[Richard Pare]

I'm about to remove the oil pump on my '03 2.5 so that the crank seal can be replaced - may as well do that while I'm replacing the timing belt stuff.


Is there any way, short of dismantling the pump itself, to identify which width oil pump it has? If it has the 7mm, I want to replace it with the 9mm version.


Also, any special trick to removing the timing belt sprocket off of the front of the crank? This one seems to be on rather solidly - with trying to pry behind the timing ring so far, it doesn't want to move, and I do not want to screw up that ring.

 

[patrikman]

Check the part number on it, all NA 4cyls should be the same.

 

[Richard Pare]

Nope - from what I've read anyway - the Gen 2's started off with a 7mm pump, then upgraded sometime to 9mm ( or 10 - I forget which). later 2.5's came with 10's, 11's, and 12's, depending on which version of the engine.


Looks like taking the backing plate off will be easy to get at the rotors and measure them. Want to check their condition anyway,



Got the pulley off using a double wedge arrangement. Took a lot more force than I expected. At least it wasn't due to rust!


And on and on I go!

 

[RoughDiamond]

There is.

When looking at the pump, at the 11 o'clock position, just below the top left bolt hole, there will be a number cast into the face of the pump. That is your pump "diameter".

While this is not Fuji gospel, the trend for oil pumps is as follows:

Non-AVLS, Phase 2 SOHC: 7mm
AVLS, Phase 2 SOHC: 9mm
Non-AVCS, Phase 2 DOHC: 9mm
Single AVCS, Phase 2 DOHC: 10mm
Dual AVCS, Phase 2 DOHC: 11mm

Typically, the more systems that require oil (AVLS, AVCS, Turbo), the "larger" the pump equipped.

If you're looking to "upgrade", I would not go larger than a 9mm on a non-AVLS engine. Too much oil IS a bad thing.

 

[Richard Pare]

Haven't pulled it apart yet to confirm, but the casting number is 9, so it should be the 9mm pump. Strange that when the Vin # was checked, it came up with 7mm. This seems to confirm that Sub upgraded the non-avcs 2.5 sometime mid-stream of production.

 

[Richard Pare]

Oh yea - the 2 seals on the LH side; Considered reusable, or no way Jose?

 

[RoughDiamond]

Oh yea - the 2 seals on the LH side; Considered reusable, or no way Jose?

There should only be one seal/o-ring between the block and pump. The rest of the mating surface is sealed with RTV.

Use new. Those like to harden over time and the dealer should stock a new one. Less than $2.00. And use OE. It's not a standard o-ring that most places try to sell (looking at YOU, Fel-Pro).

But I have a feeling someone's been in there before. IF the block is original to the car, you can confirm with a VIN match on the block. If no VIN or non-matching, I would assume it's not original to the car. I have yet to see a confirmed OE (unchanged), non-AVLS block with a 9mm pump...

 

[Richard Pare]

Yes, there is the o-ring, but also 2 straight, square-section seals that sit in grooves on the LH edge (actually, the RH edge, one up high, and one at the bottom - I keep switching my reference when denoting the side orientation!).



Looking at where they "seal" against, I'm not really sure why they are there - it seems that the only thing they seal against is dirt getting down or up into that open area to the RH side of the pump. and just some silicone would work just as well.


The pump is definitely 9mm, and thankfully the rotors are in perfect condition.

 

[Richard Pare]

One last question on this pump:


Any special trick to removing the crank trigger sensor? It seems that no matter how hard I pull on it, it does not want to pull out. Rotate? yes, no problem. But pull out? No way so far.

 

[miker104]

The square seals on the edges can be reused. The seal that mates to the block (round) is a special Subaru part number and should be replaced with same, not a regular O-ring

10991AA001