretty comfortable living compared to a large percentage of the U.S. but still, my perspective of reliability and repair costs come down to these two values: ease of repair and cost of replacement parts.

I purchased my OBW much for the same reasons as pretty much everyone else. Economy, inclimate weather, cargo etc. I'm pretty handy with a wrench (given space and time) so I don't fret about doing repairs, no matter how complicated. I walked into the subaru world blind about the brand only knowing that they had a real AWD system, not some funky "apply brakes to slipping wheel" type of electronic trickery.

The car has 230,000 miles on it now. I've replaced a front axle, a couple O2 sensors, normal scheduled maintenance, and performed the dreaded head gasket repair. Having never torn a subaru motor apart before, I was still able to knock it out in 9 hours (didn't even unbolt the motor from the mounts :O) The parts were cost competitive from the dealer compared to discout outfits.
All together, I've put 100k of my own miles on the car and invested about $1k dollars worth of parts and maybe a generous estimate of 24 hours total labor. One of the easiest cars I've worked on. Sounds good to me for a daily driver.

If I want fancy interiors I'll get a luxury car.

Past cars :
'79 Cobra Turbo

'86 Fiero (that went 315k before sold to junk yard, got close to 40mpg. Was a pos but went from point A to point B and felt fast to this high school kid)

'96 Mustang gt (sold with 140k and only replaced a shift fork I broke racing a turbo neon)

2000 F-250 V10 4x4 (over 100k, just had to replace front wheel lockers)

1991 Geo Metro (bought for $500, put 50k miles on it, got rear ended on the interstate, got $2000 for it from insurance)

2004 Cobra (two wheel bearings at 20k miles, but did the 1/4 in 11.7 @ 124. Almost lost to an '05 STI once...)

2007 Corvette (Not one complaint or problem until 58k when it threw the harmonic balancer. Replaced myself, then took to dealer to get ABS code read that Discout Tire caused when I bought new tires. Didn't know it was still under warranty, dealer informed me about the warranty when he saw cosmetic damage to the oil pan. Replaced it for free under warranty since the balancer caused it. Loved that car, more comfortable, wayyyyy better dry weather handling compared to the cobra and better fuel economy compared to the subi.)

Well that burned up some time here at the office. So yea...what was my point?
 

· Premium Member
2005 3.0 R n totaled
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7,417 Posts
J.D. Power says that poor dependability "creates avoidance", with customers more likely to change to a different vehicle next time around if they experience problems with their current car.
 

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2012 4LT Centennial Edition Grand Sport Corvette convertible
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485 Posts
I'll feed the troll.

How about those QUALITY Toyotas? The manufacturer with the highest number of cars recalled. And the fact that all they do is deny they have any problems?

How about those QUALITY Hondas? Have you checked into the crappy automatic transmissions that they won't cover if they are out of warranty, in spite of the fact they know it's a design issue?

How about those German cars that are OK to lease but will bankrupt you with maintenance costs if you go outside the warranty period?

And how about those POS Ferraris? Can you imagine charging $10,000 for servicing one?

Every OEM has their issues. Do your due diligence and go into the deal informed. That's about the best you can do.

Are you full yet, Mr. Troll? :)

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

· Registered
08 OB 3.0R Beaner
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404 Posts
I guess I lost that long post, here is a short version:

OP is correct in some ways.

I've owned dozens of vehicles.

I expect a new vehicle to last well over 200,000 miles without any major problems. My previous car had about 300,000 before being sold and used as a race car.

Lada is still the worst in my book.

Subaru far from the best.

Suby eats some parts like candy, parts can be expensive, dealer network is very poor, finding reliable repair shop almost impossible, most shops do not understand the car, most shops overcharge up and above their regular overcharging when it comes to labor.(seriously look at the quotes for the 20 min wheel bearing change)

Should not be purchased by people not doing their own work.

bottom line, jump through the hoops, do your own research and work, and they can be the cheapest, very good, all wheel drive vehicle out there

and will easily reach 200,000 miles...with some effort.
 
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