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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Got a CPO 2019 outback. Went to do my first oil change and install a Fumoto valve. I saw something about the plug being easy to strip so I though I was careful. This was a factory plug and had clearly never been touched ( the dealer must have sucked the oil out ) I got a good grip and pulled with all my might and it started spinning (my wrench that is). Was this plug made of lead or pot metal? So I got some special sockets for removing stripped bolts, and these made it worse, tried vice grips and it got even worse. I'm embarrassed to share the photo.

So my plan is to remove the exhaust manifold and oil pan. I will have a replacement pan ready in case I need it. I have found zero videos or resources for doing this but it looks like it will be easy. I did an "oil change" by sucking the oil out with a DIY fluid extractor through the dipstick. Any thing I should be worried about trying this?

34050-F49-0-BB6-4-A44-9827-7074304947-A5.jpg
 

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2018 Outback Limited 2.5
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131 Posts
****, good luck!! I remember my 2017 being very difficult to break free on my first change, but not that bad!

Looks like you might have a fighting chance with a box wrench. If you pull the plastic shield from underneath you'll obviously have a much better time of it. IMO worth exhausting every other option before dropping the pan.

Even if you need to beat on the closed end of a 16mm wrench it would be worth the effort. A few light hammer taps might help break it free too.
 

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2018 Outback 3.6 R Limited
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252 Posts
Before I went crazy taking the oil pan off, I'd try a few different things... mainly heat. Get the drain plug bolt nice and hot, and then a pair of (big) vice grips with enough room to work (not on an angle). The vice grips should be tight enough not to slip no matter what.

It'll come off.
 

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2020 Outback Premier 2.5i
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948 Posts
Surely there are tools that I've never seen, but I've never seen a 6 point combination wrench. IMO the only thing one should put on this is a 6 pt socket, not 12 and not a wrench.

Heat on a reservoir containing oil with traces of gasoline? Will probably work 99 times out of 100. That one time that it doesn't is going to be bad. If you drop the pan you have at least 2 options: drill and bolt extractor or find a big nut with an ID a bit less than the OD of the plug. Weld on the inside of the nut, being sure to penetrate the old plug. Cool it and gun it or wrench it off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yeah, I was about to bust out the welder, but started using my imagination of worst case scenarios, especially with my Mig welder
 

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Outback Wagon, 2004, H6 3.0
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89 Posts
the way it looks. I would still try this:


or this:



You have nothing to lose. Try that.

BTW, this is another data point against dealer service. I had similar experience with my other vehicle. I have been using dealer to change oil (just $40, but you get free coffee and inspection). But then I stopped. The first time I tried to get the drain plug out - it was a major PITA. I think the techs at dealership use impacts to tighten the drain plug (like an extra guarantee that you will come to them for oil service).
 

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2018 Outback 3.6 R Limited
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252 Posts
Yeah I tried a torch and vice grips. It ain't movin'
Sounds like you need to get a little more serious. Vice Grips won't round anything further. Did you try leverage on the Vice Grips? A hammer?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
In my opinion I had one shot at using one of those special sockets, I unfortunately tried a crappy brand from the auto parts store, it just stripped it worse. The metal at this point is so thin and soft that it flexes easily.
 

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2020 Outback Premier 2.5i
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How many miles on this car - continue to suck the oil out for now while waiting for something more serious to happen that you will fix and drop the pan then? Or drop it now and cover up your sin? ;)
 

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2006 OutBean, 2005 LGTW
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1,582 Posts
Before I went crazy taking the oil pan off, I'd try a few different things... mainly heat. Get the drain plug bolt nice and hot, and then a pair of (big) vice grips with enough room to work (not on an angle). The vice grips should be tight enough not to slip no matter what.

It'll come off.
Yeah I tried a torch and vice grips. It ain't movin'
Torching the bolt head will only make it larger, expanding it further, and making the problem worse. Most of the time when you see folks use heat it's to break the bond created by corrosion. Ideally, if it were a fitment issue, you'd heat the parent or surrounding material then cool the fastener you're trying to remove. One of those duster cans turned upside down works well to super cool parts when needed but it's not good to breathe.

You could pull the pan then drill the drain plug and run a tap through it if you have the equipment. Looks like there's a big shoulder on that bolt. If it were me I'd try a monkey/pipe wrench before pulling that pan.
 

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2018 Outback 3.6 R Limited
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Torching the bolt head will only make it larger, expanding it further, and making the problem worse. Most of the time when you see folks use heat it's to break the bond created by corrosion. Ideally, if it were a fitment issue, you'd heat the parent or surrounding material then cool the fastener you're trying to remove. One of those duster cans turned upside down works well to super cool parts when needed but it's not good to breathe.

You could pull the pan then drill the drain plug and run a tap through it if you have the equipment. Looks like there's a big shoulder on that bolt. If it were me I'd try a monkey/pipe wrench before pulling that pan.
Everything expands a bit - the bolt and the nut, or in this case, the threads in the pan. Doesn't make it worse.
 

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2011 Outback Limited 2.5
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277 Posts
This happened to me when I tried to do my sister's oil change. Before me the last one to touch it was the dealer, the next day she brought it there and the removed the plug, gave her a new one and did a free oil change for the issue.

Maybe contact your dealer that touched it last
 

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06 OBW 2.5, 05 Forester, had 03 H6 OBW
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If you heat the bolt and the pan threads are heated by the hot bolt then the bolt will be hotter and the fit will be tighter.
If you heat everything evenly the fit won't be any tighter.
heat the pan more and fit (on the threads) will be looser.

Steel bolt in aluminum you can heat everything and the fit gets looser.

In this case I bet the friction is around the bolt head not in the threads, the washer has seized to both bolt head and oil pan.
Heating and cooling cycles might break it loose.
Crazy careful work with a dremel removing the flange for the washer I bet would work but take forever.

Point it's at I'd probably weld something to it.
 

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06 OBW 2.5, 05 Forester, had 03 H6 OBW
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Oh and this looks like the type of bolt where you look at it and grind the chamfer off a short 6pt socket or off a 6pt wrench.

Hope my 2010 doesn't have one of these!

What is the sealing washer on one of these that likes to get stuck?
 

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2006 OutBean, 2005 LGTW
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One can also drill a shallow recess into a easy access area of the bolt so you can hit it with a punch and hammer to twist it. I've drilled and ground flats into bolts/nuts before and successfully removed them but sometimes space constraints makes it impossible to do so ymmv doing this.
 

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2018 Outback Premium 2.5
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Yep our'18 cpo had a very tight plug(almost stripped it) but luckily it broke free.

You could cut it off, once the pressure is off it will likely spin out.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 

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2005 Outback VDC limited 3.0r
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