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Does your hood move when pushed down in the front?

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2009 Outback, 4 cyl,
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I bought a 2009 Outback new and the hood has popped from the beginning. It gets very exciting when it happens on the highway. Been to dealer , called national office, they tried to fix it a bunch of times and gave up. So I went to dealer this past Sunday and pushed down on all the Outback hoods they had in the lot. Mine moves 1/8 to 1/4 inch when I push on it above the latch. The only hoods that moved in that lot where the 3 - 2009 models they had. What year outback do you have and when you push on the hood does it move? Let me know. A little informal survey here. I took the car to my regular mechanic who is excellent (I do not like dealer service). He told me the cable barely touches the latch and the hood should not move the way it does (Subaru mechanics have adjusted it many times). The movement has caused a notch to develop in the latch from the cable rubbing on it. He also says the safety is not meant to hold the hood down in driving conditions for very long - eventually it is going to pop and folds over the windshield. Next step is to use soem bailing wire of get a chain and tie the hood to the bumper to keep it from folding over the windshield. You can't always pull over and close it on the highway.
 

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'14 3.6R Outback
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I'd be willing to comment if I understood more about what you are asking? Can you put up a video? We talking sheet metal? We talking a 'loose' hood where it attaches to the car?

All hoods on all cars "move" when you push on them, even my father's '76 puck-up and I can stand on that hood.

I do not have noises on the freeway but then I have a '12 so maybe this would not affect me?
 

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ditto what novablue said -- is it sheet metal bending, or is is actual movement up and down at the front edge (above the grill)?

I have an 07, and there's no noticeable vertical movement at the front edge of the hood when it's fully latched and I try to press down and release the hood.

One thing I noticed when I first bought the car (new) was that the hood would not close/latch properly if I lowered it slowly and just pushed down. On all my previous cars, I could lower the hood slowly until the safety catch engaged, and then firmly push down on the front edge to engage the main latch. But not on the Subaru.

The Subaru would catch on the safety latch, no problem, but not the main latch. The dealer technicians all confirmed this, saying that the hood has to be dropped about 10 inches, or pushed down firmly by hand from almost that distance (and with quite a "bang") to get the main catch to engage properly. They all said not to even try engaging the safety catch and then pushing down on the hood, because it could cause a dent -- they learned that the hard way!

I've been using the drop/push method ever since and it works fine. But the hood is tight!

I wonder if you're not fully latching the hood, and it's actually only on the safety catch. That would allow it to move up and down about 3/8-inch at the front edge. But if it's only on the safety catch, the hood would also not be aligned with the fenders at the front when closed this way.

Also, have you checked to make sure all the relevant bumpers are in place? There should be two round bumpers on the cross-bar just ahead of the radiator. The bumpers are about an inch in diameter, and 1/2-inch high, and are located on the cross-bar about three inches in from the fenders. These bumpers help align the hood height so that it's even with the fenders.

Then there's two other smaller bumpers mounted on either side of the hood striker itself (the metal loop attached to the center-front of the hood that engages the latch). These bumpers are slightly conical, about 1/2-inch in height and width. They are just to right and left of the striker on a flat part of its metal base. These bumpers help hold the hood striker tight in the latch, and prevent vertical movement.

If these bumpers are missing, the hood won't be held tight against the latch even when it's fully engaged, and could move up and down perhaps 1/8 -inch.
 

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ditto what novablue said -- is it sheet metal bending, or is is actual movement up and down at the front edge (above the grill)?

I have an 07, and there's no noticeable vertical movement at the front edge of the hood when it's fully latched and I try to press down and release the hood.

One thing I noticed when I first bought the car (new) was that the hood would not close/latch properly if I lowered it slowly and just pushed down. On all my previous cars, I could lower the hood slowly until the safety catch engaged, and then firmly push down on the front edge to engage the main latch. But not on the Subaru.

The Subaru would catch on the safety latch, no problem, but not the main latch. The dealer technicians all confirmed this, saying that the hood has to be dropped about 10 inches, or pushed down firmly by hand from almost that distance (and with quite a "bang") to get the main catch to engage properly. They all said not to even try engaging the safety catch and then pushing down on the hood, because it could cause a dent -- they learned that the hard way!

I've been using the drop/push method ever since and it works fine. But the hood is tight!

I wonder if you're not fully latching the hood, and it's actually only on the safety catch. That would allow it to move up and down about 3/8-inch at the front edge. But if it's only on the safety catch, the hood would also not be aligned with the fenders at the front when closed this way.

Also, have you checked to make sure all the relevant bumpers are in place? There should be two round bumpers on the cross-bar just ahead of the radiator. The bumpers are about an inch in diameter, and 1/2-inch high, and are located on the cross-bar about three inches in from the fenders. These bumpers help align the hood height so that it's even with the fenders.

Then there's two other smaller bumpers mounted on either side of the hood striker itself (the metal loop attached to the center-front of the hood that engages the latch). These bumpers are slightly conical, about 1/2-inch in height and width. They are just to right and left of the striker on a flat part of its metal base. These bumpers help hold the hood striker tight in the latch, and prevent vertical movement.

If these bumpers are missing, the hood won't be held tight against the latch even when it's fully engaged, and could move up and down perhaps 1/8 -inch.
See I'm lazy. I was going to wait for this person to come back before I went in all detail and stuff. ;)
 

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2009 OBXT, 5MT, SWP
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I voted no, but I should note that shortly after I received my '09 this April that the hood could be pressed down some (not deflecting the sheetmetal) so I adjusted the rubber bump stops a little at a time till there was hardly any movement. Hood still latches fine from about a 6-8" drop and lines up fine with the fenders and headlights.
 

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2009 2.5i, H4, Auto.
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One annoyance I have with my '09 is where the located the hood release lever. y foot has caught the release many times and the only way I find out about it is to see the hood bobbing up and down in front of me.

When that happens, I simply stop, get out, open the hood about 6-10 inches and drop it. That is enough to get the main latch to catch.

I actually am in the habit of regular just pulling up on my hood to see if it is fully closed or not.
 

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2009 Outback Limited
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@Hood Popper, I think I know what you are talking about. You are saying that when your hood seems to be properly latched/locked, for some reason it seems to come unlatched,.....right?

For whatever its worth, I have owned a 2009 for about the last 6 months. (It has a steel hood.) Before that, I owned a 2006 XT Limited with an aluminum hood. (I liked that one much better.) Anyway, Several months ago, I noticed that after I thought I properly closed it, it was in fact not completely latched. Happened twice, but not since.
 

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@Hood Popper, I think I know what you are talking about. You are saying that when your hood seems to be properly latched/locked, for some reason it seems to come unlatched,.....right?

For whatever its worth, I have owned a 2009 for about the last 6 months. (It has a steel hood.) Before that, I owned a 2006 XT Limited with an aluminum hood. (I liked that one much better.) Anyway, Several months ago, I noticed that after I thought I properly closed it, it was in fact not completely latched. Happened twice, but not since.
I have an '08 and I have never had the hood pop up but I do the drop from 10-12" and then push down. I learned this with other (non-subaru) cars that I have dealt with in the past.

A year or so ago I did adjust the rubber bumpers up since I noticed the hood fluttering at highway speeds. Since then a nice steady hood.

WB
 

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Mine has never popped even once, and I NEVER drop a hood from any height. I set it down carefully and compress it with distributed pressure from my fingers.

I learned my lesson from british cars, starting with a '67 Rover 2000TC I had in high school. It featured an aluminum hood which had cracks at the midpoint on both edges, from a transmission shop which dropped it. Popped open at, uh, pretty high speed and bashed my roof down around my ears and left me a slit to look through at the bottom.

Went to the junk yard (back when you could find a Rover in one) and they had a pile of hoods - all with cracks.
 

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2008 Outback 2.5XT
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Hood bumpers

:confused:
Also, have you checked to make sure all the relevant bumpers are in place? There should be two round bumpers on the cross-bar just ahead of the radiator. The bumpers are about an inch in diameter, and 1/2-inch high, and are located on the cross-bar about three inches in from the fenders. These bumpers help align the hood height so that it's even with the fenders.

Then there's two other smaller bumpers mounted on either side of the hood striker itself (the metal loop attached to the center-front of the hood that engages the latch). These bumpers are slightly conical, about 1/2-inch in height and width. They are just to right and left of the striker on a flat part of its metal base. These bumpers help hold the hood striker tight in the latch, and prevent vertical movement.

If these bumpers are missing, the hood won't be held tight against the latch even when it's fully engaged, and could move up and down perhaps 1/8 -inch.
Reawakening this thread a bit. I have similar movement, not too severe but it's annoying. I've noticed that I DO NOT have bumpers on the cross bar. I haven't noticed whether or not I have the ones on the hood sticker.

Where would I be able to purchase these? Do they need to be specific to the car? May be a noob question but I have no experience and my car didn't have them when I bought it.

Thanks,

Giuseppe
2008 OBXT 5MT
 

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:confused:

Reawakening this thread a bit. I have similar movement, not too severe but it's annoying. I've noticed that I DO NOT have bumpers on the cross bar. I haven't noticed whether or not I have the ones on the hood sticker.

Where would I be able to purchase these? Do they need to be specific to the car? May be a noob question but I have no experience and my car didn't have them when I bought it.

Thanks,

Giuseppe
2008 OBXT 5MT
Probably a dealer item, or if there's a wrecking yard near you, it should be possible to get them there. For the striker bumpers it probably would be easier to swap the whole striker (two bolts) than to try to remove the bumpers from the wreck without tearing them and get them securely pushed into the striker on your car. The crossbar bumpers, I believe, screw into bolts fitted in the crossbar, so those should be easier.

Are you sure you don't have the bumpers? I can appreciate that the ones on the crossbar might be missing, especially if the crossbar was replaced, but the small rubber bumpers on the striker probably come with the striker so even if it was replaced, it should have the bumpers.
 

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Are you sure you don't have the bumpers? I can appreciate that the ones on the crossbar might be missing, especially if the crossbar was replaced, but the small rubber bumpers on the striker probably come with the striker so even if it was replaced, it should have the bumpers.
I have yet to check the stickers, I will check them tomorrow. However I'm not sure about the crossbar because it shouldn't have been replaced, the car has never been in an accident or anything. I'll have to check with some wrecking yards in the area, should any 08-09 outback work, or does it need to be an XT?
 

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I would think probably any 05-09 Legacy or Outback should work -- I believe they all share the same body.

Attached are pictures of the rubber bumper on the crossbar (there's one on each side), and the rubber bumpers on the striker (which is mounted on the front, underside of the hood).
 

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it is going to pop and folds over the windshield.

This reminds me of the time I borrowed my brother's Chevy to do a quick errand. I didn't ask him to borrow the car (because I never needed to ask) and immediately took it on the highway. Little did I know, he had been working on a custom grille the night before and never got around to finishing it. The part that was missing was the hood latch mechanism.

I'll never forget the terror of having the hood come up and wrap around the windshield while going 65mph in moderate traffic. While the road was curving.

Sheer terror.
 

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My 09 legacys hood moves a little
 

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I recently purchased a 2011 Outback with 61k miles. It had a rattling noise to the front drivers end. I thought it was suspension going bad.

I read this thread and adjusted the rubber bumpers and VIOLA!!! Annoying rattling sound is gone.

:29:
 

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2005 OBXT Limited, VF37, STI intake, 5MT
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:confused:

Reawakening this thread a bit. I have similar movement, not too severe but it's annoying. I've noticed that I DO NOT have bumpers on the cross bar. I haven't noticed whether or not I have the ones on the hood sticker.

Where would I be able to purchase these? Do they need to be specific to the car? May be a noob question but I have no experience and my car didn't have them when I bought it.

Thanks,

Giuseppe
2008 OBXT 5MT
For posterity, the part number for the small, rubber bumpers that mount on the radiator cross member, is 57254AG00A. Fits MANY 2005-14 models.

But they usually go missing after a collision repair. Shops can/will replace the upper core support, but either don't bother or forget to transfer/order new ones during the repair. Rarely do they come apart on their own or tear off, but it can happen.

But the hood should be able to be closed by hand, with light-medium pressure above the latch area. The hood can also "bounce" a touch, but should not rattle. This maladjustment usually goes back to cheap or poor collision repair. Panel alignment is often overlooked even after a very "minor" bump. The hood latch is adjustable, so you shouldn't have to suffer a hard-to-latch hood.
 

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Great to have this old post. My 2011 Outback has had a hood that jumps around at highway speed because there's a bot of play.

I spun the bumpers on the hood so they extend further and now the hood is secure.

Thank you to all who commented with great info!!
 
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