Subaru Outback Forums banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2002 2.5L manual transmission Outback Wagon. I replaced the clutch and the rebuilt engine has <5K miles.


The car is making a squealing noise that sounds like a belt slipping. However, I removed both belts and the car still makes the sound. Here are the parameters:
-The sound occurs from 3,000-5,000 RPMs and only when I am on the gas, wide open. It stops when I let off the gas.
-The sound occurs in every gear
-I cannot hear the sound with the windows rolled up, only when they are open (sound coming from outside the passenger compartment)


Thoughts?
 

·
Registered
03 H6 OBW & 06 WRX Sportwagon
Joined
·
17,618 Posts
possible crank pulley separation?

also, check the intake box - maybe not seated well at the bottom where the tabs go in?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
possible crank pulley separation?

also, check the intake box - maybe not seated well at the bottom where the tabs go in?
Thanks for the quick reply. If I had both belts off (AC and Power Steering) there would be no rotational stress on the crank pulley\harmonic balancer. Would the noise still occur in this case?
 

·
Registered
03 H6 OBW & 06 WRX Sportwagon
Joined
·
17,618 Posts
oh yeah, not likely to be the crank pulley with the acc. belt s off!

missed that
 

·
Registered
03 H6 OBW & 06 WRX Sportwagon
Joined
·
17,618 Posts
how old are the timing belt system parts? Did you just do a belt slap or replace tenioner and rollors?

every gear........- what about N ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Thanks again for the responses. I'll answer the questions in one reply:
-The squeal does not occur in Neutral or when the clutch is fully depressed. It only occurs when the engine is under load and the throttle is nearly wide open.
-The squeal pitch does not change when the clutch is slightly depressed
-I checked the air box and everything seems squared away there
-When I rebuilt the engine i did a full replace of all idlers, etc. In fact, the engine I rebuilt came from someone whose mechanic did a timing belt slap job. The toothed idler grenaded and blew the entire engine.
-A bit more background: I originally put the rebuilt engine is a 2000 outback with an automatic transmission. The engine is a 2000. My teenage son crashed the car but the engine was untouched. I then purchased a 2002 subaru with a blown engine and put the rebuilt engine in there. The 2002 was a manual transmission and while I had the engine out, i also replaced the clutch.
 

·
Premium Member
2001 VDC/SC One of a Kind
Joined
·
14,317 Posts
Near WOT increases engine load and air flow. Whistling is air moving across a tight orifice or plane. Squealing can be a worn bearing or a pitch of whistle. Since you posted it only does it at high rpm, I would revisit the air intake system. The silencer, the air filter seat, the connections for the tubing. Another option, if you are sure the air intake tubing is good, is to remove the timing belt cover, since you have the belts off, and run the engine. Add throttle to speed it up to about 3k or so and listen for it at standstill. You could then drive it around the block to add a load. If the noise increases in tone with the timing cover off, you know its timing component related. If not, its elsewhere.

I doubt its the release bearing. It could be the input shaft bearing, MAYBE. I throw this out there because I know many possibilities.

Can you record it and post? Like a youtube video? If I can hear it, I can narrow it down.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Thanks. I'll fiddle with the air intake again later tonight and try to get a recording of the sound. This morning I did find a tear in rubber accordion hose that connects up the air intake to the air box. I'll see if the deal has a replacement available.
 

·
Premium Member
2001 OB LLB H-6
Joined
·
28 Posts
Automatic- drivetrain squeal

2001 Outback 3.0 auto
Squeal/screech a little
Rotated tires and removed rear dust covers from wheels as they were rusty and flailing
Now, vibration at low speed (suspect rear tire here)
BUT squeal in "low" when I let off the gas. Other gears seem fine.
- -
Will re-rotate tires and do a "shake" test of rear axles and drive shaft

No throwout bearing on auto, so that dog won't hunt.

Ideas?
 

·
Premium Member
2001 VDC/SC One of a Kind
Joined
·
14,317 Posts
2001 Outback 3.0 auto
Squeal/screech a little
Rotated tires and removed rear dust covers from wheels as they were rusty and flailing
Now, vibration at low speed (suspect rear tire here)
BUT squeal in "low" when I let off the gas. Other gears seem fine.
- -
Will re-rotate tires and do a "shake" test of rear axles and drive shaft

No throwout bearing on auto, so that dog won't hunt.

Ideas?
Are you holding it in 1 when it does this? High rpms and low load means high vacuum and again, the air intake system will whistle. The seals on the injectors, the air seals on the top and bottom of the injector not the o-rings, could also be sucking in air if they are dried out and brittle and you won't know it unless you test them. Another thing to check is the belt and idler pulleys. The one that is idle and the one on the tensioner. The tensioner pulley is replaceable without changing the tensioner. The alternator can also create a squealing/whining noise. On to drivetrain, what's the condition of the front diff fluid? Did you torque the wheels correctly? There have been issues with wheel torque too low causing wheel shake. A bad alignment will also cause wheel shake. Once a tire gets wear from a bad alignment you can't change the wear and moving the badly worn tire to another position can make a tire issue more apparent because the tire will roll on the ground different.
 

·
Premium Member
2001 OB LLB H-6
Joined
·
28 Posts
Feedback- and thanks for the response.

Air whistle? Mmm. Don't think so but will re-examine. Pulley and idler- yeah. I changed the idler – it was good. Will do the lower one as there is still a 'whine,' although I suspect the bearings on the A/C and power steering.

Re-torqued wheel nuts 90lbs star pattern. Took care of the 'shimmy.' Will rotate rear wheels next. AND re-inflated- wow there were some pressures.

To the trans- OK. What you say makes sense. No load while backing off throttle low gear really whines. 2nd a bit, 3rd barely and top gear not at all. I have changed the trans fluid and upper filter- car runs much better and at highway speeds shifts very smooth.

Am wondering- is there a thrust bearing that causes whine? I ask because cranks, etc. when going into 'unload' tend to want to move. Some roller bearing perhaps?

Will grease all joints/boots/springs as well. Just noticed a 'thunk' when starting out. Could be rear struts/arms perhaps?

Am really getting into this beast. Am also in process of installing heavy tow bar taken from a chrysler van. Got to “build” it- will provide pictures as I build it.

100k+ on repurposed H-6 engine. 210K on vehicle.
Mobile One with Wix filter (NAPA Gold)

Again, thanks for the response.
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top