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1997, Legacy Outback, EJ25D, Manual
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39 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Like the title says, the engine is seized and I need help splitting the block. Everything is stock and hasn't been split since it came from the factory.

- The crank shaft won't rotate.
- Cylinder 3 and 4 are not seized, but at least one of the first 2 are.

At first I tried to remove the rod caps in hopes to be able to slide the rod+cylinder straight out, but it doesn't seem like I can access both nuts on a rod cap. Also I'm not sure how much good that would do if both piston 1 and 2 are seized. As I separate the block I think I can line up the C clips to possibly remove the wrist pin, but again I'm not sure if that would do much if the piston itself is stuck in the cylinder.

My last thought was that maybe I'd be able to just pull half the block over the 2 pistons on that side, but I'm not sure if that's possible due to tapering?

Any thoughts or suggestions here?

(it looks here like the crank shaft is rusted, but that's just poor lighting/image quality)

 

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On the Super Mod Squad
2002 3.0 VDC Wag + 2018 2.5 Leg Ltd
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27,171 Posts
the only thing that thing needs to be fixed, is some paint. and a trip to the metal recycler.
(250lbs of scrap aluminum gets what today?)

or repurpose it like this one:

 
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1997, Legacy Outback, EJ25D, Manual
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39 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
As stated in the OP the crank's not rusted, it's just the lighting that's making it look like that. It's still oiled. Also I have every intention of scrapping this if nothing is salvageable, but I still want to get to the bottom of it before I do so.
 

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On the Super Mod Squad
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I think a engine like that maybe called "cast aluminum" to the scrappers listing internet prices.
 

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OBW H6 VDC, Tribeca, XT6
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12,385 Posts
So are the cylinder walls tapered to where it wouldn't be possible to pull half the block over 2 pistons?
the block webbing is in the way, massive structural components, taper has nothing to do with it.

split the case as far as it will go and see if you can get to the necessary connecting rod bolts.

these are not very forgiving when attempting to rebuild them.
 

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the block webbing is in the way, massive structural components, taper has nothing to do with it.

split the case as far as it will go and see if you can get to the necessary connecting rod bolts.

these are not very forgiving when attempting to rebuild them.
I question your metalurgicoly like collegiate knowledge.....

felpro in a 1997 paperback I got free that the library was throwing out, says those EJ25D are the greatest engines ever made.

 

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1997, Legacy Outback, EJ25D, Manual
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39 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
the block webbing is in the way, massive structural components, taper has nothing to do with it.

split the case as far as it will go and see if you can get to the necessary connecting rod bolts.

these are not very forgiving when attempting to rebuild them.
Thanks a lot for your reply! I'll make another attempt at that tomorrow. If unsuccessful, I'll unfortunately have to scrap it. I'm thinking that I'll probably have to scrap it either way. At this point, most of what I've done so far has been for first hand knowledge and experience. I don't think that getting this engine to working condition will be that much cheaper than purchasing another engine in better condition.
 

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OBW H6 VDC, Tribeca, XT6
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EJ22 swap

At this point, most of what I've done so far has been for first hand knowledge and experience.
do it! excellent way to learn, just dive in and try it!

if you do rebuild it just grind the shim over buckets rather than replace them when doing the valve clearance. grind the side of the shim that doesn't touch the cam lobe to gain clearance as they're always too tight, usually the exhaust valves, if any. don't bother with the crazy shim dancing magic. assuming it has shims, the 1996's are HLA i think and no adjustment needed.

the cost benefit really doesn't exist for Subaru's in general, and reliability is questionable as well for a first time rebuild, but if you've got time and free labor it's definitely well worth the learning involved.
 

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2002 Outback
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768 Posts
Since you weren't able to turn the crank to line up the piston c-clips to remove wrist pins on all pistons (the one in photo doesn't look like it's lined up close enough to allow pin removal), your only choice is to do what you're doing. If you got the block halves apart that far, there shouldn't be anything else besides the seized pistons keeping it from fully coming apart. I can't imagine that cylinder taper is the problem. Are you using the scissors jack trick at the aft end of the block? If not, the car should have one for changing a tire and if you fit it in the recess in the aft end of block you can put some real force there. Combine this with appropriate thickness wooden wedges at the front of the block. If you can pre-load the block in this way, then try wacking the offending piston tops with another piece of wood and hammer. I would think a few repeats of the above would get the block halves apart. Unless you damage the block half mating surfaces during this process, I see no reason you wouldn't be able to have the block re-bored to 0.5 mm over (0.020") and use over-sized pistons which are readily available. It would be a good idea to have the crank checked for straightness after a seize event too. It would be (probably) cheaper and easier to just buy a rebuilt short block but if you aren't in a rush and have a machine shop you trust, these engines aren't that difficult to rebuild. Just be sure and down load the factory manual and RTFM...
 

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